餐厅: Alinea, Aviary, Next (Chicago)
经验：Achatz Depot（里士满）；查理·特罗特（Charlie Trotter）（芝加哥）；法国洗衣（扬特维尔）；三人组（埃文斯顿）
Education: Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park
As much a thought-leader as he is a revolutionary chef, the name Grant Achatz carries serious weight in the world’s most progressive kitchens. But long before he opened the Chicago temple of modernist cuisine, Alinea, he was just a six-year-old dishwasher at Achatz Depot—his parents’ eatery in Richmond, Michigan. Achatz worked in family restaurants through high school, eventually enrolling in the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. After graduating in 1994, Achatz spent four months at Charlie Trotter’ s in Chicago before leaving to eat his way through the three-Michelin-star restaurants of Europe. When he returned to the States he took a commis position at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry—eventually working his way up to sous-chef. After four years with Keller, Achatz returned to Illinois as executive chef of Trio. His work at the Evanston restaurant earned him a Best New Chef nod from亚搏电竞食品和葡萄酒亚搏电竞2002年。两年后，阿查茨（Achatz）在Alinea打开了他的藻酸盐和抗grid虫。他回忆说：“在我们开幕之前，我打了一次员工会议，并说：‘我们需要使这家餐厅成为该国最好的餐厅，因为其他任何事情都是不可接受的。’“那是我的目标，但我永远不知道我们会打它。”现在，厨师不断扩大的大风城市统治还包括最先进的鸡尾酒酒吧鸟舍，其次是每隔几个月重新塑造自己的餐厅（以前的“季节”专注于1906年和童年的巴黎食品）。亚搏电竞
As he put the finishing touches on The Hunt, his forthcoming game menu at Next, Achatz sat down with亚搏电竞食品和葡萄酒亚搏电竞to talk about acid, oysters and why experimental theater could be the future of fine dining.
What recipe are you most famous for?
我的黑松露爆炸 - 当我拉着冰冷的鸭子果子时，我仍在法国洗衣店时，我为这道菜做出了想法。皮肤和骨骼中的天然明胶已经形成了基本上是鸭子的东西。我看着它，有一个关键时刻之一。我滚下面食制作馄饨，在里面放了一点鸭凝胶，将其扔进水中，当它出来时，馅料液化了。当我在三人组尝试这项工作时，我再次尝试了[这次使用]黑松露果汁与明胶的填充。从本质上讲，这就是我的工作。我们今天仍然在阿里纳（Alinea）服务黑松露馄饨。所有标志性签名菜肴都应该做的事情是这样做的：它将惊喜元素与舒适元素结合在一起。
哪种菜肴真正讲述了您作为厨师的故事？
餐厅的“热土豆,冷土豆”举行es collaboration, which has always been incredibly important to our cuisine. I went to Martin Kastner (who designs the unique service pieces at Alinea) and told him that I wanted to make a course that was hot and cold at the same time. I asked him to help me create a piece that would allow for that. He came back to me a few weeks later with a tiny paraffin wax bowl the size of an oyster shell. We put cold black truffle-potato soup in the bowl. Then we put a stainless steel pin through the wax and stuck a hot potato sphere on the pin. It was such a simple design, it was brilliant. It also encouraged guest collaboration. They have to pick it up. They have to pull the pin like a grenade to release hot into cold. They are involved in making this a complete course, which I love. Alinea has always been about getting people involved.
The second dish would be my pheasant with burning oak leaves. To me this dish really symbolizes the way a chef can tell a story with his food. I grew up in Michigan in the ’80s and at that time it was common in the autumn to rake the leaves, then light the piles on fire. So the smell of burning oak leaves reels me back to my childhood. That smell is Halloween and hayrides and trick or treating. When we were brainstorming a fall menu around 2006, I thought, Why can’t emotion become a seasoning? We took an oak branch with the leaves still attached and used it like a bamboo skewer, piercing a piece of pheasant, apple and a roasted shallot and then tempura frying it. We light the leaves on fire and blow them out so that when the dish arrives it is still smoldering. The entire thing is conceived around my childhood: Pheasant hunting with my father, apple picking with my family…it’s nostalgic.
Finally there’s a presentation at the end of dinner in which we plate directly on the surface of each table; it’s a very significant expression of the way we think. Artists can paint anywhere from a tiny piece of canvas to something as big as a room. As chefs, why are we confined to the dimensions of a plate? We came up with a food-safe washable silicon sheet that acts as a tablecloth that we roll out for the very last course of the meal. Two chefs come out from the kitchen with ramekins of ingredients and they plate the final course on the table surface in front of guests. We bring the kitchen out to the dining room, just like old-school French places did.
What is your favorite cookbook of all time?
The French Laundry Cookbook。When it was published [in 1999] it was way ahead of its time in terms of the format, its physical size, the photography, the layout and the recipes. When you pick up the book you know right away, even if you’ve never been to the restaurant, what The French Laundry is all about. There is a recipe in that book, the Oysters and Pearls, that is my favorite dish of all time. Ever. The first time I tasted it was one of those moments in my career when I thought, “This is why I am cooking.”
What is one cooking technique that everyone should know?
我会和布兰奇一起去。很多人在烹饪蔬菜时不了解适当调味水的重要性。水需要用盐调味，或者在某些情况下是糖。如果您不立即食用蔬菜，当它们出来时，它们需要震惊 - 直接进入冰水并以快速的方式冷却。您不能将某些东西扔入160度的水，将其拉出并让它坐下，然后想知道为什么它会变得糊状和棕色。
您的秘密武器成分是什么？
I’d say sherry vinegar. I think there’s a lack of appreciation for acid in our food, whether it be lemon, lime or vinegar. Just a drop here and there elevates flavors in a way that most home cooks just don’t understand. Sherry vinegar has a nice balance of those caramelly brown flavors and its more versatile than a white wine or red wine vinegar.
Name one indispensable store-bought ingredient.
我必须和干面食一起去。它非常方便且易于准备。在那里涂一丝黄油，盐和黑胡椒粉，您吃一顿饭。
If you could invest in a dream project, what would it be?
我会创建一家与主题相似的餐厅Sleep No More(an elaborate and participatory immersive theater production ofMacbethstaged in a New York City warehouse). Just likeSleep No More, we’d choose a theme and offer a sensory experience that involved actors, exploration and food in a giant space with many, many rooms. That would be my ultimate restaurant experience. You wouldn’t go in and sit down at a table. You would walk through a space touching, smelling, hearing and tasting.
What ingredient will people be talking about in five years?
如果我知道那种成分是什么，我已经在使用它！但是我确实认为味o可能会启动。美国公众主要认为味o是普通的超市东西，基本上只是盐。但是，有很多味o的味道有很多层的风味和特征。红色味o的深度很高。这就是我认为人们会倾向于的。
What do you eat straight out of the fridge, standing up?
Pickles! Vlasic dill pickles. They are acidic, salty and cold out of the fridge. I just like anything pickled. I’m all about vinegar and salt.
What is your go-to cocktail?
Probably a margarita. A drink that’s all about salt and acid. Shocking. But I love negronis and daiquiris, too. They are hard to make well even though they contain only three ingredients.
If you were going to take Anthony Bourdain out to eat, where would you take him and why?
I would take Bourdain back to Alinea. He came around 2008 and said some complementary things about me. But he also made it very clear that he didn’t like his dinner here. I think he would get it more if he was with me. I wouldn’t want to manipulate him into liking it, but I would want a chance to explain to him why we do the things we do.
WhyBecause his imaginative combinations, such as foie gras with roasted bananas in a chocolate-sweet onion sauce, aren't just risky; they're delicious, too.
BornSt. Clair, MI, 1974.
EducationThe Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY.
经验查理·特罗特（Charlie Trotter's），芝加哥；法国洗衣店，加利福尼亚州扬特维尔
他描述他的食物如何亚搏电竞渐进式法国美食具有全球影响力。“你可以说'大脑'，但这太多了。”
Most exotic item on his menuRosemary vapor. "We pour boiling water over rosemary sprigs at the table, so it perfumes the air and adds a new level of complexity to our lobster dish."
Culinary hero托马斯·凯勒（Thomas Keller），法国洗衣店的厨师。“他担心一切，从食物的调味料到是否有垃圾包装器在花园里乱扔。”亚搏电竞
最喜欢的童年食品亚搏电竞Walleye. "My family lived on a river near the Great Lakes, and we used to go fishing a lot."
当地出没Potbelly Sandwich Works. "They have the best sandwiches in the world. I like the Wreck, a sub with everything on it."
Bedside readingThe Man Who Ate Everythingby Jeffrey Steingarten,厨师之旅by Anthony Bourdain.
Favorite kitchen toolSilicone-coated parchment paper from J.B. Prince (www.jbprince.com), which Achatz uses to make the tuiles that decorate some of his savory dishes.
对他的名字最常见的错误发音嗯。（应该发音为Ah-Kitz。）
About his recipeDescribing his watermelon salad with shrimp, Achatz says "I think shellfish benefits from a little sweetness." He suggests draining the fruit in a colander after you cut it, for a cleaner presentation.
Won Best New Chef at:Trio, Evanston, IL (closed)