丹尼尔·布鲁德（Daniel Boulud）

F&W Star Chef

1988年丹尼尔·布鲁德（Daniel Boulud）是F＆W有史以来最佳新厨师的成员。今天，他是烹饪界真正的巨人之一。他分享了纽约的顶级景点，他最喜欢的食谱以及如何以DB方式制作炒鸡蛋。

What’s your most requested recipe at Restaurant Daniel, the one dish you’re most known for?
我们一直在丹尼尔（Daniel）餐厅更改菜单，但是20多年来，我已经做到了paupiette of sea basswrapped and sautéed in a crisp layer of potatoes, set on a bed of leeks with a red wine sauce. For our 15th anniversary in 2008, when we redid the decor, my chef came to me and said, “Daniel, you are redoing your restaurant, we have a new beginning—we have to get rid of the paupiette. We are sick and tired of cooking it.” It felt like they were ripping my heart out! But I knew he was right, so I agreed. I still loved the combination, so I proposed we keep one dish on the menu with those same four ingredients—sea bass, potatoes,leeksand red wine—with a new interpretation every year. The fish isn’t wrapped in potato anymore, but we might do a pommes lyonnaise, and bake them in sheets with a fondue of onions and a custard of leeks with fried leeks on top. Later, after F&W Best New Chef 2007Gavin Kaysenhad taken over Café Boulud, he asked me for permission to put the original paupiette on his menu. So now it has a second life at Café Boulud, and a new, eternal life at Restaurant Daniel.

What’s your favorite cookbook of all time?
Les Recettes Originales de Robert Laffont。这是由出版商Robert Laffont创作的大约12到15本食谱，由所有在1970年代重新定义法国美食的法国厨师：FrédyGirardet，Roger Verger，MichelGuérard，几乎每个人都做了。这些书的格式都是相同的，制作得很好。有些被翻译成英文，例如吉拉德（Girardet）和瓜拉德（Guérard）。但是我在法国长大，是70年代的年轻厨师，那是我收集的第一本书。一旦我成为Le Cirque的厨师并有了一些钱，我就购买了更昂贵的第一版和古董。但是这些书将我带回了我的英雄：雅克·马克西默（Jacques Maximin），乔治·布兰克（Georges Blanc），他们让我扎根于法国美食。我已经随身携带了40年。

What’s one technique everyone should know?
How to make scrambled eggs the DB way. Again, this is all about slow: A slow stir over a double boiler. You don’t want the water to touch the bowl, you just want the steam. I prefer a glass or ceramic bowl to a stainless steel double boiler.

首先，我会买松露，然后将其放在一个大罐子里，大约六个无裂鸡蛋。我将罐子放在冰箱中约四到五天，以便鸡蛋通过贝壳吸收香气。然后，我会恢复鸡蛋，将它们从冰箱中取出，让它们达到室温。同时，我将几汤匙黄油切成很小的（1/8英寸）的立方体，并将它们保持在冰箱中。然后，我将鸡蛋用少许盐和胡椒粉搅拌，然后将其倒入准备好的双锅中。我慢慢搅动它们，花时间。一旦他们开始凝结并变成乳脂状，我会搅拌冷黄油，以减慢烹饪的速度。将鸡蛋和黄油混合在一起并呈现像稀饭一样的质地，我会用一点细香葱结束，剪切得很好。

然后，我将拿一块1英寸厚的白面包，去除外壳，将面包切成三个1英寸厚的警棍。I’ll butter the bread, not the pan, and then toast them on all four sides in a pan, until they color all four sides, and are perfectly crispy on the outside, warm and tender in the middle, and then serve that with my scrambled eggs. Without the truffle—and you don’t need one—it’s a very affordable luxury.

您在纽约没有错过的地方是什么？

I like to take friends to hear some real, old-school New York cabaret, after hosting them for dinner at one of my restaurants. I often eat at my own restaurants, and I have a different favorite nightclub near each one—there’sBemelmans Bar在CaféBoulud旁边的Carlyle Hotel；费恩斯坦的在丹尼尔餐厅旁边的摄政处，Algonquinis right next door to DB Bistro Moderne.
I live on the Upper East Side, so we’ll often do a museum day at the见面,Frick, or妈妈。大都会可以自己占用一天。芝士是如此的和平，而MOMA是必须的 - 它的收藏是无与伦比的。
For brunch it’s fun to go to Brooklyn. Last time my parents were here—they’re 84 and in great shape—I took them toRoberta’s。That was very cool, but perhaps the best moment was when my father noticed the pizza oven. At home in France, since he retired as a farmer, we turned the chicken coop into a pool area with a big pool house and a wood oven to make pizza. At Roberta’s, my father spent half an hour watching the cooks, to see how they made pizza and to see what else they cooked in there. He was passionately interested in that.
我喜欢去听一些爵士乐。可悲的是，我最喜欢的爵士俱乐部已经关闭，但是Red Rooster现在已经Ginny’s Supper Clubin the basement; I like that place very much.