Our Wine Editor Picks the Bottles for the Wine Bar of His Dreams

有时，将一个小问题置于视角上需要一个很大的问题。进行正在进行的葡萄酒世界战斗亚搏电竞自然与传统葡萄酒亚搏电竞。This sometimes vitriolic black-and-white commentary, which can be boiled down to “natural wine is flaw-ridden mouse-cage-smelling crap” versus “conventional wine is chemically steroided soulless corporate garbage,” really started to seem a bit...oh, beside the point back when the coronavirus upended everything in March.

天然葡萄酒背后的基本宗旨本质上是有机种植的葡萄，并且尽可能少，没亚搏电竞有罚款，没有过滤，没有商业酵母，没有机械收获，也没有硫酸。他们经营着从干净和原始的范围，到多云和脸色的时髦。有些人发现他们是一个近乎宗教的呼吁。有些人觉得这是对他们认为是葡萄酒的一切的威胁（许多人认为他们听起来很有趣，很好奇尝试它们）。亚搏电竞Twitter是ID坑，我们只有两到三个星期才进入大流行，直到两侧更加不宽容的人再次互相吹向导弹。

但是为什么所有的戏剧吗?是什么自然wine that’s so polarizing? Personally, I’d say that it’s because it calls into question a crucial, taken-for-granted assumption about wine: How it tastes is more important than how it’s made. (The term “natural wine” itself also annoys some people, as it implies that all other wine is somehow unnatural, which may be why “minimal intervention” and “raw” wine have gained ground as alternative names.) Regardless, all this ruckus has happened without there actually being that much natural wine around. Zev Rovine, one of the top importers of natural wine, says, “Even if you took a big estimate of the sales for our whole community, I’d max it out at like $70 million in wholesale revenue [in the U.S.]. What percentage is that of the wine industry? Way less than 1%, right?” In fact, “way less” is an understatement: The number Rovine suggests isn’t 1% of U.S. wholesale wine revenue, but onetenthof 1%. It’s minuscule. Yet the amount of press devoted to natural wine has been huge, and sales have been skyrocketing. I’m reminded of Hermia in仲夏夜之梦: “And though she be but little, she is fierce.”

我在做世界末日大流行隔离时正在考虑的另一件事是，我多么激烈地出去喝酒。（待在喝酒？我有很多东西）。毕竟，葡萄酒的精神是社交的。亚搏电竞亚搏电竞葡萄酒使人们聚集在一起；那是它的伟大魔法财产。和天然或传统的，它与不宽容并不融合。我认为这尤其是为什么我错过了在布鲁克林这样的地方闲逛四骑士。尽管这对于天然葡萄酒迷来说是一个不合适的目的地，但葡萄酒总监贾斯汀·奇尔诺（Justin Chear亚搏电竞no）的名单却在营地之间取得了平衡。他说：“当然，我们喜欢的大多数葡萄酒恰亚搏电竞好是非常不干预的主义者。”“但是，如果我收到一个非常有趣的传统巴洛洛的报价，人们会真正喜欢的，我会带来。我们不是教条的。我们是味道优先的地方。”

Open-mindedness is the operating principle for most forward-looking wine bars, if that’s even the right thing to call this movement of small, sommelier-founded (or wine-forward) places. At Ungrafted in San Francisco, which Rebecca Fineman, a Master Sommelier, opened with husband and fellow sommelier Chris Gaither, the list is reversed from The Four Horsemen’s: Natural bottles are the minority rather than the majority. But there are plenty of both. What Fineman looks for, she says, is “a mix of interesting and off-the-beaten-path, with some things that are very classic. I get frustrated by the polarities I see in the industry. You go to a Michelin-star restaurant, and all they have is $30 by-the-glass famous names; then you go to a cool wine bar, and everything on the list is natural-funky and $10 a glass. There needs to be an in-between.”

Here’s to the in-between. Personally, I’ve long had a love-hate relationship with natural wine. The philosophy behind it—organic, unmanipulated, small-scale, real—makes absolute sense to me. But often the wines leave me cold. To take one example, the yeastBrettanomyces，或者布雷特（Brett）被广泛认为是酿酒缺陷，在某些天然葡萄酒亚搏电竞中很常见。对我来说，大量的布雷特剥夺了葡萄酒的特征。亚搏电竞“绵羊的屁股”不是风土。另一方面，我的朋友爱丽丝·费扬（Alice Feiring）撰写了比我知道的任何人更多的关于天然葡萄酒的文章，但并不介意适度的布雷蒂葡萄酒。亚搏电竞正如她说的那样：“如果闻起来像一只绵羊在野外的您附近，那就没问题了。如果就像一群羊群在一个被木炉暖和的小木屋里，那大问题。”为之奋斗吗？我们开玩笑说我们的差异。这样看：用奶酪，一个喜欢Époisses的人，另一个喜欢Gruyère的人甚至都不是一场辩论。

Besides, as Haley Fortier, the 2019 F&W Sommelier of the Year who owns Haley.Henry in Boston, says, “People tend to have this conception in their heads that if a wine’s natural, it will taste really dirty and funky and ‘natty.’ But there are lots of really clean natural wines, too. In a way, the situation is very similar to Riesling. So many people assume that all Riesling is really sweet. But if someone wants a white that’s totally dry and crisp, Riesling’s often the first place I go.”

Miles White and Femi Oyediran, also 2019 F&W Sommeliers of the Year, co-own Graft Wine Shop in Charleston. They also serve conventional and natural wines side by side. White says, “Look, you can have funky new-age stuff next to traditional stuff, and they don’t butt heads at all.” Oyediran adds, “At the end of the day, it’s either good or it’s not. I don’t care if it’s natty or if it’s conventional; if I taste it, and it’s fresh and delicious, you’re in.” Brent Kroll, at Washington, D.C.’s Maxwell Park, puts it succinctly: “Why not just have wines for everyone?”

但是什么是a wine bar, and is that what most of these places are? Chearno says, “When we opened The Four Horsemen, we used the term ‘wine bar’ a lot, but calling ourselves a wine bar was really underselling our kitchen team wildly.” Now The Four Horsemen offers a full dinner menu, with dishes like veal sweetbreads and black trumpet mushrooms with truffle jus. Matt Cirne, who runs Verjus in San Francisco, says, “We’re sort of acave à manger—a good wine shop where you can also come and eat. We wanted a serious culinary program, but not all the trappings of a conventional restaurant.” I suppose you could call these places “wine-focused, sommelier-founded, ambitious but casual, small-but-not-always restaurants/bars,” but that doesn’t exactly come trippingly to the tongue. Many if not all of them were opened by sommeliers, so maybe instead we should just follow Kroll’s advice: “Why not just call it a somm-driven restaurant?”

当我写这篇文章时，我实际上无法重新审视我最喜欢的地方 - 每个人都关闭了。因此，相反，我继续脑海中建造了一个酒吧。亚搏电竞我写了一份清单，上面写着自然和传统葡萄酒，所有这些葡萄酒都代表具有独特视野的酿酒师或小葡萄酒。亚搏电竞我想要谈论它们来自亚搏电竞哪里以及制作谁的葡萄酒。我也想要味道很好的葡萄酒。亚搏电竞从本质上讲，我注意了Cirne所描述的对他的酒单的石蕊测试：“如果这是菜单上的成分，厨师会买吗？”亚搏电竞我从全国最喜欢的Somm亚搏电竞驱动餐厅的清单中抽出葡萄酒，并在这里推荐了20多岁的葡萄酒。我决定称其为Isle还有另一个，这几乎是我当时的心态。Now, with luck, we’re all going out again, ending the day with a glass or two with friends at our favorite places, but even if we aren’t, it’s still possible to have the wine bar of your dreams in your home.

这些从我最喜欢的酒吧清单中汲取的许多葡萄酒清单中的选亚搏电竞择包括来自整个频谱的瓶子。

NV Juvé & Camps Brut Rosé Cava ($17)

尤维与营地成立于1796年，是西班牙起泡酒卡瓦（Cava）的首选。亚搏电竞此桃红版本是由黑比诺，不是彭尼兹地区的传统葡萄之一，而是美味。

2019年黑皮诺的露西·罗斯（19美元）

Lucy is a side project for the Pisoni family, one of California’s top Pinot Noir growers. It’s full of red fruit and citrus peel notes, and a portion of the proceeds from every sale goes to breast cancer research.

2019Clos Du Tue-Boeuf Rosé ($20)


Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat were there at the start of the natural wine movement in the early 1990s. Their rosé, made with organic grapes, is refreshingly herbal and savory.

2019Arnot-Roberts加利福尼亚ROSé ($25)

Touriga Nacional Grapes原产于葡萄牙，是这种雄心勃勃的加利福尼亚玫瑰葡萄酒的核心。它明亮的樱桃水果提供香料和花卉细微差别。

2018Agnès和RenéMosseMoussamoussettes Pétillant Naturel（30美元）

“We poured this rosé pét-nat when we opened, and people loved it,” Trent Stewart, of Golden Age Wine in Birmingham, Alabama, says. Cloudy and gently fizzy, its flavors recall tart strawberries.

NV香槟德拉莫特·布鲁特（60美元）

Delamotte is made by the same team as Salon, one of the most sought-after (and pricey) Champagnes on the planet. It has a refined balance and layers of tree fruit and brioche.

2018Köfererhof Kerner ($23)

Kerner, an unusual variety created in 1929 by crossing Schiava (a red grape) with Riesling, is grown widely in Germany. But many of the finest versions—like this focused, tangerine-scented wine—come from Italy’s northern Alto Adige region.

2019Craggy Range Te Muna Road Vineyard Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc（$ 27）

Craggy Range的长相思是新西兰风格的一个典范：超级鲜活，新鲜的葡萄柚和百香果的味道，再加上淡淡的胡椒味，不会像某些人一样转向绿色胡椒 - jalapeño土地。

2018Louis Michel＆Fils Chablis（27美元）

华盛顿特区麦克斯韦公园（Maxwell Park）的布伦特·克罗尔（Brent Kroll）说：“路易·米歇尔（Louis 亚搏电竞Michel）是一名chablis先驱，他在1960年代放弃了橡树。”“它有绿色苹果，木瓜和柠檬的经典笔记，并带有酸面团的味道。”

2018Foradori Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco($32)

Elisabetta Foradori尽可能多地避免干预，并制造意大利一些特伦蒂诺地区最好的葡萄酒。亚搏电竞由于葡萄在皮肤上发酵了一个星期，这种酥脆的花朵白色边缘朝橙色的边缘。

2017Occhipinti SP68 Bianco（$ 35）

Arianna Occhipinti是天然葡萄酒世界的明星。亚搏电竞从她的葡萄园中，她的诚意 - 仔细地使用这个词，因为她会尽可能避免干预 - 淡淡的葡萄酒，这些葡萄酒谈到了西西里的土壤。亚搏电竞这种Muscat-Albarello混合物既是土壤又花香。

2018olivierrivièrela bastid($38)

法国人在西班牙最传统地区里奥哈（Rioja）的中心制作自然葡萄酒？亚搏电竞为什么不？正如Verjus的Matt Cirne所说：“它的口感很广泛，但尽管酿酒量相对氧化，但仍然有大量的切割和verve。”亚搏电竞

2018 Linginga Franca Avni Chardonnay（$ 40）

侍酒师拉里·斯通（Larry Stone）首先在餐馆工作，然后经营酿酒厂，然后前往俄勒冈州打开自己的酿酒厂。亚搏电竞这种淡淡的蜂蜜味柑橘白色是他经常与他一起工作的几个不同葡萄园的混合物。

2018Wittmann Westhofener Riesling Trocken ($50)

Though a bit pricey, this apricot-scented, stony, totally dry German white still counts as a value since it’s made with fruit from younger vines in the famed Morstein and Brunnenhäuschen grand cru vineyards.

2016年Cardedu Caladu Canonau Di萨丁岛(19美元)

阿拉巴马州伯明翰的特伦特·斯图尔特（Trent Stewart）定期倒入这种天然葡萄酒。亚搏电竞“很美味 - 您在深色的烤樱桃风味中得到了撒丁岛的热，它有一些时髦的地球，但它很干净。”

2018RaúlPérezUltreia Saint Jacques Tinto($20)

Raúl Pérez is one of Spain’s most acclaimed winemakers, and this old-vine red, with its supple blueberry-cranberry notes, is, as Félix Meana of Cúrate in Asheville, North Carolina, says, “a perfect yet humble representation of everything that is exceptional about the wine tradition in Bierzo.”

2017La Stoppa Trebbiolo Rosso($25)

Elena Pantaleoni, owner of this historic estate in Emilia-Romagna, is one of the most eloquent producers of natural wine around, and her wines are equally expressive. This Barbera-Bonarda blend from her youngest vines has earthy, leathery aromas that lead into vibrant dark-berry flavors.

2018 Comando G La Bruja deRozas（30美元）

西班牙年轻的酿酒明星丹尼尔·兰迪（Daniel Landi）和费尔南多·加西亚（F亚搏电竞ernandoGarcía）之间的这个联合项目帮助将马德里以西的山区格雷多斯（Gredos）置于地图上。他们专注于优雅的芳香古老的格林纳阿纳切斯（Grenaches） - 这是他们最大的yabo.com , is an excellent introduction.

2018Pax North Coast Syrah ($30)

Matt Stamp says, “I like this wine for its high-toned, aromatic, peppery wildness.” And indeed you should—it’s a finely tuned California Syrah from a top winemaker that’s great for drinking right now, and it comes at a very fair price.

2016Uccelliera Rapace（$ 35）

As Brent Kroll says, “Hey, Super-Tuscan drinker? Meet Brunello lover.” He adds that this blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet has enough tannins to accompany hearty dishes, along with “classic tea-leaf notes and well-integrated oak flavors.”

Cain Vineyard & Winery NV15 Cain Cuvée Napa Valley($36)

该版本的融合了Merlot和Cabernet，以及Cabernet Franc和Petit Verdot，以及Vintages（2014年和2015年）的混合物，该版本的CainCuvée拥有酿酒师Christopher Howell的风格：优雅而不是巨大的，充满活力而不是浓密的。亚搏电竞想想新鲜的李子，而不是果酱。

2017葡萄酒乐队纳帕谷赤霞珠（40美元）

“我们喜欢这种红色，因为它允许客人以不会摇晃天地的价格喝诚实的纳帕赤霞珠，”纳帕的Compline的Matt Stamp说。纳帕谷（Napa Valley）的亚搏电竞四名酿酒师合作实现这一目标，在平均纳帕赤霞珠（Napa Cabernet）的60美元左右的时候，这绝对是便宜货。

2015Mas Doix Salanques（$ 50）

“我在加泰罗尼亚（Catalonia）长大，普雷特地区所在的地方，所以这个靠近我的心！”Meana说。“这是优先地区葡萄酒的一个典型例子。”亚搏电竞事实是：黑暗而密集，带有许多覆盆子和黑色樱桃味的味道。