jeow som蘸酱
从2020年F＆W最好的新厨师Donny Sirisavath的甜味，酸和刺激性的老挝蘸酱从泰国辣椒，姜和大蒜中得到了一阵热量，并由明亮的新鲜柠檬汁平衡。这是牛皮纸上的美味伙伴。根据需要添加更多辣椒，并将其与Sirisavth配对来调节热量烟熏三尖。
如果您有蔬菜，就有绿色酱汁
枯萎的草药？随机绿色？将它们扔入搅拌机中，然后酸和脂肪，您将有一种酱汁，可以使一切都很好吃。
砂浆和杵大蒜蒜泥蛋黄酱
我在法国南部的圣经是理查德·奥尔尼（Richard Olney）露露的普罗旺斯桌子。这本书不仅记录了直观的区域烹饪，露西·卢卢（Lulu” Peyraud（Lucie“ Lulu” Peyraud）的Joie de vivre（班德尔（Bandol）传奇的葡萄酒庄园Tomaine Temaine Tomaine Tomaine的Matriarch，而且还庆亚搏电竞祝了传统和共享“餐桌”的重要性。我很幸运能坐在露露的桌子上两次。她第一次95岁，每天仍在地中海游泳。第二次是去年夏天。At 100, I found her living a life less aquatic but every bit as spirited.Lulu and her daughter, Laurence, greeted us on the terrace under the shade of maritime pines where she’s hosted countless guests, from harvest lunches for her large family of seven children to intimate meals shared with dear friends like Alice Waters.Before lunch, Lulu led me into her kitchen to show me her collection of mortars and pestles. The largest white marble mortar, with a wooden pestle and four knob-like handles, was filled with aioli the color and texture of lemon curd. She said that theMortier她的父亲于1917年继承了这所房子，并于1940年向露露（Lulu）和她的丈夫露西（Lucien）愿意。该砂浆的边缘圆润和碎裂，与一个多世纪的使用者交谈，使Rouille和Pistou等酱汁 -and aioli.The word aioli means “garlic oil,” and it’s a noun for both the mayonnaise-like sauce and the exuberant meal, or Le Grand Aioli, where the sauce is star. In her recipe, Lulu calls for a whole head of garlic, but I find that far too potent for my non-Provençal palate. I typically use just two cloves—sometimes more, especially in late spring when fresh bulbs from the new garlic crop arrive at my farmers market.It takes patience, and a few tries, to master making aioli with a mortar and pestle. I’ve learned to use a fine-tipped squeeze bottle to administer the oil in consistent drops at the start before an emulsion forms. Classic aioli contains no lemon juice or acid of any kind; the bite of garlic provides the sole counterpoint to the richness of the olive oil and egg yolks. The finished sauce is unctuous, thick, and velvety smooth—and adds immense flavor to anything you dunk in it.On that June day, Lulu served platters of steamed sweet potatoes, green beans, beets, artichokes, and carrots alongside boiled eggs and poached salt cod. She poured a 2015 Domaine Tempier Bandol rouge, slightly chilled, and kept her glass full throughout lunch. The rest of us coveted the estate’s legendary rosé at first, but soon switched to the red and noted how both were equally adept at mingling with all that garlic.This is a recipe for those who take pleasure in two things: the flavor of raw garlic and deliberate, meditative cooking. Beyond the superior quality of an aioli made in the mortar, to me, the tool has become more than a means to the end. Making aioli by hand gives me a rare moment of calm focus—a spiritual moment in the kitchen. And it’s cooking traditions like this, found the world over, that we must consciously preserve for generations to come.
