唐人街比现在比以往任何时候都更需要你的爱

I live in New York City within easy walking distance of唐人街，我每周至少在那里购物一次。但是自爆发以来COVID-19,新型冠状病毒, in Wuhan, China, I’ve been coming more often to see how things are going. For sure, the neighborhood has lacked its usual liveliness. I’ve missed jostling with the old ladies shopping for produce, so last week, I was relieved to see more people on the streets and in stores, giving me hope that we are returning to “normal.”

然后，我走到拐角处到莫特街（Mott Street），看到了通常熙熙hoy wong的关门店面唐人街的oldest restaurants. Normally the window is filled with racks of roast duck, soy sauce chicken, and roast pork that make my mouth water and distract me from the dilapidated façade of the 100-plus-year old building. Hoy Wong was the real thing: a throwback to old唐人街这是中国社区依赖的餐馆和商店的一部分。这是我用于沙锅鸡或外卖烤猪肉的首选。我喜欢旧世界的氛围，那里的顾客从未匆忙过，食物是真实的，一贯美味的美味。亚搏电竞

我站着难以置信地凝视着黑暗的店面，然后注意到一名从前门出现的女人，拿着一只购物袋。我觉得我必须和她说话。一开始不愿说话，她告诉我她是业主的朋友。她说，在过去的几周中，冠状病毒妄想症使该餐厅的业务减少了。租约即将续签，在考虑了他们的选择之后，所有者得出结论，他们别无选择，只能永远关闭。

Three stores down, in stark contrast to Hoy Wong, is Keki Modern Cakes—a spare, gleaming, modern storefront seemingly made for Instagram with its photogenic “bouncy cheesecake.” For the last few years, trendy places like Keki, novelty ice cream, mochi, and bubble tea spots, have begun making major inroads into唐人街。I was already concerned about the danger that these changing tastes pose to venerable businesses like Hoy Wong and唐人街本身。现在，我担心Covid-19可能只是最后的打击。

第二天吃,我看到一个标题proclaiming that the mall-friendly chain P.F. Chang’s will be opening a 2,000-square-foot take-out / delivery / catering-only “restaurant concept” in the Financial District. Then a perfunctory paragraph, headed “In other news” stated that “42-year-old Chinatown institution Hoy Wong has closed up shop.” It made me think, if food media doesn’t understand the significance of Hoy Wong’s closing, who does?

The New York I fell in love with when I arrived in 1979 is fast disappearing. The unique little stores, diners, coffee shops, boutiques, indie bookstores, movie theaters, and cafés that gave the city so much charm and character have been replaced by big-box chains, ever proliferating bank branches, fast-food outlets, block-long drugstores, and high-rise luxury condos. The city government gives plenty of lip service to supporting small businesses, but legislation that would put teeth into it has been stuck in political wrangling for 35 years. Gentrification is stripping New York of its heart and soul.

这肯定在唐人街发生。在伊丽莎白（Elizabeth）和大街的拐角处，在新公寓楼的底部拥有一家巨大的，明亮的GNC商店。我还没有看到它与中国客户在一起。随着租金的上升，居民在线订购越来越多的物品，妈妈和流行商店将动摇。美丽的旧建筑将倒塌，为在唐人街没有自然地位的企业铺平了道路。

现在，随着高档化的发展，Covid-19恐慌和它引起的仇外心理很可能很可能拼写出唐人街的结尾。已经被一条线程悬挂的家族企业可以消灭。Hoy Wong可能是即将发生的事情的形状。由于遥远的湖北省流行病成为头条新闻，因此唐人街的业务下降了40％至80％。当地人的赞助崩溃了，中国的旅行禁令几乎破坏了中国旅游业。yabo电竞投注从现实的角度来看，今年在美国，成千上万的人因季节性流感感到恶心，数千人死亡，但企业仍然不受影响。相比之下，冠状病毒的恐慌导致唐人街的商店和餐馆中的顾客严重损失。任何企业可以维持如此大幅度下降的收入下降多长时间？

根据唐人街合作伙伴关系执行董事惠灵顿·陈（Wellington Chen）的说法，唐人街98％的经济由小型企业组成。从历史上看，唐人街的利润率很薄。在新的Shing Hing产品，我可以以1.60美元的价格购买一磅最新鲜的Bok Choy。在我当地的超市，每磅3.99美元，夏天在联合广场绿色市场上，一小束重量不到一磅，价格低于2英镑。唐人街的商业模式取决于数量，当客户花费40％至80％的时间比平常时，利润蒸发了。

Chinese restaurants are even more vulnerable. They have long struggled because Chinese food is perceived as a “cheap meal.” But once the owner has paid for the ingredients, labor, rent, insurance, property and business taxes, water, electricity, and sanitation, how much profit could there possibly be in a $6.50 bowl of wonton soup? Necessarily, the Chinese business model is based on volume, but if customers avoid Chinatown, more restaurants will succumb to the fate of Hoy Wong.

Labor costs have risen dramatically in recent years, further shaving already slim profit margins—one of the many reasons for the steady decline in Chinese restaurants nationally. Restaurant work is labor-intensive and grueling. Chen says, “The average Chinese restaurant can easily have 10 to 20 employees, each earning $30,000 per year.” In the past few weeks, with so little money coming in, many Chinatown business owners have been forced to pay their staff’s salaries from their own savings. Often the employees have been with them for decades and are almost like family themselves. But business owners can’t absorb the downturn too much longer.

Addressing the coronavirus devastation, local politicians have been promoting a new campaign called向唐人街展示一些爱。我完全感谢我们当地商人的“用餐，商店和支持”的观点，但我想说这更加可怕和紧急。目前，唐人街正在享受生命的支持，而不仅仅是我们偶尔吃饭或拜访购物。我们需要定期去那里，以任何可能的方式为餐馆和所有小型企业和文化机构提供支持。

如今，我的中国裔美国人的朋友梅尔（Mel）和理查德·杨（Richard Young）在所有他们最喜欢的唐人街餐厅都在吃东西，留下了超过饭菜费用的技巧。“我们知道他们正在受苦，”我的朋友们说。您不必效法他们的奢侈例子，但是这种态度可以提高士气并帮助唐人街康复。

“You can find just about everything in Chinatown,” says my friend Jan Lee, who—like his father—was born and raised here. “I can walk one big circle and I have everything. Restaurants I’ve been eating at all my life, my doctor, dentist, ophthalmologist, lawyer, accountant, pharmacist, butcher, fishmonger, produce guy, fruit vendor, barber, shoe repairman, tailor, food market, eye glass store, bakery, hardware shop, bank, and even the place where I buy my appliances are all within an eight-block radius.”

He continued, “Recently when my uncle died, we used the funeral home which is around the corner. Chinatown spoils me. We are a neighborhood cradle to grave. It’s a delicate balance, a unique experience. Still and all, you can live here your whole life and not know Chinatown. There are always new things to discover.”

为我，Manhattan's Chinatown是最后一个堡垒，是纽约的最后一个真正的街区，它将我们带回了曾经的城市。像旧金山的唐人街一样，这是与过去的联系。The newer Chinatowns in Queens and Brooklyn offer great dining destinations and food shopping, but they don’t vibrate with the ancestral rhythms of Manhattan’s Mott, Bayard, Baxter, Pell, and Doyers Streets, where you find an age-old sense of community and history.

I believe in Chinatown’s resilience, but it can’t bounce back on its own. We’ve taken Chinatown for granted, assuming it will always be there, but if we don’t come to the rescue right now it could slip away. What we are saving is one of the most important centers for Chinese cuisine and culture in this country and a historic neighborhood that represents the American immigrant story. For those of us who love Chinatowns, wherever they may be, this is our time to step up.

You can bolster Chinatown’s economy in so many ways. Like my friend Jan Lee I rely on Chinatown for everything. It’s not just about eating. Here’s a collection of some of the cool and quirky places I love.

Note: There are plenty of places to buywoksin New York’s Chinatown but as a native San Franciscan I have to give a special shout out to Tane Chan, the owner ofThe Wok Shopin my hometown, which has been in business on Grant Ave for 52 years. On February 24, 2020, House Speaker Nancy Pelosi awarded The Wok Shop the Certificate of Special Congressional Recognition for outstanding and invaluable service to the community.

Po Wing Hong

Since 1980, afamily-owned food market这是中国储藏室的主食和草药，以及我的新痴迷，台湾红糖Boba冰淇淋吧。

49 Elizabeth St.

KK Discount Store

KK Discount Store是李先生和夫人的骄傲和喜悦，已经经营了30多年。这是唐人街的妈妈和流行版本的目标销售米饭，切割器，轮船和家庭用品物品 - 一站式服务，满足您所有日常需求。

78 Mulberry St.

盛大的食物亚搏电竞

In front of the store, a vendor sells the most popular items from the shop like fresh rice noodles, pristine mung bean and soybean sprouts.

212 Grand St.

林姐妹草药商店

The widest selection of traditional remedies, with English-speaking staff who can explain the finer points.

4 Bowery

Mee Li Fruits and Vegetables(伊丽莎白街57号），悬挂李（79 Bayard St.）， 和New Shing Hing(141 Mott St.) for high quality fresh produce.

Mulberry Street just south of Canalfor sidewalk vendors offering the most incredible selection of tropical and seasonal fruits.

Mark’s Wine and Spirits

一家酒店，包括大量的Shao Hsing，White和Herb葡萄酒。亚搏电竞

53 Mott St.

Jung’s

购买牛肉和猪肉干的旧世界体验。

58 Mulberry St.

New Hai Can Seafood Corp.(71 Mulberry St.） 和Aqua Best，Inc。(276 Grand St.) for fresh and live fish and seafood.

Wo＆Co。的机翼

唐人街最古老的商店成立于1890年，仍然由三代人经营。该商店专门从事经典瓷器餐具，也是W.O.W项目的所在地，W.O.W项目是艺术空间和社区讲座中心。

莫特街26号

Ah Bao the Cobbler

Repairs shoes while sitting on a little stool on the sidewalk (he also sharpens knives and scissors) at super reasonable prices.

伊丽莎白街120号

Ting的礼品店

唐人街的最后一家老式纪念品商店在业务上已有60多年的历史。

18 Doyers St.

Repair Watch & Jewelry

人行道手表修理工每周7天从一个临时摊位上工作，以低于10美元的价格代替手表电池和手表。

莫特和大街的NE角，仅次于205 Grand St.

Renew Day Spa II

This spa has five plush leather chairs so you and your friends can get a foot massage after you’ve finished shopping or before your meal. It’s reasonably priced and rejuvenating.

10 Bowery 2nd Fl.

For restaurants and prepared food shops, these are just a few favorites of mine and of my Chinatown friends. This list only begins to scratch the surface of Chinatown’s riches. You just have to come, wander around, and explore. Every time I’m in Chinatown I discover something new and unexpected.

Aux Epices

马来西亚 - 法国美食，您可以在这里享用鸡肉卫星，一碗海鲜laksa搭配一杯葡萄酒，并用豪华的法国水果蛋t结束饭菜。亚搏电竞亚搏电竞

121 Baxter St.

Double Crispy Bakery

唐人街最好的葡萄牙风格蛋t。

230 Grand St.

Hong Li

组合屠夫商店和烤肉外卖。我的朋友乔治·切夫（George Chew）在唐人街出生和长大，是他们大豆剂鸡肉的忠实拥护者。

莫特街124号

别针g’s

以香港风格的点心，鲜脆脆脆的炒饭和核桃和Xo酱而闻名。

22 Mott St.

Mei Lai Wah

Some locals love the cha siu bao (baked barbecued-pork buns) so much they buy them by the dozens.

64 Bayard St.

WK餐厅

著名的中国摄影记者Corky Lee的最爱。当您想吃复古的中餐厅食物时，他们会在镇上最好的鸡蛋阳yung。亚搏电竞

69 Bayard St.

霍普

这里的服务员以名字知道他们的顾客（以及他们的顾客的孩子）。毫无歉意的美国 - 中国食品。亚搏电竞

17 Mott St.

Fong On

Carries on a long family tradition (for over 80 years Fong On Too was the oldest tofu shop in Chinatown) making superb artisanal tofu, tofu pudding and soy milk.

81 Division St.

Green Garden Village

一个新来的受到当地人因为它opened. Enjoy their Cantonese barbecue items, the roast pork has extra crisp skin with juicy, tender meat, lobster fried glutinous rice and salt and pepper shrimp.

216 Grand St.

霍普·基

这家经典的粤语机构成立于1968年，是安东尼·布尔登（Anthony Bourdain）的最爱。人们会开车几个小时来享受螃蟹或龙虾风格。

21 Mott St.

Yi Ji Shi Mo

Rice rolls shops are springing up everywhere in Chinatown. At this little take-out, you can watch them making the rice noodle on the stainless-steel steamer. Within a minute it’s cooked and a filling like dried shrimp or barbecued pork is added before it’s rolled up.

88 Elizabeth St.

Wu’s Wonton King

这个受欢迎的地方以他们的婴儿烤哺乳猪，空灵的馄饨在自制的汤中供应，并用干扇贝炒豌豆芽。

165 E.百老汇

Wonton Garden

Wonton Garden是旅游最爱，供应出色的Suey Gao饺子，油炸chicken wings, and bitter melon and beef on rice.

56 Mott St.

Kopatiam

This mom and mom cafe is the place to go for Nyonya cuisine—snacks like curry puffs, belacan chicken wings, and sambal sautéed water spinach are soooo good.

151东百老汇

Bo Ky

当地人喜欢他们的Chiu Chow风格的鸭子和鸡肉。

80 Bayard St.

Wok Wok

美味的马来西亚食品；亚搏电竞牛肉集和“醉人”面条非常受欢迎。

11 Mott St.

黄金冯黄面包店

回到旧唐人街，上面有各种月亮蛋糕。

41 Mott St.

肺部面包店

以咖喱泡芙和芝麻球而闻名。

81 Mulberry St.

台湾猪排房子

Old timers love their beef stew noodle soup. Season it to taste with their incredible homemade condiments.

3 Doyers St.

Noodle Village

Outstanding shrimp wonton noodle soup and braised beef brisket tendon lo mein.

莫特街13号

上海21

以其小的长野（汤饺子）闻名，带有纸薄包装纸和带有松子的鸡肉。

21 Mott St.

Yin Kong ofThinkChinatown.org向我指出，从伊丽莎白到桑树街的贝亚德街已经成为“甜点步行”，这是一个阵容。

Mango Mango Dessert

This is heaven for mango lovers. Every kind of drink and dessert, from snow white mango slush to mango mochi.

63 Bayard St.

Let’s Makan

Malaysian favorites including apam balik, a crepe filled with pulverized peanuts, sugar and butter.

64A Bayard St.

唐人街Ice Cream Factory

Famous for their lychee, taro, black sesame and red bean ice creams.

65 Bayard St.

甜蜜的房子

大量的传统和现代甜点和饮料，包括豆腐蛋ust，黑芝麻糊和粘性米球以及炖木瓜。

67 Bayard St.

kam hing

Many swear that the individual sponge cakes are the best in town and they’re still only $1!

83b拜德街和118 Baxter St.

Alimama

Terrific matcha mochi donuts and boba milk tea cream puffs. Their bite-size munchkin donut holes are made to order and served piping hot.

89A Bayard St.

乳牛

一种美味，淡淡的乳白色软冰淇淋，带有异常的糖浆浇头，例如榛子或薄荷。

69A Bayard St.