The Crowd-Pleaser Cheese Fondue

In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch with the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of the wine.

Rub the inside of a small enameled cast-iron casserole or saucepan with the cut garlic clove. Add the remaining 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of wine and bring to a simmer over moderate heat.

Slowly whisk in the cornstarch mixture and simmer, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to moderately low and add the cheese in handfuls, whisking constantly, until each addition is melted before adding more and the fondue is smooth, about 5 minutes. Stir in the Kirsch or Cognac, if using. Serve immediately in the casserole or a warm fondue pot (see Note).