Brazilian-Style Collard Greens

Make the sauce: Stir together lemon juice, onion, cilantro, jalapeño, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl and set aside.

Cut out the thick stem from the center of each collard leaf with a knife, or hold the bottom of the stem with one hand, then loosely wrap the other hand around the leaf and rip upward to pull the stem and leaf apart. Arrange 5 to 6 leaves in a stack on a cutting board, then roll them tightly lengthwise. Slice crosswise into thin ribbons, and repeat with remaining leaves.

Heat oil in a large skillet, Dutch oven, or wok over medium-high. Add garlic and chile (if using), and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, being careful not to burn the garlic, 1to 2 minutes. Add collards and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon or tongs to coat well with garlicky oil. Add water and continue to cook until collards are uniformly dark green but still have a bit of crunch, 7 to 10 minutes.

Remove pan from heat; pour sauce over greens and toss together to thoroughly coat. Season collards with salt and pepper to taste.