厨师Sang Yoon为气泡辩护

You're one of the few chefs I've met who's as obsessed with wine as with food—particularly Champagne. Why so much passion for it?
我很小的时候就爱上了香槟。我记得确切的时刻。我当时在巴黎担任厨师，一位侍酒师试图胁迫我将一些鹅肝Terrine换成半杯79杯沙龙。我把他拿起。顺便说一句，这不是在一家美丽餐厅的饭厅里 - 这是在厨房后面的小巷里，厨房里的家伙们抽着他们的吉塔尼亚人，索姆（Somm）递给我一个塑料杯子。就像，“在这里，你一定要渴。现在你向我保证的那个鹅肝在哪里？”但是第一次sip我被迷住了。我想，如果我做任何自己的东西，我永远都不想用完香槟。而且我一直保持诺言。

But what if there were a zombie apocalypse where suddenly all of the Champagne in the world vanished? What would you drink then?
Whatever alien death ray wiped out all the Champagne, I'd jump right in front of it, too. But I like a lot of wines besides Champagne, just not reds. I do everything in my power to avoid red wine. I appreciate it, I can properly pair it with food, but I could be eating boar tartare and I still wouldn't drink red. But really, no Champagne after the zombie apocalypse? No bubbles ever? Wow. That's just so sad.

好的，我们不会消灭所有香槟。但是，您还喜欢哪些其他葡萄酒，亚搏电竞尤其是在夏季？
我喜欢格鲁纳，雷司令，穆勒·瑟尔高 - 勇敢的高调白葡萄酒。亚搏电竞我是TXAKOLI（来自西班牙）的粉丝，这又是有点嘶哑，而且很棒。和骨干桃红葡萄酒，Domaine Tempier，这种东西。而且，我还进入了普罗塞克（Prosecco）的Col Fondo风格，酵母仍在瓶中。

这些白葡萄酒类别中有两个闪闪发光，所以亚搏电竞您基本上是整体气泡的粉丝吗？
你正在抓住那个漂移吗？我真的很喜欢碳酸化。我喜欢苏打水。气泡为您喝的东西增添了第三个维度。使用葡萄酒亚搏电竞，我将其称为“ 3d中的葡萄酒”。喝酒更有趣，更有趣。我去了一个极端的地方，曾经在某人的房子里参加聚会，没有人喝酒，但他们确实有苏打水。亚搏电竞因此，我拿了一瓶葡萄酒，放入并分配它，就像苏亚搏电竞打水一样。说：“好，这是我的。不要触摸它。”

我想对气泡的热爱解释了为什么您也是啤酒狂热者？
Yeah, though my tastes have changed over time. It happens—you go from loving very hoppy beers to very yeasty ones, and then you sort of explore the genres. And then you settle in. For me, I've ended up at Belgian ales and farmhouse-style saisons. And sour beers. I love them. I always loved them, way before the style became so trendy. To me, they're like the crossover between wine and beer, like snowboarding is to skiing. I know a lot of snobby wine drinkers who won't touch a beer, but you pour them a sour and down it goes.

您认为人们有时会太认真对待葡萄酒吗？亚搏电竞
Oh, yeah. Infinitely. I've always been of the mind that wine needs to get over itself. I'm a huge fan, but as much as I love it, I often feel that the wine industry is its own worst enemy.

How do you mean?
I see a lot of wine lists nowadays that aren't about the restaurant, they're about the sommelier's ego. They're trying to show you how cool they are; if you've heard of the grape, then it's not going to be on the list. But that's true of a lot of chefs, too. The coolest restaurants right now, there's no drywall, just bare walls and concrete, and everyone is wearing T-shirts, and you have to have a full beard and a sleeve of tattoos, and you put nasturtiums on everything. The chairs are uncomfortable, but, man, they're uncomfortableon purpose.

You and chef Douglas Keane—both tattooless, I should point out—each had a hand in the wine program for Two Birds/One Stone. What's it like?
我们正在做很多事情。我们的玻璃葡萄酒专门来自小桶。亚搏电竞我们将其称为“葡萄酒……”，每个酿酒亚搏电竞师的名字都为每个葡萄酒。它们是一次性的田野混合，在其他任何地方都无法使用。

Plus, we're not charging corkage for Napa or Sonoma wines. You can't put everyone's wine on the list—what are there, like, 800 wineries here?—so it's more egalitarian. Because everyone who visits Napa ends up driving around with bottles of wine anyway. With some people it's like the back end of their rental car is sagging. Either they've got two dead bodies in there or four cases of wine.

With two big-name chefs working on a project together, there must be disagreements occasionally. How do you resolve those?
菜单问题确实是我们唯一遇到的问题，例如您想服务X，但我想为Y.道格服务。失败者得到了一瓶昂贵的香槟。

2015TxomínEtxanízTxakoli（$ 22）
"This lightly sparkling Basque wine tastes like fresh limes, and I love anything involving limes. Plus, Txakoli's subtle fizziness is great. But the traditional Spanish way of pouring it from a few feet above the glass—why do that? All it does is kill the fizz!"

NVCostadilà450SLM Col Fondo Prosecco（$ 24）
"I usually don't like Prosecco, but this is a very surprising wine: an ancient style, with a yeastiness that recalls some Belgian farmhouse ales. And it's stick-dry. I buy six or seven cases for my house every summer and drink them all."

2015 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé ($42)
“这款酒的双亚搏电竞重身份很酷 - 它是认真的，结构和复杂性，但也是桃红葡萄酒。我第一次尝试它时，我就像，‘哇，关于坦佩尔的所有炒作都是真实的！'”

NV PierrePétersCuvéeDeRéserveBlancde Blancs（60美元）
“这款伟大的Blanc de Blancs（完全由霞多丽制成的香槟）是剃须刀，生动的酸度；这是一种为酸橘汁腌鱼乞求的香槟。亚搏电竞，所以我是真正的OG PierrePéters迷。”

2013BottáriHárslevelű（$ 35）
"We sell this white from Hungary at my [Culver City, California] restaurant Lukshon, in part because it goes so perfectly with the southeast Asian flavors we use: palm sugar, fish sauce, Chinese black beans. But it's a weird wine. The first time I tasted it, I thought of Lana Del Rey, that song ‘Summertime Sadness.' That's what it tastes like—like the memory of summertime fruits."

2014 Keller Kirchspiel Grosses Gewächs Riesling ($72)
“这是我来自德国的两个最喜欢的出口之一。亚搏电竞亚搏电竞来自Panda Express的Pao Chicken实际上似乎是最好的箔纸。”

NV Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Val Vilaine Blanc de Noirs ($75)
“塞德里克·布沙德（CédricBouchard）是伟大的香槟制作人雅克·塞洛斯（Jacques Selosse）的研究。但是，与如今大多数人制作不好的塞洛斯仿制者不同，布沙德（Bouchard）表彰了他的绝地武士训练。这可能是我在世界上最喜欢的香槟之一。”