Beaujolais的下一件大事

For some 700 years, the Gamay grape has become synonymous with the French hillside towns ofBeaujolais, the southernmost region of Burgundy, which produces beautiful dark-berried Cru Beaujolais, and spicy village-level wines, as well as the fresh and fruity Beaujolais Nouveau reds. But after centuries of going unchallenged in the region, Gamay might soon see some competition.

Though producers have long agreed that Gamay—a grape that soaks in the sun's rays and grows vigorously in granitic soils unless tamed—thrives in the granite-based soils of Beaujolais, where the weather is typically warmer than the rest of Burgandy, it turns out that a small sub-region of Beaujolais about 45 minutes north of Lyon is hospitable to another kind of grape—and winemakers are taking note.

Enter Les Pierres Dorées, which translates to "golden stones." A cluster of 39 small villages, the region has earned the nickname "Little Tuscany" thanks to its steep hills and gorgeous landscape, dotted with tennis ball- and football-sized golden stones.

但是，酿酒师最感兴趣的是地下石头下方，陡峭的山坡上的石灰石土壤口亚搏电竞袋。石灰石加上充足的阳光，但白天的温度不高，晚上温度较低，使另一个葡萄种植成为一个有趣的概念。我当然在谈论Pinot Noir, which ripens fully here and develops complex flavors under these conditions.

在与法国传统的明确突破中，一些制片人确实开始用莱斯·皮埃尔斯·多雷斯（Les PierresDorées）代替Gamay VinesPinot Noirand even年代yrah。

One Burgundy négociant, Maison Louis Latour, began exploring the region in 2010 as a potential for newPinot Noirvineyards. By 2012, fifth-generation owner Louis Fabrice Latour and Boris Champy, Latour's director of winemaking, had planted some 44 acres of Pinot Noir on sites situated between 900-1,200 feet in elevation, where the grapes can ripen and retain that critical, natural acidity.

虽然Maison Latour并不是第一个在Les PierresDorées陡峭的山丘上种植黑皮诺的人，但它们是第一个在如此大的规模上这样做的人。路易斯·法布里斯·拉图尔（Louis Fabrice Latour）告诉我：“我们想创建一个新类别 - 来自南部Beaujolais的Pinot Noir。”

在撰写本文时，很难找到瓶子。我只能品尝到拉图尔葡萄酒的前两个年份：2015年和2016年Maison Louis Latour“ Les Pierr亚搏电竞esDorées” Pinot Noir，该葡萄酒将以20美元左右的价格在美国零售。

尽管拉图尔正处于探索黑比诺不同克隆种植的早期阶段，以及各种衰老方法，但我发现葡萄酒非常愉快。亚搏电竞2015年柔软多汁，由辛辣和毛茸茸的单宁加固，这是一块在黑皮诺中的水槽，并用力和慷慨，用香草和肉桂味完成。2016年是一个离开，橡树的年龄较少，而在不锈钢中的年龄更高。结果是一个新鲜的黑皮诺，具有出色的质地，丰富而健壮，呼唤Cru Cru Beaujolais带有更深的浆果风味，并带有甜美的香料甚至可可味的提示。

然而,甚至挑剔眼光的不会easy to identify these bottles when they hit shelves in greater numbers. While the words "Pinot Noir" and "Les Pierres Dorées" are prominent features of the front labels, the back labels list "Coteaux Bourguignons" as the appellation—a designation that denotes an area from "Auxerrois (about as far north as Épineuil, north-east of Chablis) down to and including Beaujolais," according to Jancis Robinson MW. Beaujolais is mentioned on the back label, but only in reference to Les Pierres Dorées in a sentence that puts the area, "in the heart of the Beaujolais district."

Only time will tell if Latour's presence helps establish Pierres Dorées as a new frontier for French Pinot Noir. For now, they're so hard to come by that I had to ask Bernard Retornaz, President of Louis Latour Inc., for help in identifying other producers following his lead. He pointed to four: two big producers smack in Les Pierres Dorées making Pinot Noir bottled under the Bourgogne AOC appellation—Jean-Paul Brun and Château Lachassagne. At present, you won't find their wine stateside.

Two other producers, Domaine Jean-Pierre Rivier and Domaine de la Fond Moiroux, are next to impossible, if not impossible to locate. The only other vineyard I could find with Pinot Noir plantings is Domaine Romy, which grows Chardonnay and Gamay too. But, as far as I can tell, they are not producing a 100 percent Pinot Noir bottles from Pierres Dorées.

我被告知，路易斯·贾多特（Louis Jadot）正在探索该地区，但是当我发表评论时，我被告知“酿酒厂无法确认在莱斯·皮埃雷斯·多雷斯（Les PierresDorées）种植任何计划”。亚搏电竞

Boisset Collection

在我的同事罗杰·莫里斯（Roger Morris）在今年秋天发表的一个故事中，我了解到黑比诺（Pinot Noir）也不是唯一可能使Gamay在该地区赚钱的葡萄。事实证明，勃艮第重量级的让·查尔斯·博伊萨特（Jean Charles Boisset）（JCB）正在Beaujolais最古老的房子Mommessin种植Syrah，该房屋成立于1865年。我在著名的Clace Clace Vougeot Vineyard中与JCB进行了交谈。

当我问他在莱斯·皮埃尔斯·多雷斯（Les PierresDorées）中种植黑比诺（Pinot）的想法时，他说：“土壤当然适合黑比诺（Pinot），但我们认为西拉（Syrah）是最好的选择。”实际上，他们大约12年前在Mommessin种植，并暗示了CôteRôtie的所有伟大的Syrah葡萄园的邻近，这是他推理的一部分。他认为，木薯和霞多丽的种植是“如果您来自科特·迪尔（Cote d'Or），则是一个明显的进化”，但坚定地站在西拉（Syrah）后面。

有趣的是，拉图尔（Latour）和博伊萨特（Boisset）都同意，博若莱（Beaujolais）的演变与葡萄园的发展有关。当涉及到坚定的Gamay葡萄时，他们都赞成北部勃艮第的葡萄藤方法，而不是以go虫（或灌木丛训练）的风格种植它们。在酿酒厂中，两亚搏电竞者似乎都以较低的发酵方式偏爱少量的碳浸渍和更“勃艮第的方法”，这使Gamay和Pinot Noir更具深度，更泥土和更多的结构。

Will wine drinkers embrace Pinot Noir from southern Beaujolais?

Curious to know how sommeliers would react, I asked Michael Madrigale, a亚搏电竞201亚搏电竞2年年度食品和葡萄酒侍酒师。他告诉我：“我认为这是一个非常有趣的项目。”“当涉及到Beaujolais的Crus时（被认为是该地区的奶油奶油奶油），土壤类亚搏电竞型始终是花岗岩。我认为，在南部Beaujolais的土壤类型上，Latour Placting Pinot在土壤类型上种植了黑皮诺，这两者都是进步的他说：“在危险的主张之前，“我非常感兴趣的品味，我认为在Beaujolais种植黑皮诺将是人们发现并最终理解该地区风土多样性的另一个原因。”

正如路易斯·法布里斯·拉图尔（Louis Fabrice Latour）对我说的那样：“证明是在布丁中。做得很棒，他们会喝。”亚搏电竞