屠夫商店的复兴如何改善餐馆

在整个20世纪的大部分时间里屠夫商店是小镇美国体验的图腾。那时，当地家庭知道他们的附近肉类供应商的名字。他们不仅转向他们的原始成分，而且还求助于如何准备它的律师。超市时代的扩散几乎消除了这种亲密关系。到21世纪初，这些关系似乎无非是诺曼·罗克韦尔（Norman Rockwell）画的浪漫寓言。但是，餐饮的新运动有望恢复这种漫长的基本工艺的地位。餐厅/屠夫商店Hybrid正在采用一种传统并重新使用它，以更好地反映当今的需求。换句话说：屠夫回来了，比以往任何时候都更好。

Over the past decade, nose-to-tail cooking has refocused attention on how meat is processed, as a necessary precursor to quality preparation. Typically, the butcher and the chef were two separate entities. But they’ve become increasingly intertwined, as distinguished chefs are involving themselves, more and more, with the art of butchering. The physical offshoot of this blurred line is an established outpost where whole animals are both torn downand在同一空间内组装成美食。

就是这样白金Butcherson the Upper West Side of Manhattan, where patrons can actually observe a tear-down prior to dinner. Wearing the white aprons here are Jocelyn Guest and Erika Nakamura, partners in the restaurant and champions of the hybrid concept. They connect the rising trend to a more conscientious consumer.

“顾客看整个动物的过程utchery are more closely connected to the food they consume,” says Nakamura. “By being able to actually identify the body part on your plate, you begin to understand the responsibility of consuming meat and feel the gratitude for the life that was given. The appreciation for this actually helps you taste more and better, we think.”

Throwing down full bore on the practice is Los Angeles. It might似乎具有讽刺意味的是，一个与羽衣甘蓝冰沙和果汁清洗相关的城市，但加利福尼亚州厨师长期以来一直在采购。加强供应链上的梯级是此问题的逻辑扩展。

在Eveleigh在西好莱坞，厨师贾里德·利维（Jared Levy）将整个动物带到了手工，现场屠夫，削减了任何神秘的中间人。他谈到这一过程时说：“当动物被屠杀时，我们直接从农民那里分娩。”“这些是最特别的屠宰项目，因为我们知道动物的整个生命故事，并且只有少数人在击中客户的盘子之前就已经接触了它。一旦我们占有，我们可能会立即屠宰它，或者让它在步入式冰箱中陈化。我们立即完成所有屠宰场，以便将肉暴露于热量和细菌中。那天晚上，我们经常会为生/塔拉餐/carpaccio菜提供。”

Levy is willing to pay a premium in order to offer his guests sustainability with a story. In turn, diners appreciate a chef who proudly stands behind the quality of what he plates — as he’s inserted himself into every step from farm to table. In contemporary cooking, it’s all too easy to pay lip service to that trendy term; putting in the effort to legitimately practice it is another matter entirely. “You’d be surprised how many working cooks these days can’t even butcher a chicken, let alone a pig or a lamb.” Or a goat, as was recently featured on a whole animal menu at Eveleigh. “We use these butchery sessions as a time to teach the younger cooks about Old World techniques and a craft that is lost in most modern kitchens.”

就在街上，厨师柯蒂斯·斯通（Curtis Stone）餐厅/屠夫混合动力车的灵感来自类似的传统。“心跳的格温他是欧洲风格的肉店，”他两岁的好莱坞热点指出。“这家商店收到了整个动物，包括遗产繁殖的地方，这些动物被屠杀，加工和分割，以在案例和餐厅中使用。削减厨房可能不会使用我们在案件和当地的周日农贸市场中提供的华丽terrays和rillettes。”

Although the restaurant’s elegant tasting menus and expansive wine selections threaten to steal the show come nightfall, the primacy of its midday meat market is difficult to overshadow. “I’m proud of the butchers,” says the chef. “They’re always trying to up their game — to source rare items like venison, elk, wild boar and game birds, while educating our guests and customers about responsible practices that are best for the animal and environment.”

全国其他地方，围绕屠夫案件建造的餐馆变得司空见惯：科钦将趋势带到了新奥尔良。在芝加哥，公共质量肉正在以其食肉倾向而闻名的城市交付美食。慢慢地但可以肯定的是，屠夫在认真烹饪的核心重新扮演了应有的角色。良好的美食家甚至开始以名字知道它们。您可以将它们称为“厨师”。