亚搏电竞食品和美酒亚搏电竞Best New Chefs 2021: Carlo Lamagna
Carlo Lamagna approaches Filipino food like a Grand Prix race car driver: He drives with extreme precision and finesse, but he isn't afraid to press on the gas. The translucent broth that forms the base of his sinigang atMagna Kusina, Lamagna's Portland, Oregon, restaurant, has the elegant gleam of consommé but is anything but subtle in flavor. It fully embraces its sour notes, with punches of tamarind knitted together by tomato, fish stock and fish sauce, onions, and garlic. And then there's the electrifying, elemental funk that ripples through the bagoong alamang, a condiment of fermented shrimp paste spiked with garlic, fish sauce, and palm sugar. It's a favorite childhood food of Lamagna's, given a cheffy makeover in a dish called mangga at bagoong alamang: It arrives at the table in a small boat carved out of raw green mango and is covered with a shower of edible flower petals.
但是，拉马纳食品还有另一个元素，在餐厅储藏室中的醋或盐浴缸中找不到。亚搏电竞这也不取决于餐厅的步入式冰箱中农产品或肉板的质量。这是他对他所烹饪的美食和他所代表的文化的不受欢迎的热情和感染力的自豪感，这对他所做的一切都为其他厨师花费了数年的时间而努力实现。
To walk into Magna Kusina is to walk into a dinner party at Lamagna's house. The dining room radiates welcoming warmth. (Lamagna built it with help from friends, finishing the construction on the restaurant after a contractor bailed halfway through.) There are heavy pours of Oregon wines, and Janet Jackson plays over the sound system. Lamagna feeds you with the joy and giddiness of an auntie who hasn't seen you in decades, passing you generous portions of pancit miki-bihon, bulked up with a combination of rice noodles and housemade egg noodles, and meaty, crispy lumpia packed with pork and mushrooms and fried. You'll eventually swear you have zero stomach real estate left for even one more bite, when out comes a mound of biko, coconut sticky rice, cuddled in a banana leaf blanket and topped with condensed coconut milk and an orb of ube ice cream gently melting like a purple snowman caught in the sun. Suddenly, miraculously, your stomach will manage to find an empty quadrant.
Lamagna,麦格纳多a place to champion Filipino cooking. It's also a way to honor his late father. "One of the last things he said to me was, 'I'm proud of you. I am not worried about you. Just promise me you won't forget who you are and where you come from.'" It's a promise Lamagna knew he could keep through food. "From the point that he passed away to now, the goal was to open a Filipino restaurant and show the world our family's culture," says Lamagna, "There's a reason why it's called Magna. It's part of our last name."
拉马纳（Lamagna）出生于菲律宾，但他的童年大部分时间都在底特律，他11岁时回到菲律宾，并在高中和大学居住。他来自一个才华横溢的厨师。他的姐姐是鼓励他专业地从事烹饪的人。他说：“她是我开始认为自己可以从事这一事业的原因。”拉马纳（Lamagna）被踢出大学后，回到了底特律，他在整个城市的众多餐馆工作，从乡村俱乐部到寿司酒吧，在那里参加了当地的烹饪计划。
在那之后，他决定是时候认真对待自己的职业生涯，参加了美国烹饪学院。毕业后，他在芝加哥找到了一份工作，最终在那里为厨师保罗·维兰特（Paul Virant）工作。克莱德普通（Clyde Common）的厨房机会将拉马纳（Lamagna）带到了波特兰。在那里近三年半后，他被解雇了，他认为是时候停止为其他人工作，追逐自己的菲律宾人的梦想了。在2019年8月，Magna Kusina开幕之前，他进行了两年的弹出式晚餐。
Long term, Lamagna dreams that Magna will one day become a pillar in the Filipino community. "I want it to be more than just a restaurant," Lamagna says. "I want it to be a place where people feel safe and comfortable, and where they can come together and share stories." He imagines Magna as a communal space, where others can launch their own ideas and pop-ups. And he hopes it will one day be a restaurant that "turns out some amazing chefs in their own right."
As for that last point, he is well on his way: Most of the people who work for Lamagna have been with him for at least two years, with one of his sous chefs coming up on 11 years of working together. "Ultimately, I just want to be able to have something that my kids are proud to say, 'Hey, look. This is what my dad did,''' says Lamagna. "The same way that I talk about my dad, I want them to talk about me."
Photos by Aubrie Pick