Food & Wine Best New Chefs 2021

The 33rd class of Best New Chefs will guide the industry toward a stronger, brighter, more equitable future for workers and diners alike.

I don't know how restaurants work anymore. I've come to this conclusion after spending the spring traversing the country (fully vaccinated) and eating in as many cities as I possibly could (fewer than usual, due to the circumstances). Everything was different; even fine dining was to-go. Menus were accessed by QR codes, and it was weeks before I encountered a real plate. But it's not just the experience of dining that's different; what it means to be a chef has changed.

这是一个建立在摇摇欲坠的基础上的行业,全球大流行使每一个裂缝都聚焦。但是通过这些裂缝,真正的领导才出现了。领导者优先考虑员工的安全性和需求,而不是客户的异想天开。领导才能以当地社区为中心,为有需要的人提供杂货和热餐。领导力仍然是出色的烹饪,即使赔率与他们叠加在一起,这些烹饪也可以安慰和高兴。

This year's class of Best New Chefs exemplifies this approach to leadership. There's the chef in Austin who is running an ambitious in-house masa program while prioritizing the mental health of his team, and the pastry chef in Washington, D.C., who is baking whimsical desserts that center the flavors of her Dominican heritage while launching bake sales that help combat racism. There's the scrappy chef in Portland, Oregon, who is making America fall in love with the robust and complex flavors of Filipino food and building a gathering space for his community, and the chef in Ann Arbor, Michigan, who merges Midwestern produce with centuries-old Korean recipes while also compensating her staff well above market standards and providing a slew of benefits.

从海岸到海岸,2021年的最佳新厨师班级正在重塑在厨房里烹饪最重要的食物,这对他们来说最重要。亚搏电竞餐馆可能不再看起来一样,但是随着这类厨师的掌舵,我很高兴看到并吃掉未来的一切。

Horn Barbecue, Oakland, CA

Credit: Aubrie Pick

In the crackling flames of the fire he had just lit in his grandmother's backyard, Matt Horn found his life's calling. "The smoke is in your face, you're hearing the wood cracking, you're seeing the embers, you're seeing the coals being formed," he explains. "It was transformative for me. I zoned out. Nothing else around me mattered." That was it—he was hooked, and there was no going back. Horn knew at that moment that he would spend the rest of his life pursuing the mastery of barbecue.阅读更多。

海湾地区的Pitmaster寻求灵魂食品,熏制的鲑鱼和严重的氛围。亚搏电竞

Credit: Jiaqi Wang

Bakers Against Racism, Washington, D.C.

信贷:亚历克斯·刘

Velez的糕点作品(包括浓稠的粘bun头,上面有泥甜的车前草,厚重的饼干,她称为“浓稠的饼干”,上面挤满了抹茶粉和白巧克力块,以及草莓knafeh,亮粉红色,水果和高高的phyllo shards-没有phylocetic-不使用phopologetic-不使用phopologetic它们的尺寸和风味。他们拒绝成为背景笔记或一顿饭。他们不是微妙的。他们不是脆弱的。它们是技术和文化的庆祝表达。他们就像Velez。阅读更多。

直流点的插图

The chef-philanthropist opts for natural wine, oxtails, and lazy Sundays in the District.

Credit: Jiaqi Wang

Magna Kusina, Portland, OR

Credit: Aubrie Pick

Carlo Lamagna approaches Filipino food like a Grand Prix race car driver: He drives with extreme precision and finesse, but he isn't afraid to press on the gas. The translucent broth that forms the base of his sinigang at Magna Kusina, Lamagna's Portland, Oregon, restaurant, has the elegant gleam of consommé but is anything but subtle in flavor. It fully embraces its sour notes, with punches of tamarind knitted together by tomato, fish stock and fish sauce, onions, and garlic. And then there's the electrifying, elemental funk that ripples through the bagoong alamang, a condiment of fermented shrimp paste spiked with garlic, fish sauce, and palm sugar. It's a favorite childhood food of Lamagna's, given a cheffy makeover in a dish called mangga at bagoong alamang: It arrives at the table in a small boat carved out of raw green mango and is covered with a shower of edible flower petals.阅读更多。

厨师在玫瑰之城为食品推车,秘密景点和压力亚搏电竞缓解。

Credit: Jiaqi Wang

加利福尼亚州洛杉矶的全天宝贝

Credit: Aubrie Pick

They say that you eat with your eyes first, and it's impossible to not have yours widen with hunger when they spot slices of chef Thessa Diadem's velvety ube pie. It's one of the newest additions to the pastry case at All Day Baby in Los Angeles, and it is a showstopper. The thick ube custard, a shade of purple so saturated and vivid that Prince would be jealous, sturdily sits up in an impossibly flaky crust. Each piece is topped with a cascade of chamomile-spiked whipped cream puffs that gather like clouds before a rainstorm. Yes, the ube pie is a nod to Diadem's Filipina heritage (she immigrated to the United States at the age of 13), but it also represents her broader approach in the kitchen: using the most global flavors that she can source locally.阅读更多。

热爱艺术的厨师在天使市找到了上升的早午餐,奶酪和葡萄酒。亚搏电竞

Credit: Jiaqi Wang

Suerte, Austin, TX

学分:塞德里克·安吉利斯

You can smell Suerte from a block away. East Sixth Street is one of Austin's busiest and most energetic thoroughfares, but follow your nose—nostrils inflating to inhale the air thick with the unmistakable smell of toasted corn—and you will find yourself standing in front of chef Fermín Núñez's altar to all things masa. It's one of a growing number of restaurants in the country devoted to the art of nixtamalization, a process that prepares dried corn kernels to be ground into the fresh dough used to make tortillas and tostadas so redolent with flavor that they will make you ask if you've ever truly tasted corn before.阅读更多。

The masa master sings the praises of tacos, carne guisada, and new-school barbecue in the live music capital of America.

Credit: Jiaqi Wang

Anju, Washington, D.C.

信贷:亚历克斯·刘

当安吉尔·巴雷托(Angel Barreto)首次与他在华盛顿特区的餐厅安朱(Anju)的供应商安朱(Anju)建立帐户时,销售人员不相信当他订购150磅咸虾时,他很认真。即使商店有库存的成分,销售人员说他并不认为巴雷托实际上“需要它”。不是第一次(也不是最后一次),有人惊讶的是,巴雷托(Barreto)是一半的波多黎各人和半黑人,笑容伸展,耳朵伸到耳边,经营着华盛顿特区最受欢迎的韩国餐厅之一。他说:“很少有[厨师]看起来像我一样烹饪亚洲美食,尤其是韩国美食。”亚搏电竞阅读更多。

The chef's view of the nation's capital includes rum, brunch, and Jersey-style pizza.

Credit: Jiaqi Wang

Miss Kim, Ann Arbor, MI

学分:塞德里克·安吉利斯

“自从3岁起,很多人都知道他们想成为厨师,”密歇根州安阿伯市的金·金小姐(Ji Hye Kim)说。“那根本不是我的故事。当我开始思考时,我30岁。”金在韩国首尔长大,在稳定的壮观餐点中。她的妈妈是一位才华横溢的厨师,所以从现年43岁的金(Kim)看来,金(Kim)将美味的食物视为理所当然。亚搏电竞“我一生一直在那里。”但是金的妈妈永远不会让她在厨房里提供帮助,而在某个时候,金停止了尝试。阅读更多。

热爱狗的厨师发誓密歇根州烘焙食品,三明治和米德。

Credit: Jiaqi Wang

圣日耳曼,新奥尔良,洛杉矶

学分:塞德里克·安吉利斯

厨师布雷克·阿奎拉德(Blake Aguillard)和特雷·史密斯(Trey Smith)are, to put it frankly, huge nerds. The chefs and co-owners of Saint-Germain in New Orleans openly geek out over ikejime, a Japanese fish-butchering technique (it's considered more humane and helps keeps their menu prices down), or the results of a fermentation experiment (transforming scraps of venison into garum, a fish sauce–like condiment that takes three months to make). It's hard to resist getting caught up in their earnest and infectious excitement.阅读更多。

The duo goes for po'boys, pastries, cocktails, and coffee in the Crescent City.

Credit: Jiaqi Wang

加利福尼亚州旧金山的国家鸟类准备

Credit: Aubrie Pick

Gaby Maeda宣称:“每天上班时,我都会像第一天一样兴奋。”梅达(Maeda)是旧金山坚定国家鸟类(State Bird)的厨师厨师,在那里她和她的团队在那里筹集了一份明亮而有力的加利福尼亚美食菜单,重点是当地农产品,并具有强烈​​的亚洲影响力。她在专业厨房工作了十多年,这就是她最快乐的地方。“我要做的就是与我的团队一起努力,每天与他们成长。”阅读更多。

The Honolulu transplant bikes and strolls SF for bread, burritos, and potato pizza.

Credit: Jiaqi Wang

Nice Day, New York, NY

信贷:亚历克斯·刘

卢卡斯罪恶的使命是完美的左宗棠chicken. His goal: to make a version of the sticky-sweet, deep-fried poultry dish for Nice Day, his modern American Chinese restaurant in New York, that retains its crispness when delivered, with a sauce that's viscous but not gloopy, garlicky but not too hot. General Tso's is one of the most popular items at American Chinese restaurants around the country, and yet, according to Sin's research, there is no standard way to make it. He has combed through cookbooks, spent hours scouring the internet, tasted as many versions as he could track down, and spoken on the phone with Chinese chefs around the country, but no one can agree on what makes General Tso's so distinctively delicious.阅读更多。

出生于香港的厨师在大苹果中咬人,切片,汉堡和世界一流的粤菜。亚搏电竞

Credit: Jiaqi Wang