安吉·马尔（Angie Mar）的大回报

“当我八岁的时候，我竞选要留在法国，”安吉·马尔（Angie Mar）笑着告诉我。她回忆说，在度假期间与家人一起在一家餐厅吃了一口小牛肉肾之后，她决定巴黎，而不是她的家乡西雅图，是她本来应该是的地方。“我对那里的食物很着迷。”亚搏电竞

It's January 2021, and we're sitting in the back dining room of the Beatrice Inn, Mar's subterranean palace dedicated to all things meat and New York City. As she tells this story, Mar's face softens to a wistful smile. It's a different side of the chef and restaurateur than what I expected after reading headlines about her毫不妥协的承诺她的烹饪和卓越风格，但是自从她的食谱发行以来，她和周围的许多事情发生了变化屠夫 +野兽in 2019. The conversation naturally progresses to family and next steps in an uncertain time in restaurants and in New York City.

"I've done a really good job of this restaurant being a huge party, but it's also chaos 24/7," Mar says from a banquette. In the cubicle-sized kitchen around the corner from where we're sitting, a small team cooks and packs to-go orders, once unthinkable for this fine-dining institution butnecessary in the current reality。Just outside of where we're sitting, the West Village looks gray and desolate against the brutal winter cold and the boarded up businesses along Hudson Street. "I just want peace," Mar says as she looks around the darkened space.

Months earlier, in November, Mar announced the Beatrice Inn, the nearly 100-year-old steakhouse that she's co-owned since 2016,would be closing and moving next door to a vacant restaurant space。The reason, Mar told the press, was a landlord who refused to budge on an exorbitant rent increase.

The Beatrice Inn had been open since 1920, and taking it over was a daunting task. But she excelled,获得好评如潮的评论，，，，earning a F&W 2017 Best New Chef nod, and making the menu and dining experience a celebration of opulence, with enormous aged steaks, caviar, and magnums of Champagne. It was a party and Mar was the hostess, "transforming it into a nocturnal palace where大量切割陈年的Pat Lafrieda牛肉are served on silver platters… and many of the offerings are presented, carved, or prepared tableside for maximum visceral, animalistic, hedonistic, Rome-is-burning pleasure,"wrote F&W Editor in Chief Hunter Lewisin 2019. It made sense, post-Covid, to restart the party next door as soon as possible.

但这不是完整的故事。

创造性地“我长大了,我已经成长为一个业务ss owner," she says. Running a party 24/7 has its downsides, and as Mar writes in her book, she's been "sued, extorted, and had [her] face splashed across Page Six" in the time since she's owned the Beatrice Inn. In the weeks after the announcement, instead of thinking about reopening "The Bea," as it's affectionately called, Mar thought about what she wanted to do next. "I'm ready to have a place that is a little less chaotic." Instead of reopening the Beatrice Inn as guests have known it, she's opening a new restaurant concept next door. Inspired by the nickname her father and uncles called her and her two brothers, "the three horses," her new restaurant,Les Trois Chevaux，，，，will be an ode to her family, her favorite type of food to cook and eat, to the city that has become her adopted home, and where she wants New York to go after a devastating year.

It's March 2021, and the West Village looks more alive than it had on previous visits, with flowers in front of corner stores and the sounds of children playing in Bleecker Playground. Outdoor dining spaces lining Hudson Street are full of people chatting cautiously about the future.

我在西12街283号找到了3月，这一空间仍在进行中。她穿着闪闪发光的白色厨师外套，看起来很困惑。在她面前有三个22盎司牛排，陈化的程度不同：30天老年牛排，45天老年牛排和60天的老年牛排，所有牛排都非常完美，切成薄片。今天是新空间中菜单测试的一天，她想弄清楚牛排的年龄与一堆果子和骨髓一起食用。

Mar grabs a piece of the 30-day aged steak and turns it over in her hands, observing it before ripping it in two and placing a piece in her mouth with the seriousness of a sommelier blind-tasting a bottle of wine, before doing the same to the other steaks. Each one is gorgeously marbled with lines of opaque fat and cooked to a perfect rare. "Do you think we should go with one bone marrow or two for this dish," she asks her crew who are working to help with menu development that day. They laugh. "I think one is enough," Aaron Chang, her executive sous chef, says.

A strong throughline in Mar's cooking is a commitment to luxury, and it's apparent in the new space as well. Luscious banquettes are upholstered in navy blue (the color of her late father's favorite blazer); the marble of the wraparound bar was handpicked by Mar herself; and the gleaming crystal chandelier that dangles above the dining room is from the Waldorf Astoria circa 1931. But Les Trois Chevaux's luxury is about communicating a different message, Mar says.

在地面上，在她完全根据自己喜欢的空间中，从上到下，就被视为厨师和人，也许是第一次被视为厨师和人。她谈到Beatrice Inn时说：“我为人们来检查名单而不是实际看到它而感到沮丧，但我感觉到她在谈论自己。“我被那个标志性的名字戴上手铐。”

As I'm standing in the kitchen, she's tasting everything that her team is working on and offering feedback. Frog's legs confited in duck fat and seared in a hot pan aren't up to par, so the team discusses prepping them differently, maybe poached instead. After tasting a bordelaise sauce she instructs her sous chef to reduce the wine "to almost nothing" to extract flavor and get rid of the bitterness. A truffle croissant, flaky and layered with thin slices of black truffles made in-house as an homage to Lutece, the French restaurant helmed by chef André Soltner that was在43年期间，通常被认为是纽约市最好的，，，，will definitely be on the menu, but it has to pass Mar's taste test before it gets the greenlight. She tears at it and thinks it over as she chews.

Soltner占据着特殊的地位作为一个导师Mar。He told Mar that during his time at Lutece he wanted to cook food that he believed in and was interested in, and that he hoped people would understand it. And if they didn't? So be it, he would keep cooking it anyway. "I identify with him in that aspect," Mar says. Her menu at Les Trois Chevaux is a nod to restaurants from New York City's fine-dining past like Le Cirque and Lutece, spurred by her deep research into old French cookbooks and a dedication to doing whatshe想现在做。但是今天，松露的羊角面包变得贬低了言论，向机组人员发出信号，表明食谱仍然需要调整。她说：“这还不是疯狂的。”

Mar's deep reverence for French cooking is evident in everything she cooks. Chef Jacques Pepin remembers his first time eating at the Beatrice Inn, a dinner with his daughter Claudine. Mar presented them a tin of caviar and a bottle of Champagne, but the dish that made him understand her soul as a cook was a perfect, flavorful country-style paté. "Her food has personality, very strong character and personality," he says. "And like the best cooks, she's very generous. That passion and fortitude plus proper technique and talent makes her cooking exceptional." Pepin also helped out a little with decorating the new space: He gifted her one of his paintings to hang in the dining room.

In屠夫 +野兽, 3月写道:“你是否认为我一块食物亚搏电竞s good or bad, the process is more meaningful to its creator than whatever your opinion may be." On the surface it seems like a brash refusal to cater to critics, but underneath that comment is someone who thinks long and hard about their next move and what they want to say, and steels themself to the potential feedback before sharing their work with the world. In another part of the book, she talks about a writer, or as she says, "a food blogger turned critic," who she blacklisted for writing that her whiskey-aged steak catered to the 1%. Although she says her chef motto is"zero fucks given,"对我来说，这家轶事和她的新餐厅表明，Mar是一位艺术家，实际上是在乎很多事情，包括人们对她的食物的反应。亚搏电竞

"The first time I met Angie, I'd read the stories, and the word坏蛋出现了很多，很多媒体都非常像“女人制作牛排？”，杰米·费尔德玛（Jamie Feldmar）亚搏电竞屠夫 +野兽。"But someone who doesn't care very deeply and isn't as sensitive wouldn't put so much into the food that they cook."

And probably no dish on the new menu shows that more than the crown of lamb. Flambéed and carved tableside, it's seemingly just a delicious cut of meat served in grand form, which has become part of Mar's signature. But the dish is actually in honor of her father, who passed in 2018 as she was working on her cookbook and whose absence feels like it fills in the spaces in the story she's trying to tell in those pages. He cooked simple broiled lamb chops with black pepper and marmalade for her and her siblings when she was growing up, and in the quiet of 2020, with New York City and its restaurants closed, she found herself longing for those meals. "I'm actually quite antisocial and like to eat by myself because it's my time to reflect," she told me during our first meeting. At the time, it struck me as an admission of being impacted by others so intensely that solitude feels like safety.

当我对她说很多时，她坐下来叹了​​口气。她说：“我认为在这段时间里我们都学到了很多知识。”“我感到很长一段时间，过去一年实际上已经加强了我已经准备好变革和成长了。”Les Trois Chevaux是要拥抱那些更安静的本能，或者，正如她所说的那样，将“黑指抛光剂”放下。

那天我离开了新空间的厨房，并感谢机组人员让我出去玩，但是很明显，还有很多工作要做。

The last time I met with Mar she was moving through the dining room and kitchen of Les Trois Chevaux as the spaces were in the final stages of being put together. It was late May, and the West Village seemed to be in full swing with cars playing loud music, friends laughing along the sidewalk tables over brunch, and a production crew filming an episode of奇妙的Maisel夫人在街头的尽头。火星似乎也充满了众多的精神，并受到附近的能量以及在厨房和餐饮空间上进行修饰的嗡嗡声。以真正的Mar方式，她不仅要做任何创意团队，而且还必须拥有最好的。她组建了一支顶级团队，以帮助实现对餐厅的愿景，包括屡获殊荣的装饰建筑公司Bwarchitects，劳尔·阿维拉（Raul Avila）的鲜花劳尔·阿维拉（Raul Avila）和克里斯蒂安·西里亚诺（Christian Siriano）的服装。“我很高兴开放，”她在Tea＆Enspathy的下午茶中告诉我。

She also had some news. "I'm not going to have steak on the menu," she said, unflinchingly. Despite what people expect of her, the opening menu at Les Trois Chevaux won't have a beef steak. Instead, she's opting for what's inspiring to her right now, like calves' brain quenelles with aerated bechamel and truffles. The point is not to be contrarian, but to leave the door open to cook whatever she wants in the future. "I'm sure that'll change as time goes on and I'm inspired by new things," she said. She's also been looking to Chinatown to support local businesses and working with local, family-run seafood purveyors. She uses words likeold school，，，，时尚，，，，and幻想描述Les Trois Chevaux的感觉时。

In her book, she writes, "New York has welcomed me, embraced my oddities, fed my neuroses, and nurtured my creativity." With Les Trois Chevaux, she'll be putting her current obsessions and point of view on a platter to be consumed, on her terms. "The new place is like a clean slate, and she doesn't have a heritage to live up to there," Feldmar says. "This is really going to be Angie Mar in her element, just Angie completely like a thousand percent herself."

似乎刚刚重新开放的纽约市可能会再次为Mar女士做好准备，Mar女士精力充沛，准备举办另一种聚会。她说：“这是纽约需要走的方向。”“有人必须这样做。”