喝黑皮诺并为此感到自豪

I've rarely been as embarrassed when ordering wine as I was the month I drank just比诺格里乔。侍酒师的枯萎凝视，匆忙的葡萄酒清单（“浪费在你身上”，手势似乎暗示）几乎足以让我重新考虑我的要求。亚搏电竞但是我有一个使命：品尝尽可能多的黑皮诺（Pinot Grigios），以期找到一些真正的优质葡萄酒，即使这意味着屈辱和蔑视。亚搏电竞

当然，有很多人对Pinot Grigio有非常积极的感觉。毕竟，这是该国最受欢迎的进口葡萄酒：2002年售出了600万箱，占所有进口葡萄酒的令亚搏电竞人印象深刻的12％。这些数字只有增加：黑比里木的销售额增长了近40％，并且随着国内黑皮诺（Pinot Grigios）的繁荣的发展而变得更大（2004年在加利福尼亚州种植了7,000英亩的黑皮诺（Grigio））从2003年起20％）。的确，黑皮诺（Pinot Grigio）可能很快就会比长相思（Sauvignon Blanc）更时尚，这是世界上几乎所有可行的葡萄园土地上种植的葡萄（乌拉圭长相思，有人吗？）。

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Yet Pinot Grigio remains more consistently maligned by wine professionals and collectors than Chardonnay and Merlot combined. It's hard to find a serious wine drinker, let alone a sommelier, willing to put in a good word for the grape.无害和无趣are two words I've heard so often I half expect to find them on a back label: "An innocuous, uninteresting wine. Pair with pasta, chicken and fish."

Even before I started my campaign, I'd tasted a few Pinot Grigios that deserved a kinder description. More often than not these were wines from northern Italian regions like Trentino-Alto Adige. (In fact, the most popular Pinot Grigio sold in the United States, Santa Margherita, comes from the Trentino-Alto Adige, where, as the legend goes, importer Tony Terlato tried 18 different bottlings before finding the one that would win him a devoted following and a small measure of fame.)

比诺格里乔is produced in other parts of Italy too—Umbria, Emilia-Romagna and Friuli, which is home to some of the country's best wines (as well as some of its worst). In general, Pinot Grigio is a light-bodied, high-acid, delicate white, although the top producers turn out wines that have more of everything: more intense aromas, flavor and weight—though no Pinot Grigio is ever as rich and full-bodied as a Pinot Gris, the French wine made with the same grape. Yet the Italians dominate by virtue of amount: There's a lot more Grigio than Gris.

这是Pinot Grigio的问题之一，因为批量生产的葡萄酒是根据鉴赏家的兴趣而定义的。亚搏电竞有一些例外，例如香槟。似乎无关紧要的是，几乎到处都可以找到大牌香槟装瓶（我曾经在香烟旁边的一家超市中找到DomPérignon）；Champenois能够保持稀缺和声望的形象。也许Pinot Grigio生产商可以使用香槟营销团队？

然后是所有这些真正“无害”和“无趣”葡萄酒的问题。亚搏电竞那里有多少？好吧，在一个月的时间里，我可能品尝了近60种Pinot Grigios，发现可以使用这些单词来描述三分之二。另一方面，另外三分之一的葡萄酒实际上相当不错。亚搏电竞

Most of my tastings took place at home, not in restaurants. Not just because I wanted to avoid the humiliation but also because I resented the high prices. (A popular wine like Pinot Grigio is liable to get marked up many times, as restaurateurs know it will sell regardless of cost.) For example, the very tall, very thin and very rich customers at Manhattan's Harry Cipriani pay $55 for a bottle of Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio (more than three times its wholesale cost), and yet Cipriani sells more Santa Margherita than just about any other restaurant in New York. On the other hand, Santa Margherita is a steal compared to the house drink, the Bellini, which at $16.50 a glass is more like 10 times the cost of its ingredients.

Of the Pinot Grigios I tasted, about 50 were Italian; the remainder were American, including one particularly good wine from California, the 2004 Palmina Alisos Vineyard from Santa Barbara County. Made by Steve Clifton of Brewer-Clifton winery fame, the wine had a crisp acidity and a lovely aroma of pears (most Pinot Grigios don't have much of a nose). When I called Clifton to discuss the wine, he told me Santa Barbara was suddenly awash with would-be Pinot Grigio producers. "I made my first Pinot Grigio in 2000, and I could get any grapes I wanted," he said. "Now there's such a run on the grapes I've had to plant my own vineyards."

Palmina标签非常备用 - 简单的图纸，没有其他图纸。实际上，我发现最好的葡萄酒几乎没有超出最重要的事实，亚搏电竞而最糟糕的葡萄酒则带有散文继续播放的标签。“用加尔达湖南岸的礼物奖励您的味蕾！与您的朋友一起享受，开胃菜，意大利面，鱼类和沙拉。亚搏电竞例外是Lungarotti的意大利Pinot Grigio，这是一种非常干净，酥脆和矿物质的葡萄酒，带有背部标签，显然需要一些良好的复制：亚搏电竞饱满，平衡的风味。”

As my Pinot Grigio project came to a close, I was truly surprised by how many good bottles I'd found—and much more optimistic about Pinot Grigio than when I began. Who knows, with more winemakers like Steve Clifton dedicated to the cause, perhaps one day the two words most often used to describe Pinot Grigio will besurprisingly good。