When the snow melts away, Savoie is still an incredible destination to eat and drink.
Advertisement
野花
One of the most mountainous regions in France, Savoie is famous for its summer wildflowers, as in this field overlooking the turquoise waters of Lac du Mont-Cenis.
|学分:由Savoie Mont Blanc-Baudot提供

在我参观法国东部的萨瓦(Savoie)的高山地区之前,我从未考虑过酿酒师和滑雪者可能有什么共同点。亚搏电竞毕竟,您不会让葡萄园边缘。但是,造成12,000英尺山脉(非常适合滑雪)的地质破坏往往会使藤蔓友好的土壤下降(非常适合葡萄种植)。在夏天,滑雪者融化了,将酒店,餐馆和欣赏徒步旅行者,骑自行车的人和葡萄酒爱好者的壮丽景色(如我)欣赏。亚搏电竞

我和我的丈夫在去年八月从勃艮第开车,我们在那里,我们的住所是通过崎g的灰色景观,鉴于法国最大的天然湖泊,在日内瓦以南47英里处,看上去很瑞士人,这并不令人惊讶。明亮的绿色水意味着温暖游泳,因为无害的藻类负责在75°F约75°F下开花。在白天结束时,我们在小酒馆无与伦比的露台上喝了闪闪发光的柑橘crémantde savoie,被精心掩盖的员工(随处可见),并观看湖的非凡色调随着光的淡出而淡化。

Savoie Grape品种,例如Jacquère,Altesse和Mondeuse并不是家喻户晓的名字。而且,由于滑雪者和远足者是口渴的人,所以大多数萨瓦伊酒从来没有超越山脉。亚搏电竞我处于未开发的地形。

We circled the lake to Jongieux to meet Eric Carrel, who still bottles under his father's name, François. Of Savoie's four appellations, Vin de Savoie is by far the largest, and Jongieux is one of several named crus within it. Carrel's red Jongieux is 100% Mondeuse, a lovely variety, light yet serious, with fine acidity; some of his vines are over a century old. His Jacquère was fresh and minerally, with a hint of melon, very different from the peachy, perfumed Jacquères we tried farther south.

造成这种差异的原因是一场古老的灾难:1248年的大地滑坡,当时蒙特格兰纳(Mont Granier)的一部分倒下,留下了浓郁的红色和蓝色粘土土壤和一堆石灰石瓦砾。这些粘土就是为什么Apremont酿酒师JérémyDupraz的原因,Apremon亚搏电竞t的Jacquère如此特别的原因。迈斯的酿酒师菲亚搏电竞利普·拉维尔(Philippe Ravier)和米歇尔·奎纳德(Michel Quenard)在科托(Coteau deTorméry)的几分钟路程中都谈到了1248年的重要性,这可能是因为他们每个人都做了一个雅克·莱斯·阿伯斯(JacquèreLes Abymes)。莱斯·阿伯斯(Les Abymes)的意思是“峡谷”,而这种cr的葡萄树在石灰石和马尔(Marl)的遗迹上生长。

The collapse of the mountain also produced other miracles: Leaving Ravier, we passed an enormous golden Virgin Mary, shining in the sunlight atop the church of Our Lady of Myans. The great rockfall stopped short here, sparing the church. Nearly 800 years later, nobody has forgotten.

Michel Quenard, working now with his son Guillaume, has a cozy wooden tasting room and 54 acres of vines on steep, rocky slopes. Even better than his Les Abymes were three rich, stone-fruity whites made from Roussanne-known here as Bergeron-though Guillaume groused that the grape is twice as much work as Jacquère.

从Chamonix到Chamonix,我们乘坐7,500英尺的缆车登上了当地向导ClaireThiolière,以备远足,以升起几种食欲,过去的落叶石和松树,明亮的紫色燃烟草花,以及为缆车的残骸以及服务的剩余1924年冬季奥运会。Thiolière知道历史,地质和植物学;更好的是,她知道所有最好的避难所 - 简单的山顶餐厅,设有迷人的户外露台和卧室,适合认真的登山者。在一个中,我尝试了Diots Au Vin Blanc,该地区用白葡萄酒烹制的美味猪肉香肠。亚搏电竞在另一个中,一系列蛋糕远远超过了视图 - 客栈老板克劳德·奎诺特(Claude Quenot)是一位受过训练的糕点厨师。甚至距意大利四英里,距离瑞士八英里,这比埃菲尔铁塔更具法国风格。

Beyond these refuges lay another spectacular sight: la Mer de Glace, or "the sea of ice," France's longest glacier, bordered by dark gray moraine and towering, snow-streaked peaks. It is losing about 130 feet per year due to global warming, and because the ancient glaciers that once lumbered through this scenery are responsible for the vine-friendly soil, I'm doubly grateful to have seen it.

令人惊讶的是,那里有一条小齿轮铁路。在陡峭的火车回到夏顿郡之后,我们沿着Arve River步行到QC Terme Spa。他们的下一个计划开放是在纽约市,但是尽管新的美国水疗中心的特色可能与Chamonix一样多,而Chamonix一号可以与芬兰相抗衡,其中包括那些兼作电影院的桑拿浴室,但我不确定曼哈顿天际线可以匹配查莫尼克斯(Chamonix)最好的资产:一个直接面对戏剧性阿尔卑斯山的大型室外游泳池。

也许到现在为止,我们应该不受惊人的看法。从我们位于奥伯格·杜博伊斯·普林(Auberge du Bois Prin)的房间里,欧洲最高的山山(Mont Blanc)的萨沃亚德木屋的豪华版本显得如此近,几乎在我们的阳台上平衡了。在餐厅,所有者Emmanuel Renaut-A厨师在三米歇林星羊群DE SEL上本人,在Megève-Has 30分钟路程,安装了非常有才华的(非常年轻,在25岁)Xavier Aubel担任厨师。侍酒师德尔福(Delphine)的老人搭配了奥布尔(Aubel)的出色菜肴,并有一系列晦涩而美味的当地葡萄酒,这使我为我错过的葡萄园探访而变得松树,例如埃德蒙·雅克(Edmond Jacquin's),距离卡雷尔(亚搏电竞Carrel's)只有三分钟路程。无论您喜欢滑雪,登山还是品酒,总有另一个山坡要发现。亚搏电竞

夏天在萨瓦
Credit: SMB-AGENCEZOOM-SALINO

在哪里吃饭和喝

Le Refuge Du Plan De L'aiguille

It's quite a hike, but this is the place to try truly local cuisine and astonishing cakes (innkeeper Claude Quenot is a trained pâtissier) in unpretentious surroundings at over 7,000 feet above sea level in Chamonix. Closed in winter.(庇护所 - aiguille.com)

La Fine Bouche

这家在Chamonix的小餐厅用当地的食材,肉类或奶酪和更多的奶酪和奶酪搭配,用当地的食材制作了一个精美的火锅。(80 Place du Poilu)

LeBelvédère

Perch yourself out- side on the patio of this restaurant in Saint-Germain-la-Chambotte, and enjoy local cheeses, terrines, lake fish, and snails, accompanied by panoramic views over Lac du Bourget.(belvedere-la-chambotte.com)

LaSibérienne

三代冰淇淋制造商仅使用本地产品来制作神话般的口味。除了Aix-les-Bains和Chambéry的店员外,所有者Delphine Villard和Luciano Sanguinetti还设有一个时髦的冰淇淋推车,即Sib'mobile。(lasiberienneglaces.com)

住哪里

Hôtel L'Incomparable

This elegant new boutique hotel in Tresserve features rooms-and a bar, restaurant, pool, and terrace hot tub-that face the lake.(房间从228美元,酒店lincomparable.com)

Refuge Du Montenvers

This venerable refuge right beside the Mer de Glace glacier (and train station) is a scenic pit stop for local specialties and housemade lemonade; there are also wood-lined, comfortable if unpretentious bedrooms and a dormitory for hikers.(Rooms from $227,Refugedumontenvers.com/fr)

Auberge Du Bois Prin

来自梅格夫(Megève)弗洛克斯(The)的厨师伊曼纽尔·雷纳特(Emmanuel Renaut)的新事业,他的妻子克里斯汀(Kristine)是一家木屋风格的酒店,享有壮丽的景色,餐厅和户外露台都很棒。(263美元的房间,boisprin.com)

在哪里品尝

Domaine Carrel François Et Fils

Enjoy a glass of fresh, minerally Jacquère at this family-run estate in the small village of Jongieux.(domaine-carrel-francois-et-fils.fr)

Domaine Dupraz

Try the more perfumed Jacquère of Apremont at the Dupraz family estate, where winemaking runs six generations deep.(domainingupraz.com)

Philippe&Sylvain Ravier

最好从山上欣赏山脉的露台上享受着Raviers的桃红色和芳香的JacquèreLes Abymes。(vinsravier.fr)

André & Michel Quenard

品尝Quenard家族在一个可爱的木制品尝室中用Bergeron制成的石头白色。(am-quenard.fr)

要做的事情

QC Terme水疗

Jaw-dropping mountain views while submerged in a large heated pool? Yes, please.(qcterme.com/en/chamonix-mont-blanc)

与克莱尔·硫代(ClaireThioliére)一起旅行

From history and botany to geology and food, local guide Claire Thiolière knows her stuff and takes visitors on tours of the region.(emailclairethioliere@orange.fr)

上面列出的每个酿酒厂,酒亚搏电竞店和企业都在撰写本地遵循当地的Covid安全协议。

June 2021