Nyesha Arrington’s New L.A. Restaurant Is as Hyperlocal as It Gets

在圣诞节周的星期三早晨，就像每个星期三早晨一样，洛杉矶厨师Nyesha Arrington去了圣莫尼卡农贸市场。她的密友韦瑟家庭农场的亚历克斯·韦瑟（Alex WeiserNative，她于11月开业的圣塔莫尼卡餐厅。Briar Patch Farm拥有美丽的Hachiya Persmons，Arrington兴奋地过度成熟并用于甜点。

Even in Santa Monica, where you can find季节性烹饪在modern diners, Native stands out as a hyperlocal restaurant. Arrington lives, works and shops in the neighborhood while also venturing out to other farmers markets and supporting other local purveyors.

阿灵顿说：“我们所服务的很多是基于农民感到兴奋的。”

Native, as you might guess from its name, is a restaurant that’s inspired by the diverse cultures, ingredients and flavors of L.A. Arrington is black and Korean and recently discovered, after her boyfriend gave her an 23andMe ancestry kit, that she also has Japanese and Cherokee roots. And her cooking career includes gigs at JiRaffe, Melisse and Joël Robuchon’s Las Vegas restaurants, so she knows every classic French technique imaginable.

The Romanesco special Arrington has been making is inspired by Mexican street corn and is cooked over open fire. The dish also involves triple-blanching garlic, a technique Arrington learned at Josiah Citrin’s Melisse. The dish also involves slow-roasting sesame seeds for tahini. Arrington remembers spending lots of time as a child in the kitchen with her immigrant Korean grandmother, Ai-Soon Lee, who would stress things like the importance of preparing sesame seeds the right way.

“你不能伪造那个放克，”阿灵顿回忆起她的祖母教她。“你知道什么时候芝麻种子不正确。”

Arrington, who’s “very passionate about food sustainability,” blends the Romanesco’s leaves and outer stems into an aioli for a dish that also involves smoked Italian cheese and both Mexican and Korean spices. It’s a great example of how the chef melds together so many flavors and influences to make L.A. food that, as she likes to say, “hugs the soul.”

阿灵顿（Arringto亚搏电竞n）的食物庆祝老式的家庭烹饪和“能够了解血统的来源”的喜悦，同时还以精细的饮食和现代技术编织。“对产品充满热情的农民和工匠以及“从全球的角度将人们联系在一起的人”带来的乐趣，增强了她的烹饪。本地人是洛杉矶一家餐厅。

The L.A.-born Arrington (who remembers being in her grandmother’s kitchen learning how to blanch vegetables and peeling five pounds of garlic as quickly as possible so she could go outside and play) creates comfort in the form of short rib “rolled” dumplings that transport her back to childhood in a way.

阿灵顿谈到这道菜时说：“这是我祖母的直接灵感。”“每个假期，每个家庭聚会，我的妈妈，姐姐和奶奶都会用报纸覆盖桌子，制作三个不同的填充物，并将饺子推出数小时，然后聊天。我记得那个。我称其为食物数据；亚搏电竞这样的事情以某种方式打击了您。它生活在你的灵魂中。那狗屎是如此强大。”

利昂娜,阿灵顿的前再保险staurant in Venice, one of her popular dishes was lamb belly wontons created with wonton skins she purchased. At Native, Arrington wanted to create her own dough. Her classical training, which involved rolling out a lot of pasta dough, helped.

Native’s dumplings, filled with braised and shredded short ribs and served atop the beef jus that results from preparing the dish, currently have a garnish of charred Brussels sprouts and cipollini onions. But that garnish, of course, will change seasonally.

当地人的其他曲子菜包括五花肉式烤鸭胸，卷心菜和大理石黑麦。这是阿灵顿（Arrington）决定制作的Entree，因为她喜欢吃糕点三明治。

然后是栗子意大利面条，其中包括用蘑菇茎制成的鲜味的蛋糕。鲜味的蘑菇混合在另一个层次上，这些蘑菇被散努克斯（Shiitakes）标题为标题，然后在盘子和几滴陈年的酱油结束时再次拨打。

还记得那些在农贸市场上的柿子吗？阿灵顿超越了他们，

将它们铲出，并与塔拉贡油一起用烤香草奶油奶油奶油搭配。

加利福尼亚冬天，当60度的天数使人们渴望烘焙香料而市场仍然有各种华丽的农产品时，厨师可以像这样玩乐。

当我和阿灵顿（Arrington）讲话时，她在圣莫尼卡（Santa Monica）的露台上，感觉到一月的阳光在她的脸上闪耀着温暖，因为她告诉我冬天在冬天为草莓服务看起来有些奇怪。但是她发现了一些光荣的海景草莓，所以她决定制作一种特殊的草莓甜点。首先，她用200度烤箱用一些烘焙香料烤了草莓约12小时。然后，她拿出香料，用烤草莓用冷冻的泰国椰子水创建了格兰尼塔。

It’s a dessert, Arrington points out, that makes more sense in Santa Monica than, say, Hollywood or Mid-City. Santa Monica has L.A.’s most prominent farmers market and it’s also a beachside community. It just feels right to have a refreshing dessert of strawberries and coconut at the new hyperlocal neighborhood restaurant.