What It's Like to Dine at Rome's Only Three-Michelin-Star Restaurant

我在国外有许多亲戚的第三代意大利人，我一生都拜访了意大利，比外交官更多地拜访了罗马菲米西诺的次数。虽然我不敢说我​​是罗马expert—because an Italian person would emerge to quiz me or tell me I'm wrong—I've collected my haunts: there's my favorite gelato place (Gelateria Della Palma), my favorite trattoria (La Taverna Dei Quaranta), my favorite place to drink wine while eating meats (Roscioli), and so many more spots I'd never share publicly and risk ruining. So this spring, on a pecorino-fueled retreat to the Eternal City, I decided to branch out in a big way, dining somewhere outside of my familiar Roman routine:La Pergola，罗马唯一一家拥有三位米其林明星的餐厅。精美的餐具机构亚搏电竞食品和葡萄酒亚搏电竞一旦宣布为“值得朝圣”—is被认为是亨茨·贝克厨师的杰作.

Whenever I'm in Italy, I'm obsessive about finding the trattorias, osterias, and enotecas frequented by locals (though this is sometimes difficult in Rome), and I generally eschew Italian fine dining in favor of hyper-local pasta shapes served in hyper-local sauces that, a few kilometers over, are unrecognizable. Located at the top of the罗马Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria Resort在第九层，凝视着伟大的，像罗马的电影景色一样，拉佩尔戈拉会有所不同。它提供了您在意大利可以找到的最奢侈的品尝菜单之一，这是一个建立在Trattorias的国家。当我在餐厅的别致酒吧里喝了一个精美的餐前Negroni时，我惊叹于我非常了解的罗马全景，但不是这样。

但是，在我前往罗马卡瓦里里（Rome Cavalieri）晚餐的旅程之前，我曾在大厅里徘徊，这是该市最好的无线艺术秘密之一。Tieopolo Lounge本质上是一家精美的威尼斯杰作画廊，其中包括弗朗切斯科·德尔·凯罗（Francesco del Cairo），扬·范·奥利（Jan Van Orley）等艺术家的价值数百万美元，最值得注意的是乔瓦尼·巴蒂斯塔·蒂波洛（Giovanni Battista Tiepolo）。我很高兴地发现，在九楼，拉佩尔戈拉（La Pergola）继续这种艺术敏感性 - 如果您在那里用餐，您也应该计划尽早到达卡瓦里里（Cavalieri），欣赏Tiepolos和大量的18世纪早期的挂毯，将范·奥利（Van Orley）的火星。

At the restaurant, the casual abundance of rare artifacts—including 18th-century candelabras and hand-blown glass by Emile Galléa—and the view of the cityscape rivaled only by private helicopters enlivens an already shiny dining experience. Beck brings an artistic sensibility and French precision to Italian gastronomic traditions, melding avant-garde technique with the regional products that make Italian food sing: Umbrian truffles, onion jam from Tropea, radicchio from Treviso, vintage balsamic vinegars, and a cart of Lazio's best cheeses when the meal dances toward dessert.

十二页的水菜单（是的，水菜单）甚至是我阅读的各种类别的最牢固性怀疑（我），该类别由“根据总溶解的固体列出”而组织；“意大利的来源”；“外国来源”；“真正的特殊”；和“最后但并非最豪华的瓶子”，所有这些都对泡腾和矿物质水平进行了生动的描述。您可能会猜到，餐厅以类似的严谨和创造力接近葡萄酒。亚搏电竞2500种标签的酒单具有世界上一亚搏电竞些最稀有，最昂贵的葡萄酒。La Pergola在酒店亚搏电竞下面的酒窖以其70,000多的瓶子，价值数百万美元的瓶子，包括19世纪，以及其他地方无法坦率的葡萄酒。

And then there's the food. The menu honors Italian regionality while offering a global point of view, down to each grain of salt. During bread service, a server offered a tray of colorful salts from around the world—when I dined, there were six, including Alaea salt from Hawaii and a smoky, yellowish one from Norway. They all added something special to the housemade breads, my favorites being the pillowy focaccia and crusty rolls just like you'd find at your favoritepanificio.

“美食菜单”是一个十道菜品尝菜单，价格为260,00欧元；是的，是的，但是当您注意到Entrées悬停在70欧元左右时，有点有价值。的确，La Pergola是生日，周年纪念日，建议和商人的特殊场合，他们聚集只是因为他们可以。四月在那里用餐时，我带了我的母亲，母亲的父亲（我的祖父）在拉齐奥地区出生和长大，然后于19岁移民到美国。意大利烹饪消失了，因为我们被贝克震惊和执行的视野所吸引。镀金虽然复杂，但热情而有趣。这些成分虽然昂贵，但很熟悉，但总是在我们长大的爱心质朴的意大利餐点上打手势。毕竟，新鲜的面食是新鲜的意大利面是新鲜的意大利面，贝克做对了。我们精致的tortelli，上面是黑色的黑松露和精美的微果卷曲，引导了一个世纪以上的博洛尼亚trattoria的精神。

《米其林指南》于2005年首次授予La Pergola三星级，这是罗马餐厅的第一家三星级餐厅。从那以后，意大利美食就获得了更多的国际知名度，即Massimo Bottura的客栈Francescanain Modena topping just about every global "best of" list. Yet La Pergola has endured and evolved, remaining singular and necessary in Rome's growing restaurant scene.

贝克的招牌菜是Fagotelli“ La Pergola”，其名称是意大利传统，即以Trattoria的风格生成菜肴。丝滑的面食包膜奶油carbonara酱，形成甜美的包裹，上面贴满了脆脆的披披披披舞和西葫芦：一种精致而令人满意的罗马菜肴，可实现一种强大的壮举 - 在Carbonara上riff而不会破坏它。

The chef has called the pasta "an explosion of warm, rich flavor," and that his intention “is to transmit emotions through harmoniously balanced aromas, flavors and colors – sensory stimuli which are intertwined and blended in suffused and refined surroundings.”

我希望，情感上的美食会留在这里。

La Pergola，罗马卡瓦里里（Rome Cavalieri），华尔道夫（Waldorf）阿斯托里亚酒店和度假村，通过阿尔贝托·卡多洛（Alberto Cadolo）101