A Return to Indigenous Mexican Cooking in New York City
萨维德拉说：“看到人们扔'mole'，就像这是另一种牧场的调味料，而不是传统的饭菜，这确实让我感到困扰。”“它具有历史。它是非常有意义的。如果我们至少可以在应有的信誉的情况下给予信誉，并承认这些食物是由土著人民制造的，属于土著人民，可以帮助建立[意识]。”亚搏电竞
墨西哥美食，如果您甚至可以对其进行分类，则是西班牙美食和土著食材和技术的融合，这些成分和技术早于欧洲殖民化。这既是古老的和新世界。然而，许多食客无意中的简化墨西哥食品是豆类，玉米饼，肉类和奶酪的旋转组合。亚搏电竞土著美食大部分被排除在谈话之外，即使在该国最精致的餐饮首都，纽约市也是如此。
我们吃的许多墨西哥食品，例如痣，都有被忽亚搏电竞视或完全擦除的土著起源。摩尔是一种有时基于巧克力和智利的酱汁，非常复杂。不仅就其使用的成分和香料数量而言，而且还需要花费数天的时间，并且涉及整个pueblos。传统上，土著墨西哥妇女会手工吐痰并磨碎新鲜香料：干辣椒，花生，芝麻，巧克力，肉桂，茴香等。mole来自土著nahuatl单词mōlli，意为“酱汁”。毫无戒心的食客可能已经将这个土著词看作是鳄梨调味酱词源根的一部分。
In the Bronx, Saavedra and her sister, sous chef Carolina, are co-owners of the female-, undocumented-, and family-run restaurant La Morada, where they work alongside their mother, Natalia. Their family is Indigenous, and they've carefully preserved the recipes that were handed down by generations (including their famed mole) from the mountainous town of San Miguel Ahuehuetitlán in northwestern Oaxaca, bringing them to life in the south Bronx. They strive to honor their Indigenous ancestors through their menu.
La Morada is joined by a growing number of New York City Mexican restaurants that are centering Indigenous practices and ingredients. However, there remains a large gap in awareness. "I don't think New Yorkers know what Indigenous food is," says Carolina. "You know how Americans think Mexican food is Taco Bell? Even if it was explained to their face, Indigenous food is so disconnected from Mexican food and alway seen as lesser than."
La Morada makes a point to label the Indigenous foods on its menu. El sope is an Indigenous dish found across many New York City restaurants that diners might not know is actually Indigenous. At La Morada, el sope is a flat fried masa base with a lip and toppings like beans, cheese, and seasonal ingredients. "Seasonality is an essential part of Indigenous cooking," says Carolina.
La Morada提供的鱼雷形tlacoyos和薄脆皮Tlayudas也是土著。卡罗来纳州用土著语言说，“ TL”是玉米的衍生物，因此，以“ ty”开头的菜是基于玉米的一餐。土著人民创造了晒干的chilaquiles，以保存任何额外的玉米饼。Molcajete实际上是由绿色和红色墨西哥莎莎酱制成的土著船只。La Morada提供菜单的一部分，提供该船和新鲜农产品。
"There are no plates, forks or knives in Indigenous cooking," says Carolina. "Your tortilla is your napkin and fork."
墨西哥食材的母亲是Maíz，Maíz是瓦哈坎州的原产地，那里的第一个证据证明其驯化是植根于巴尔萨斯河谷9，000年ago. In fact, corn is the main vehicle for many of the NYC chefs who are spotlighting Indigenous Mexican cooking.
厨师Zack Wangeman（El Cellar de Can Roca，本身）和耶稣Perea（Cosme，Pujol，Cacao Prieto）Sobre Masa在威廉斯堡，布鲁克林，努力向公众教育土著美食及其在墨西哥食品中的重要地位，尤其是通过玉米文化。亚搏电竞佩里亚（Perea）来自普韦布拉（Puebla），在布朗克斯（Bronx）长大，而旺格曼（Wangeman）来自瓦哈卡（Oaxaca），来自美国的父亲，来自米歇纳（Michoacan）的母亲。他们非常关注自己的Masa：玉米是来自墨西哥的生产商和内部尼克塔马尔的。（Nixtamalization是将玉米浸入碱性水中，烹饪并将其磨成面粉的古老过程，然后将其用于制作诸如玉米饼，玉米饼，玉米饼，炸玉米饼，玉米饼，成员，tetelas和tlayudas之类的物品。）
尽管尼克斯塔马尔化的劳动密集型工作，但旺格曼和佩里亚没有捷径。他们从Teotitlan del Valle购买痣，因为不可能采购纽约市的合适成分。他们最近与FundaciónTortilla进行了一系列筹款活动，试图节省一些非常古老的流行玉米种子。
"We try to mix it up by offering something familiar with unfamiliar things," says Wangerman. "We have tlacoyos which are filled with faba bean purée that is seasoned heavily with avocado leaf. Or empanada of mole amarillo is just as if you would have it in Oaxaca. For dinner, we have molotes and mole negro."
纽约市餐厅的新景象是Kuxé，旨在纪念菜单上的土著食谱的另一家餐厅。这是厨师朱利安·麦地那（Julian Medina）的最新概念，位于格林威治村（Greenwich Village）。这家餐厅是地道的Fonda（例如小酒馆或小型旅馆），以玉米的土著墨西哥词命名。Kuxé并不是严格的土著烹饪，但麦地那（Medina）在菜单上经常使用前西班牙裔成分，这突出了Cocina de Pueblo（乡村烹饪）和每个团队成员的食谱。
"At Kuxé, we prepare Indigenous ingredients in approachable and familiar ways and our hope is that our guests will better understand these ingredients," says Medina. That means using Indigenous or pre-Hispanic ingredients like corn, moles, chiles, and nopales, and using traditional cooking methods when possible. Their mole poblano uses four different kinds of chiles, cinnamon, chocolate, and普拉塔诺斯。
They also make their own masa for tortillas, machetes, and picaditas with ingredients imported directly from Oaxaca using a molino, the traditional corn grinder, as well as nixtamalization.
旺格曼认为纽约人并不熟悉土著食品，因为“……这是不可用的。”亚搏电竞他解释说，与墨西哥烹饪非常相关的香菜来自东南亚。与侮辱性墨西哥食物有关的草药包括Hoja Santa，Epazote，P亚搏电竞apalo，Chepil和Hierba de Conejo等。
他说：“其中一半甚至都不可用。”“我认为问题主要是缺乏信息。这是一种如此巨大的美食。即使在瓦哈卡（Oaxaca）长大后，每次我去市场时，我都会了解我对新的辣椒或草药的了解。”
Medina shares that while there are all different types of Mexican restaurant concepts in New York City, they are mostly "just inspired by Mexican ingredients or flavors."
Carolina, of La Morada, feels that there is an active erasure of Indigenous cooking traditions. "Chefs and the media should take the blame — people don't do their research," she says. "It is a conjunction of things that cause erasure. It is the onus of the chef to educate the diners. And they don't do it."
为了向公众宣传，她为土著美食推广了一种“表格教育”方法，类似于侍酒师如何解释葡萄酒的起源，品种和风土，同时为客户详细浇注杯子。亚搏电竞卡罗来纳州说：“解释需要30秒钟才能解释。”Community Education coordinatorat Blue Hill at Stone Barns.
Beyond educating the public about Indigenous cuisine, Carolina is committed to raising awareness about the lived experiences of Indigenous people—the people who preserve the foodways from which people profit.
她说：“如果您的意图是从您自己的文化中烹饪食物的资本主义，请把钱放在您的嘴里，并将资本放回人亚搏电竞们，农场和农场工人身上。”“您正在窃取我们的食谱，甚至没有尊重我们现在正在经历一个沉默的种族灭绝的事实。造成痣和玉米饼的人正面临着与公司最讨厌的战斗，并难以获得清洁水和不受污染污染的清洁水和造成污染。”
她继续说：“通过厨师从自己的文化中夺走厨师，而不是自己说的文化，解释了它来自何处或给予土著人民的信誉 - 您在赚钱时还在做什么来帮助这些人？”