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Dave Beranis standing tableside, carving a duck carcass on a 1950s tea cart, and the excitement is building. He’s atPasjoli., his new “elevated bistro” inLos Angeles, and diners all over the gleaming restaurant are checking out the action. Pieces of duck, including the heart and liver Beran got from aHudson Valleyfarm and put back into the bird, are placed in an early-1900s duck press. Beran says it’s important to have offal, which also includes the lungs, because it gives the pressed juices from the farmed duck a stronger flavor that resembles wild duck.

“我们仍然秉承这种非常不同的味道概况的这种血腥的鸟类，”他说。

鸭子已经烤到罕见,和legs, wings, and breast have been removed. The legs have already arrived at the table in a duck-confit salad with lettuce (misted with sherry vinegar), a duck-drippings vinaigrette, crispy skin, and yeast salt (“for a bready element without actually adding bread”). The breast gets finished in Pasjoli’s open kitchen while Beran is tableside. He vigorously twirls the duck press, which results in a teacup of reddish liquid that he combines with duck jus, red wine, pepper, and Cognac in a pan atop a portable burner. Then the breast arrives from the kitchen, and he spoons the sauce over it.

Pressing the duck and making the iron-rich sauce is an eight-minute process at Pasjoli, which translates to “not pretty” in French. It takes another seven minutes to get the press, which Beran’s business partners found at an estate sale, ready for the next duck. This duck dish is limited to 10 orders a night. Most are pre-ordered, and Pasjoli has been selling out of duck every single night. Beran says he will get another antique press, which he purchased from an Ohio duck hunter, next week. So Pasjoli will soon be able to offer 20 ducks a night if the demand is there. Or maybe Beran will use the second press for lobster.

奢侈的休闲可能听起来像矛盾，但它也是一种准确的方式来描述在圣莫尼卡的主要街道上的Pasjoli发生了什么。

“我们想乐趣而且没有闷，”Beran说。“做一些事情是法国食物的有趣方面。”亚搏电竞

Pasjoli.i is also a restaurant where you can stroll in and have a salad, some beef tartare, and a baguette with French butter at the bar. It’s no doubt less formal than Chicago’s Alinea (where Beran was chef de cuisine and “always loved when there was something that happened at the table”) and Next (where he became a 2014亚搏电竞食品和葡萄酒亚搏电竞最好的新厨师). It’s also more casual than对话，Beran’sMichelin-starred品尝菜单餐厅在圣莫尼卡。

但是，伯兰明白，Pasjoli可能是很多人全年访问的最多的餐厅。鱼子酱服务发生在黄铜鸡尾酒车上：保加利亚金色奥特拉罗（在对话中服务的鱼子酱相同的鱼子酱）在1840年代的邮政规模上仔细称重。少量鱼子酱的规模提示放置在它上面。Beran说，这在多个层面上很好地工作。一方面，它可以帮助食客了解实际上的鱼子体的一盎司鱼子酱。

而且：“它鼓励人们喜欢，”哦，让我们得到更多，“”贝兰说。“是兴奋的。这成为一场比赛。“

Pasjoli于9月18日开业，已经有两套客人订购了四盎司的鱼子酱。Beran说他也喜欢做一些小事，因为这是一种让客户“觉得他们是厨房的一部分”方法。

Beran often talks about intent when he discusses his food.

“I always hate when people do things just to do them,” he says. “I didn’t want to start doing tableside things without making them things worth doing tableside. For us, I don’t think it was about the extravagance of it. It was about having a purpose and a reason why we would do it this way. We looked at the caviar more from the perspective of, ‘Here’s a way to inform the diner and show them what’s happening.’”

Meanwhile, it’s obvious why the duck, which is based on an Escoffier recipe, is done tableside. There’s no better, more dazzling, or more thoughtful way to present it.

“我只是认为它让它对晚餐感到有点个人，”伯兰说。“他们的食物来自哪里变形。亚搏电竞”

与在开放式厨房里被迫被压在鸭子的小对话不同，Beran有一个在Pasjoli周围操纵推车的空间。他一直在考虑长期以来服务鸭子。当他下次是行政厨师时，他深入研究了法国烹饪，因为他创造了两个Paris主题菜单：1906（Escoffier）和小酒馆。他在餐馆和其他地方试验野鸭。（他的岳父是鸭子猎人，所以伯兰在他去过圣诞节时带来了他的新闻。）他了解到野生鸟类的“膳食”是他不想要的东西。

Beran like to point out that Pasjoli’s duck course “really goes a different direction than every other duck dish.” He’s not serving dry-aged or smoked duck because “the whole thing with the duck press is it has to showcase the freshness.” It goes back to the idea of how hunters consume food.

Pasjoli是一家由旧世界技术启发的餐厅，也是洛杉矶在2019年吃的东西。

“当你说法国食物时，大多数人，尤其是我和我亚搏电竞一起吃的美国人，想想这种沉重的，重量的事情，”贝兰说。“这是'奶油这'和'黄油。'我们想要[pasjoli]不是那种法国食物。亚搏电竞因此，而不是查找可比餐馆，我们走了另一个方向，并说：“我们没有什么比我们想在这里做的事情。”我们真的只想让它拥有自己的身份，有自己的感受。“

是的,Beran服务酱blanque牛肉的脸颊tte. But the meat isn’t drenched in cream, and there are shaved vegetables and herbs all over the plate. Yes, Beran is excited to have chef de cuisine Matthew Kim add chalkboard specials like pig trotters. But Pasjoli also serves a lot of seafood and has its own farmers-market specialist, McKenna Lelah, bringing in produce for hyper-seasonal dishes. There’s a simple and excellent dessert of market fruit like figs and berries alongside whipped crème anglaise and lemon shortbread.

Of course, Pasjoli also has a dessert that’s presented tableside. The baba au rhum is cut in half and warmed in a pan with your choice of aged rum, house-spiced rum, or a non-alcoholic version of house-spiced rum. Then the cake is plated with walnuts and Chantilly cream. You’re also given an ounce of your preferred rum if you want to add more liquid or just have a little sip.

“我们创造了我们喜欢的东西，我想去，但我希望食客觉得他们有机会使自己成为自己，”Beran说Pasjoli说。“我们昨晚有一张桌子：那是他们第四次，他们下周预订了两次，因为他们想吃整个菜单。”

Pasjoli., 2732 Main St., Santa Monica, CA, 424-330-0020