改变游戏规则的卡洛斯·盖坦（Carlos Gaytan）与tzuco大回到芝加哥

Closing Mexique still stings chef卡洛斯·盖坦（Carlos Gaytan）.

“Mexique has always been very special for me. It put me on the map,” Gaytan said of his first restaurant—the one he earned a Michelin star for. “It was difficult to close. It hurt. But it’s something I’ll always be grateful for and will forever carry Mexique in my heart.”

同一周Gaytanannounced the close of Mexique, and left for Mexico, he promised to come back to Chicago. A year later,通过一个神秘的Instagram帖子in May 2018, Gaytan announced his return with Tzuco—the first of three restaurants housed under the same roof. Tzuco, scheduled to open on September 16 in the Gold Coast neighborhood, will kick off the chef's ambitious comeback.

The name of his new eatery is short for Huitzuco—his hometown and the place where he learned to cook alongside his mother Doña Teté. His family was poor, and they made a living by selling her cooking in town. It was a hard life that required hunting wild game, foraging in nearby fields, and overnight shifts to prepare the large batch of meals. By the time he became a teenager, Gaytan had mastered the art of slaughtering and dismantling agoat. The older he got, the more obvious it became he had no career prospects in the place he was born. Dreaming of a life bigger than what was in front of him, Gaytan decided to go to the United States. Using a friend’s passport, he arrived in the suburbs of Chicago and began his new career as a dishwasher at the Sheraton North Shore Hotel.

他会尽早到达工作，然后离开。这引起了前酒店厨师杰夫·米勒（Jeff Miller）的注意，他将盖坦（Gaytan）带到他的翅膀下，并教了他烹饪技能。最终，Gaytan成为厨师Garde Manger。他离开了酒店，与芝加哥联合联盟俱乐部（Union League Club of Chicago）一起出发，该俱乐部是全美总理的私人俱乐部。2004年，他成为Bistrot Margot的厨师De Cuisine，并与法国厨师多米尼克·塔格（Dominique Tougne）合作。在那里，盖坦学会了法国烹饪的艺术和精确度。

In May 2008, Gaytan opened Mexique in West Town, a part of Chicago that most people were not eager to explore—a芝加哥警察局报告showed the neighborhood had the second-highest crime rate in the city that year. The menu was unlike what most people associated with Mexican cuisine at the time. There were no margaritas, beans, or guacamole in sight. Instead, diners found themselves with options such as mahi pozole verde, pea tamal, and escolar in a spicy romesco sauce topped with a荷包蛋. His offerings—Mexican food fused借助法国烹饪技巧，他的烹饪生涯都得到了发展。

食物是一亚搏电竞种风险。该位置不理想。业务遭受了苦难。在他在2013年收到米其林明星的消息的前一天，梅克西克只有11个顾客，而盖坦正在考虑关闭他的餐厅。荣誉使他的生意转过身，并立即提高了保留率。它给了他时间。他成为第一位获得荣誉的墨西哥厨师，并持续了一年。

But by 2015, Mexique had lost the coveted Michelin star. And it would be another year before the neighborhood began to show signs of being the蓬勃发展的烹饪目的地it's now known as. That's the problem with visionaries—sometimes they show up before their time.

Gaytan似乎正在从他的过去学习。原定于9月16日开放的Tzuco不再是藏在城市远处的隐藏宝石。它坐落在时髦的黄金海岸附近，里面充满了酒店，繁忙的购物区和名人居民。它可容纳110个，并拥有Al Fresco用餐选择。客人可以期待各种海鲜 - shrimp，蛤，章鱼和鲑鱼 - 鸡肉，亚搏电竞猪肉，玉米饼和扁豆，并带有香料和辣椒味。

Panango, a grab-and-go panaderia, will open next. Sandwiches, salads, soups, and pastries will be sold in a Mexican tiled room. The design might look familiar to anyone who has visited El Moro in Mexico City because the two share the same architect. The fast-casual concept will open in October for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

最后三个是“卡洛斯·盖坦的故事”。16个座位的厨师品尝室将有自己的入口，并突出厨师旅行中的菜肴。yabo电竞投注预计将于11月开放。

Upscale Mexican food is no longer an anomaly. Diners have expanded their purview and palates. Global dining destinations such as Mi Tocaya, Quintonil, and Cosme—all of which opened after Mexique—are examples of how chefs have risen to meet the demand.

盖坦（Gaytan）的才华阵容包括来自AVEC，Dearborn，Acadia和Takashi的De Cuisine Andrew Kim厨师。从边境南部进口的是糕点厨师JesúsEscalera，在2018年世界上50家最佳餐厅列表中被宣告是拉丁美洲最好的糕点厨师。领导饮料计划的是Mica Rousseau，他在世界一流的比赛中被评为墨西哥2016年最优秀的调酒师，这使世界上最好的人才参加比赛。

Gaytan回想起他与女儿Caliani的谈话，当时他决定关闭Mexique并返回墨西哥。

“She said ‘everyone loves you [in Mexico]. As soon as you open a place it’s going to be packed and you’re going to be successful. But, you like a challenge. If you stay in Chicago you’re going to have to work really hard and it’s not going to be easy, but that will be the best for you.’ So I said, I’ll take the challenge.”