在哪里吃，喝酒和留在瓦哈卡

Juana Hernandez was not happy with the way I was making her玉米饼。A bunch of cooks from Noma were crowded into the courtyard of her restaurant,Mi Tierra Linda热气蒸腾,周围粘土烤盘筛nd tables piled high with chiles and herbs. We were on a five-week research trip before opening our pop-up in Tulum, and we’d been told we should get a lesson in Oaxacan cooking from Juana. I have my own taqueria in Copenhagen, Hija de Sanchez, and have been making tortillas the same way my entire life, massaging the masa and rolling balls in the palm of my hand. “No, no,” Juana said, correcting me and firmly turning my hand over so that my palm pressed out a larger, flatter disk. I wanted to explain that I make smaller tortillas, but why justify? Hers were amazing—supersoft and fluffy—so I held my tongue and watched the master at work.

那是我知道的那一刻，我必须再次回来烹饪这个令人难以置信的女人。这是一直发生的事情：瓦哈卡的一个旅行需要下一个，更深入，更美味的潜水进入文化和美食。作为一名厨师，特别是墨西哥美国厨师，没有地方兴奋地激励我到南方的这个崎岖地区，用小城镇点缀，围绕着瓦哈卡市锚定，拥有华丽的殖民地建筑和蜿蜒的鹅卵石街道。由于该地区的景观，瓦哈卡拥有陡峭的山脉和庞大的平原，是全国各地最好的土着Zapotec粮食道和本土食材的所在地。亚搏电竞这是我首先要了解对我烹饪遗产如此重要的食物的根源 -亚搏电竞玉米，辣椒，巧克力，当然，mezcal。

Growing up first generation in Little Village, Chicago, I thought I knew Mexican cooking. Living in an immigrant community like that, with tons of taquerias and vendors selling chile-lime-doused fruit on every corner, it feels like you’re in Mexico. When I went to cooking school to study pastry, I was completely separated from that part of my culture because everything was based in French technique. As I was learning the science behind soufflés and sauces, I felt like I should have been studying the complexity of moles and the process of nixtamalization that allows us to turn maize into masa. My dad, who usually supports everything I do, was totally against my wanting to go back to Mexico to research the food. I get it—my parents left for a reason, wanting a better life for my brother and me. But as I worked in restaurants, and moved from New York City to Europe, I started taking trips on my own. Seven years ago, when I visited Oaxaca for the first time, with Pujol’s chef Enrique Olvera, it was mind-blowing. I’d traveled around the country before and visited my parents’ hometowns (my mother is from Guanajuato; my dad, from San Luis Potosí), but everything in Oaxaca tasted brighter and more intense.

所以我回到了我得到的每一次机会，做饭和吃饭。我理想的第一餐始终是早餐Casa Oaxaca咖啡厅。The chef, Alejandro Ruiz, grew up here and has opened several restaurants, from this casual spot to the more formalCasa Oaxaca Restaurante.。我爱他Enfrijolada，刚煮熟的玉米饼配上鳄梨叶注入的豆子和新鲜的当地奶酪。这也是一个很好的地方，看看昆虫如何升高到舒适食物中：干燥和盐渍，用石灰和大蒜调味，亚搏电竞chapulines（蚱蜢）和霍尔吉斯（蚂蚁）不仅美味撒在菜肴中，它们也是聪明，可持续的蛋白质来源。

还有新的斑点，也有在过去的旅行中，我很高兴能够去Olvera的克里罗：名称是指原生，成分，成分，以及由Oaxaca出生的前普吉尔厨师Luis Arellano的厨房运行，服务于经典菜肴。他们的鳄梨是我尝试过的最好的，奶油本地鳄梨之一，含有几乎是甘草样的味道和一片芳香草药。

我也来到瓦哈卡购买Hija de Sanchez Pantry。由于该地区的气候，食材的各种和质量都像是一样的。对于NoMa墨西哥，我们是鳄梨叶，西红柿，像Hoja Santa这样的新鲜草药，chapulines- 甚至没有让我开始在辣椒上，从闪亮的棕色到深红色，都具有最浓的味道。玉米品种是大猩猩，我将他们发给他们的哥本哈根，让我们的日常尼克萨尔磨入Masa。每种颜色都有不同的特性，具体取决于季节和不断增长的条件：蓝色通常是坚固的，最适合Tlayudas，the ingredient-heavy flatbreads that are like large Oaxacan tostadas, and yellow is often more pliable and easier to work with, so I use it for tortillas.

我喜欢探索不同的市场，我总是发现一些新的东西。这次我被Doñavale迷住了雅典州亚洲省中心市场;在这个女人之后，有一个角落，她在用Lye治疗的巨大梳子上烹饪，这为食物增加了宜人的碱性味道。亚搏电竞对我来说，这是墨西哥的味道。我的好朋友Rafael Villalobos称她是市场的母亲，因为她为每个人做饭，供应商和购物者都是烹饪，他将食物带到阴影桌子吃饭。亚搏电竞它在最后一次旅行中有最好的饭菜：玉米馅饼，叫做梅梅莱斯，topped with pork lard, black bean paste and queso fresco. Other market snacks I seek out are克萨迪亚斯filled with squash blossoms and quesillo Oaxaca, which tastes like the best mozzarella you can imagine, and, at a stand called Vero’s, eggs cracked into slit-opened tortillas with torn hoja santa leaves. I get lost in the rows of meat vendors and vegetable stalls and beautiful arrangements of fruit. Weaving through the crowds and carrying baskets on their heads are home cooks selling the large tortillas for which this region is famed.

这些奥克萨卡的勤劳女性是我的老师和我的启示舞，像Mezcal MasterGracielaÁngelesCarreño，最近从她父亲那里接管这个男性主导的行业。当她带领我身边时Mezcal Real Minero酒厂那通过英亩的尖刺龙舌兰植物piñas.（心脏）她收获烤，捣碎和发酵，明确了为什么这是我品尝过的最优秀的梅斯卡斯之一。

然后是我的玉米饼，我的玉米饼讲师，我很高兴再次做饭。这一次，我想知道她是如何制造鼹鼠黑人，瓦哈卡最复杂的菜肴，每个厨师都以自己的方式准备。Juana拔出了成分，开始敬酒一些梳子，剪贴其他火焰：洋葱，西红柿，大蒜，面包片，玉米饼，香蕉为甜味，巧克力深度，芝麻籽，你称之为。在磨削和将它放在锅中的火焰中，她搅动了鼹鼠到正确的一致性，然后走开并告诉我接管，味道和季节。我问她酱应该煮了多长时间。随着梅苏尔的啜饮和一个明智的笑容，她回答说：“直到你认为它准备好了。”

Casa Oaxaca.
距离咖啡厅和餐厅的姐妹酒店有简约的住宿和一个宽松的花园，您可以在那里坐落游泳池。每晚167美元;casaoaxaca.com.mx。

Quinta真正的瓦哈卡
这家豪华的酒店坐落在前修道院，设有一个大型游泳池，一个可爱的庭院和豪华的客房。每晚219美元;quintareal.com。

Casa Oaxaca咖啡厅
Come for the amazing breakfast in the leafy garden, stay for conversation with Alejandro Ruiz, the amiable chef.casaoaxacacafe.com。

Central de Abastos Market
This sprawling food market is a great place for lunch, with dozens of vendors preparing meals on the spot.Between Juárez Maza and Calle de Victoria.

克里罗
Enrique Olvera的新餐厅在Mod Space的经典Oxacan菜肴上供应创意进程，设有户外用餐室。criollo.mx。

拉特埃卡
Deyanira Aquino脱离了人迹罕至的路径，供应传统的Istmeño区域美食。Calle Violetas 200。

Mi Tierra Linda
Juana Hernandez的休闲餐厅有45分钟车程，是该地区一些最佳痣的所在地。Calle Ignacio López Rayón 7.

Mezcaloteca.
在瓦哈卡签名精神的教育中，在市中心的这间酒吧/教室里预订品尝：提供近100个优惠。mezcaloteca.com.。

Mezcal Real Minero
GracielaÁngelesCarreño的酿酒厂是一个农场到玻璃操作：在沉淀到品酒室之前，游览龙舌兰作物。realminero.com.mx.。

据说Dana Bowen