Pilgrimage to L.A.'s Kogi

I have nothing but respect for people who religiously follow theKogi truckaround Los Angeles (and extra respect for someone named Shirley who hits the truck every single day and has her own spot for her lawn chair the wayPhilip Johnson always had table 32at the Four Seasons). But since I found out that Kogi has established an outpost at theAlibi Roomwhere I can avoid the lines, I took the lazy way out and headed straight there. I’d already tasted the Kogi dog—we published the awesome recipe inF&W’s August issue—so I went for the three taco combo made with homemade tortillas; short ribs with cilantro-infused lime relish; spicy pork belly; and BBQ chicken. But my very favorite thing was the Blackjack Quesadilla, a ridiculously good mix of caramelized pork, kimchi, salsa verde and melted jack and cheddar cheeses. Chef Roy Choi named it to honor 20 or so Kogi fans who caravaned from Las Vegas just to hit the truck, and texted in a request for something with kimchi and pork.