Las Vegas Finally Gets the Neighborhood Restaurants It Deserves

There’s a trend inLas Vegasthat’s making the off-Strip dining scene a lot more delicious. It’s called the neighborhood restaurant.

“There’s this restaurant in every neighborhood in Los Angeles,” says James Trees, the chef at以斯帖的厨房, an Italian hot spot in the Vegas Arts District. “There’s no one else doing anything like this in Vegas. There’s a huge gap, and we’re just filling that gap, which is the reason we’re busy.”

树木，为迈克尔·米娜（Michael Mina）开设了五家餐厅，并在洛杉矶烹饪了雷·加西亚（Ray Garcia）的厨师如图保罗·希伯勒（Paul Hibler）的Superba餐厅集团（Superba Restaurant Group）的行政总厨是几位在拉斯维加斯经营新的外部目的地的才华横溢的烹饪运营商之一。

There’s Sheridan Su, who was just named a詹姆斯·比尔德奖半决赛选手因为他的世界一流的海南鸡Flock & Fowl。Su, who grew up in L.A.’s圣加布里埃尔谷, previously cooked atSonain L.A. Then in Vegas, he worked at乔·罗布钦（JoëlRobuchon）atthe Mansionbefore becoming executive chef atComme Ça。

有Vincent Rotolo，纽约餐厅的老将，经营着房子肉丸店下东区和威廉斯堡的地点。rotolo的好派in downtown Vegas slings Brooklyn-style pizza that’s more Brooklyn than a lot of what you’ll find in Brooklyn. On the afternoon we visit, Rotolo’s pal Nino Coniglio, theaward-winning pizza-maker在后面Williamsburg Pizza, is there to help ensure that the pies meet New York standards.

有丹妮尔·克劳奇（Danielle Crouch）和艾伦·卡兹（Allan Katz）Here’s Looking at You, an L.A. restaurant that opened in 2016 and made so many local and national best-of lists. Crouch and Katz just opened Jammyland, a deeply personal bar inside an old garage in the Vegas Arts District.

Talk to any of these new-school operators for a little bit and they’ll likely tell you about how they want to create a community, how Vegas can feel like a small town where everybody knows everybody, and how the low cost of living and low cost of doing business here is attracting a lot of talented people from California and beyond. They’ll tell you they want to offer both locals and tourists an alternative to paying for parking on the Strip and then spending $100-per-person for dinner. And, perhaps most important of all, they’ll tell you that having their own spot allows them to break the rules while sweating every single detail themselves.

“The joke is just that I’m doing this whole thing wrong,” says Trees, who’s often at Esther’s Kitchen baking bread or cleaning his hood system when the restaurant is closed. “I wash dishes. That’s what I do. I’m that guy.”

或者考虑布莱恩·霍华德,佤邦s previously the executive chef atComme Ça在Bouchon和Kerry Simon's做饭之后Cathouse。霍华德打开了Sparrow + Wolfin Chinatown last year, and his modern American cooking has made him the darling of local media. His restaurant is busy every night, with two-hour waits on some weekends. And yet, Howard is willing to tear apart his menu and start over. He tells us that he’s replaced 21 items (only the Chinatown clams casino and the campfire duck remain) and he’s ready to switch out ten more. He’s also in the process of adding some surprises as he expands the Sparrow + Wolf space.

Thanks to boundary-breaking chefs like Howard, eating and drinking off-Strip is a delight in 2018. It’s an experience that makes you believe anything can happen. Here are five spots bursting with pure possibility:

以斯帖的厨房is a triumphant homecoming for chef James Trees, who was born and raised in Vegas and named his Arts District restaurant after his great-aunt.

树木说：“当我们做经典时，我们就会做经典。”他用自己的瓜西亚（Guanciale）来运输自己的吉西亚（Guanciale）运输Bucatini All’Amatricana，就像罗马一样，在加利福尼亚州的Bianco Dinapoli有机番茄制成时，它像罗马一样味道。

所有的意大利面以斯帖的厨房是由内部, and Trees is also adept at non-traditional and modern dishes like a bright ricotta gnudi with pistachio pesto, California beets (including delicious beet greens) from McGrath Family Farm and California sorrel from Fresh Origins. Whether you come for a leisurely dinner with porchetta and market fish or just pop over for a quick counter-service lunch of pizza and pasta, you can enjoy cocktails from bar director Sonia Stelea, who formerly ran the bar at Cotogna in San Francisco.

Trees and his team have succeeded in creating something like L.A.’sBestia和Union, or San Francisco’sA16和Cotogna, or New York’sVia Carota和莉莉亚。以斯帖的厨房is a buzzing neighborhood restaurant that serves great Italian food while doing things its own way. Sometimes, you’ll see Trees’ dad playing music on the patio with honkytonk band The Rhyolite Sound. Most of the customers at Esther’s Kitchen have no idea where Trees has cooked before. They just think of him as a local guy with a new restaurant. He’s totally cool with that.

“It’s almost like another dimension, but if this was the Arts District in L.A., the only difference is that there would be more fucking people in weird hats and it’d be more expensive,” says Trees, who’s serving $16 amatriciana and making a point to keep everything on his menu under $30.

1130 S. Casino Center Blvd., 702-570-7864

厨师布莱恩·霍华德（Brian Howard）制作自己的蔬菜花园，自己的gochujang和他自己的四川智利油。他在Binchotan木炭上烹饪布鲁塞尔芽菜，并用他的丛林咖喱为他们提供服务。他的甜菜和绿色苹果酸是镀以一种在飞船风格的品尝山中似乎不合适的方式镀上的。他在包括burrata和Blood Orange Kosho在内的Uni Melt之类的菜肴中屡次使您眼花azz乱。霍华德的唐人街蛤casino赌场，中国香肠，shiitake蘑菇和uni hollandaise是对斯派洛 +沃尔夫在拉斯维加斯唐人街中心的Spring Mountain Road的点头。但这也是一道精美的原始菜。

霍华德（Howard）制作了超级舒适的超级创造食品：他的亚搏电竞表演木制燃木烤宽面条与羊肉bolognese，味o贝汉尔（Miso Bechamel）和伯拉塔（Burrata）配有毛茸茸的大蒜面包。这道菜是意大利语和日本人，是用新鲜的意大利面，埃利西亚田羊肉，红色武装猪肉，鸡肝，红酒和一点togarashi制成的。亚搏电竞很少有餐馆像Sparrow + Wolf一次又一次地做的那样持巨大的努力，并提出了像Sparrow + Wolf一样的启示性。

但是请记住，这是一家维加斯附近的餐厅，因此您可以在欢乐时光来获得奶酪，熟食店和一瓶桃红葡萄酒，价格为28美元。另一个欢乐时光特别节目是$ 400盎司的雅克·哈迪（Jacques Hardy）1848 Cognac。（欢乐时光之后的价格为500美元。）您在这里有很多选择。

4480 Spring Mountain Road, suite 100, 702-790-2147

Perhaps the most remarkable thing about chef Sheridan Su’s James Beard Award semifinalist nod is that he got it for a tiny, lunch-only, five-days-a-week off-Strip restaurant in a year when no Strip chef was named a semifinalist. (The only other Vegas-based James Beard Award semifinalist this year isLotus of Siam, a longtime off-Strip sensation that recently reopened at a new location on East Flamingo Road.) But Su’s Hainan chicken rice, with add-ons like exemplary Chinese sausage and soul-stirring broth, is just that good.

苏黄和珍妮最近开了一个大群&Fowl in downtown Vegas that serves lunch and dinner, has a full cocktail program and has added dishes like laksa. Su is truly a master of elevating Asian hawker-stand food. His glistening laksa is a hearty, herbaceous and balanced coconut curry noodle soup with a big prawn, pulled Mary’s chicken, tofu puffs and a one-hour egg. Su merges fine dining with street food as he tops kaya toast with foie gras. Drinks like mezcal milk punch and the Lychee’s Knees with Tanqueray gin, lychee-honey and lemon pair well with Su’s big flavors.

Pro tip: If you can’t decide how to customize your chicken rice, ask for the off-menu “everything,” which gets you traditional Hainan chicken, roasted chicken, fried chicken and every add-on available. This could include wonderful fried chicken skins and market vegetables along with sausage, two servings of broth, a fried organic egg and a one-hour egg. The price can vary, but it’s a tremendous shareable feast that won’t even run you $30. That’s less expensive than a lot of much smaller entrées on the Strip.

150 N. Las Vegas Blvd., #100, 702-983-4880

Vincent Rotolo would like you to know that he sincerely believes that the water in Vegas is better for pizza-making than the water in New York.

他说：“由于山区和土壤中的气候和矿物质含量，拉斯维加斯的水是披萨的理想选择。”“我们在实验室中对其进行了分析。它与那不勒斯的水几乎相同。是时候揭开纽约水对披萨更好的想法的神秘面纱了。”

These sound like fighting words, but Rotolo is, in many ways, as New York pizza as it gets. His Neapolitan grandmother and Sicilian grandfather lived above John’s of Bleecker Street, and a young Rotolo worked at that iconic New York pizzeria. Rotolo, who grew up in Brooklyn and has a dog named Brooklyn, gets his cheese from 47th Street in Brooklyn.

洛尔托洛说：“我不会为祖母提供任何服务。”

Beyond Brooklyn-worthy slices and pies, Rotolo’s making grandma slices and pies, Detroit-style pies and even gluten-free pies that are good enough to fool pizza purists. His signature pie is the Good Good, with a perfect combination of sausage and artichoke hearts. It’s inspired by how Rotolo’s father used to cook sausage-stuffed artichokes at home.

好派also has Brooklyn-worthy beef-and-pork meatballs. For a pie called The Good, the Rad and the Gnarly with sausage, jalapeno, Mike’s Hot Honey and fresh garlic, Rotolo puts together a killer hot sauce: What he calls “gnarly sauce” has jalapeno, habanero and Calabrian chile. Rotolo, who started making pizza when he was 12, has spent decades working on a gluten-free crust. It’s great that "Good" can mean a lot of different things in Vegas.

725 S. Las Vegas Blvd., #140, 702-844-2700

不，上周五，丹妮尔·克劳奇（Danielle Crouch）和艾伦·卡兹（Allan Katz）上周五在拉斯加斯艺术区开设了牙买加风格的酒吧Jammyland，这是牙买加风格的酒吧。

It’s frigid when we pop by on opening night, but that doesn’t stop multiple groups from sitting outside by some fire pits. Inside, the bar is standing-room-only. The neighborhood clearly has been waiting for a place like this.

将来，厨师约翰·格雷耶（John Grayer）将在这个鸡尾酒休息室遇到“雷鬼厨房”。同时，客人可以享受像天然Daiquiri和Plantation 3星朗姆酒一样享受熟练的饮料。shot弹枪棚（柔和的玉米粘合威士忌，柠檬，五香香草糖浆和aquafaba）是一种习惯的混合物，菜单描述为：“我们将Champurrado蒸馏到其本质上，因此您可以按照自己喜欢的方式享受。”每家鸡尾酒背后都有一个故事。第一个牛仔竞技表演是由“波旁威士忌的混合物”制成的，其灵感来自“无与伦比的混音师朱莉·雷纳（Julie Reiner）”。

克劳奇（Crouch）和卡兹（Katz）是洛杉矶鸡尾酒会的心爱的固定装置，他们的荣誉包括这里看着您和Caña朗姆酒酒吧。在此之前，他们在纽约各地调酒。在我们简短的聊天中，卡兹提到了他与厨师扎克·佩拉奇奥（Zak Pelaccio）合作的时间。重点是，这是一名船员，已经准备好为维加斯提供一个由各种经验的酒吧。

Jammyland’s initial cocktail menu is called First Mix Tape, and it’s a got a corresponding Spotify playlist you can load onto your phone. Come in and feel a different kind of groove than what you’re accustomed to in Vegas. We’re happy that we did.

1121 S. Main St.，702-800-9098