All that talk about the rising cost of running a restaurant on the coasts isn't just talk, so what happens next? A visit to Columbus, Ohio yields a few answers.
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花和面包的烘焙食品
Credit: Courtesy of Flowers & Bread

在那些令人羡慕的冬天下午,黑暗的天空无法决定是下雪,下雨还是向您冷冻水,Columbus, or at least this corner ofOhio's busy capital city, had crowded into the new Fox in the Snow café to warm up, have a coffee, some pastry, and to see what the fuss was about.

Okay scratch that—they already knew what all the fuss was about, because owners Lauren Culley and Jeff Excell opened their first狐狸在雪中几年前,咖啡馆距离这座咖啡馆距离哥伦布的意大利村区,这是一个曾经是一个艰难的社区,最近在艰难时期陷入了困境。从一开始,这个忙碌的政府和大学城中的每个人似乎都经常在那里出现,因为早餐三明治,启发性,创造力pastry, for very good coffee, and, most important of all, the vibe.

Modern, industrial, but never too off-putting, bathed in the right kind of light (both natural and otherwise), the first Fox in the Snow felt like something you'd find yourself drawn to in high test-chic San Francisco, or one of the more fought-over patches of real estate in Brooklyn. Cosmopolitan, alive, a sense that you are in the right place at the right moment, but with the benefit of an unmistakably Midwest energy: welcoming, relaxed, even warm.

fox in the snow in columbus food scene for ohio
Credit: Courtesy of Experience Columbus

他们的第一批努力是如此受欢迎,Culley和Excell决定在相对较短的时间内开设第二个地点,这是在这座更具历史悠久的德国村庄的底部边缘的近乎旧建筑中,这是最历史性的。您可以在这个国家中部找到醒目的旧住宅区。夫妻俩第一次做得正确,他们在这里做得更好。就像以前一样,在玻璃杯后面,有一堆质朴的酪乳饼干,上面挤满了果酱,早晨的面包,粘性的山核桃卷。在附近的柜台上,一家受训练有素的咖啡师拍摄了浓缩咖啡的镜头,这些咖啡来自缅因州波特兰的非常时尚的串联咖啡。现在,这都是我们的生活,这都是我们的生活,您可能会发现自己对所在的位置有些困惑,站在这个快乐的人沟通,拜访,分享体验,而不是盯着他们的笔记本电脑的电力氛围中。这些都不是偶然的,除了它在哥伦布发生的事实。

杰夫·杰克(Jeff Excell)在加利福尼亚的中央山谷长大;他学习成为一名摄影师,目的是充满旅行的职业。yabo电竞投注他现年38岁,其中有23年是一名承诺的滑板人。他从事这项业务,管理了在布鲁克林威廉斯堡部分在东海岸开放的第一台蓝瓶咖啡。劳伦·卡利(Lauren Culley)在俄亥俄州中部长大,搬到纽约从事出版职业,最终将其全部扔掉,以学习如何专业烘烤,并在城市各地的各种面包店进行了转变。她也很快就会降落在布鲁克林的那个蓝色瓶子,这是两者相遇的地方。

Culley,Excell很快就会学到,不仅在Blue Bottle上为薪水付费,而且她在那里获得了自己需要开设自己的面包店所需的经验。去俄亥俄州旅行后,不久之后,卡利做出了决定。她打算打开那家面包店,但她打算回家。她打算在哥伦布这样做,那将是什么。

"I thought I’d be in New York forever, and it was hard to leave—I didn’t even know where Columbus was at the time," says Excell, standing in the middle of the German Village café, because there was nowhere left for us to sit. "But I really liked Lauren, and I didn’t want to be that 50-year-old guy, living in Brooklyn, talking about how I had that great girlfriend once."

一件事导致了另一件事,然后是另一件事,现在他们俩都在这里,与他们的新婴儿一起住在最新的咖啡馆附近的一所房子里,经营一家成功的业务。有趣的是,一个很棒的人可以为您的生活计划做什么。

flowers and bread in columbus ohio table setting
Credit: Courtesy of Flowers & Bread

Stick around Columbus for a while, do a little prying, and you’ll hear a surprising number of similar stories—there is a well-worn path from the coasts to Ohio's capital, an evolving city with the verve, the boldness of somewhere much less entrenched, somewhere with much milder winters. It's no secret that the cost of doing business in cities like New York and San Francisco is driving a lot of creative talent out of town. The industry's leading lights have warned us of this, time and again.

如果您想看看所有这些有抱负的企业家的去向,哥伦布将是一个很好的开始。

Flowers & Bread, for example, a burgeoning mini-empire that includes a cooking school, an inviting bakery/café and a florist, all located in the relaxed, mostly residential Clintonville section of the city. Behind this ambitious effort is some incredible talent, both local and from the coast. Co-founder Sarah Lagrotteria's long journey through the food world has taken her all kinds of places and into all sorts of environments, both in New York and California, while master baker Sarah Black's 25-year career happened mostly in New York, at Tom Cat Bakery and Amy's Bread.

Little Eater, just up High Street in a sleek new complex that might have been lifted from a bourgeois West Coast suburb, is a vegetable-forward counter service joint opened by Cara Mangini, a Bay Area native who worked in New York and California before coming here. Author of an award-winning cookbook,蔬菜屠夫, Mangini's Columbus career began with a still-thriving stall in the city's North Market; now she's growing her empire, testing the waters to see just how into plates of colorful salads people in Central Ohio actually are. Judging by her success in the North Market, the same North Market where New York expat Phuntso Lama recently expanded her critically acclaimedMomo Ghar尼泊尔,一个ese dumpling spot that started out in a grocery store in the Columbus suburbs, the answer is very.

little eater veggie chopper
Credit: Courtesy of Little Eater

The success these entrepreneurs—and others like them—have found in Columbus has been, they will tell you, extremely rewarding. But ask them what stands out most about their experiences here so far, and inevitably they'll start talking about how welcomed they've felt, how supportive the local food community has been.

曼吉尼说:“每个人都希望对方成功。”“每个人都想看到对方做得很好。在这里有这种感觉,最好的是尚未到来。”

"Before we opened the new location, we were thinking about expanding out of the city, and I realized, wait—I like it here," Excell laughs. "No one's ever jaded, about anything. People come in and say, 'We love your place,' and I’m like, 'Well, thank you!'"