Chinese Food Outside the Takeout Box
廉价中国外卖是美国的偶像，它可以解释为什么美国的厨师既沉迷于弄乱它，又对其潜力视而不见。But as more chefs visit Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu and beyond, they’re learning that the true story of Chinese food is largely untold in the US: At its core, this cooking reflects a farm-to-table tradition, driven by vegetables (many of them region-specific) and seasonality. “Ironically, authentic Chinese food doesn’t travel well in a takeout container,” says chef Josh Grinker of the new Kings County Imperial in Brooklyn. “It has an immediacy to it. It isn’t meant to sit.” Here’s a look at the chefs, market impresarios and cookbook authors who are exploring regional cuisine with local ingredients, changing the way Americans think about Chinese food with recipes that are fresh, bright and modern.
NEW RESTAURANTS
Brooklyn:Kings County Imperial
乔什·格林克（Josh Grinker）在纽约市长大，每周与祖父一起吃一次中国菜。亚搏电竞但是，直到他开始在佛蒙特州伯灵顿的一家卵石餐厅工作之前，他才痴迷于美食，这是在佛蒙特州的一家鹅卵石餐厅工作 - 用粘土锅中的调味料，用空气充气禽肉，使其皮肤酥脆，供北京鸭。yabo电竞投注此后不久，与他的商业伙伴特雷西·简·杨（Tracy Jane Young）一起前往中国，启发了他开设了国王县帝国。后院花园为厨房提供了中国红芥末蔬菜，紫色院子长的豆子，四种类型的黄瓜和许多可食用的花朵。Grinker还使用了小批量酱油，该酱汁由中国南部的一家家庭专为餐厅生产，并由Tap在酒吧开放以保持新鲜。20 Skillman Ave。kingscoimperial.com.
San Francisco: (Preview)中国生活
Cecilia Chang, the grande dame of Chinese cuisine in America, advised on San Francisco’s newest food hall, due to open in early 2016. It will have a rare tea shop, a market selling fresh Chinese produce, a craft-cocktail bar inspired by 1920s Shanghai gangster hangouts and three dining spaces. Dishes like wok-seared cubedsteak “majong” with shishito peppers将出现在Marketplace餐厅的品尝菜单上，可通过半秘密小巷和货运电梯进入。陈说：“当中国的人们来到这里时，他们会说，‘这是真正的中国菜。’亚搏电竞644 Broadway;chinalivesf.com.
Seattle:狮子头
Chef Jerry Traunfeld is known for his Indian-inflected flagship Poppy, but he’s been cooking Chinese dishes like mapo tofu and kung pao chicken as a hobby at home for decades. Now, at his new restaurant, Lionhead, he’s using Sichuan ingredients like chiles and peppercorns in spicy dishes such aswok-fried crispy chicken. He carefully avoids debates about authenticity. “I stay away from that word,” he says. “I’m putting my own spin on many of the dishes. In traveling, I discovered that chefs in China incorporate influences from the West into their food, too. It’s an evolving cuisine just like any other.”618 Broadway Ave. E.;lionheadseattle.com.
More Previews and Openings
Mister Jiu’s, San Francisco
When his Chinatown restaurant opens in spring 2016, Brandon Jew (ex– Bar Agricole) will revamp old-school Chinese-American dishes like egg foo yung.28 Waverly Place；misterjius.com.
Big Boss Chinese，迪凯特，ga
Guy Wong grew up taking orders at his parents’ Atlanta-area Chinese restaurant; he’ll reprise their traditional Cantonese recipes when he launches his new spot in spring 2016.312 Church St.;bigbosschinese.com.
Duck Duck Goat, Chicago
Inspired by a trip to Beijing, Chengdu, Shanghai and Hangzhou, chef Stephanie Izard honed her noodle-making skills for over a year to prepare for her first Chinese restaurant, slated for early 2016.857西富尔顿市场；duckduckgoatchicago.com.
彼得•张Arlington, VA
Devotees of the brilliant chef, who’s known for popping up in restaurants and disappearing just as quickly, can now find his Sichuan cooking in the Washington, DC, area.2503-E N. Harrison St.;peterchangarlington.com.
Wu Chow,奥斯丁
At this new spot from C.K. Chin of Swift’s Attic, dishes like kung pao quail have a Texas twist. Chin also honors classics such as Peking duck.500 W. 5th St.;wuchowaustin.com.
NEW COOKBOOKS
101 Easy Asian RecipesBy Peter Meehan and the Editors of幸运的桃子
Meehan and the team behind indie magazine幸运的桃子create great versions of Asian takeout favorites, many adapted from recipes by chefs—thehot-and-sour soupwas inspired by a dish from Joanne Chang. “We’re reclaiming the goopy, satisfying stuff we eat from takeout cartons at home on the couch watching John Cusack movies,” Meehan says.
Phoenix Claws and Jade TreesBy Kian Lam Kho
Red Cook blogger Kian Lam Kho focuses on basic techniques—flash-poaching, deep-frying, hang-roasting—in his first cookbook, a compendium of specialties from throughout China. Organizing recipes by technique, he shows how to master dishes from the simple (cucumber salad）到复杂的（阳阳炸豆腐皮革卷）。
The Mission Chinese Food Cookbookby Danny Bowien
F＆W最佳新厨师2013 Danny Bowien - Kung Pao Pastrami，Salt Cod炒饭和其他天才菜肴，是美国厨师对中国食物的新痴迷的关键原因之一。亚搏电竞他的第一本食谱跟踪了他餐厅从旧金山弹出窗口到纽约市明星的惊人崛起。