四川传奇人物Yu Bo搬到洛杉矶并计划一家新餐厅

有鳄梨Mapo豆腐。That mapo tofu is topped with raw and cooked abalone. Yes, that’s skin-onsablefishin the fish soup with preserved vegetables. Yes, that tray of what looks like calligraphy brushes is one of tonight’s dishes. The bristles are pastry, filled with meat floss. The “ink” you dip each “brush” into is番茄酱。

No matter how muchSichuan亚搏电竞您已经食用的食物或您去过多少次品尝曼努餐厅，除非厨师Yu Bo为您烹制，否则您没有吃过这样的食物。

These are just a few of the things Yu Bo, the Sichuan legend who’s been called theFerranAdriàof Chengdu, is thinking about serving at a tasting-menu restaurant he’s planning to open in Los Angeles. Yu Bo, known forYu的家庭厨房在成都，正在寻找一个私密的洛杉矶空间，他想在那里坐一个晚上，为15至20位客人服务。最初，Yu Bo和他的妻子Dai Shuang将是唯一在餐厅工作的人。最终，Yu Bo希望找到一个想要影响四川食品未来的学徒。亚搏电竞他渴望将所有知识传递给合适的人。

考虑到他是谁，他是他创造的下一个水平食品，鉴于他从中国食品专家Fuchsia亚搏电竞 Dunlop和Danny Bowien引起了人们的关注（他们在成都拍摄了一个厨师的心思）, given the respect he garners in the food world from luminaries like Andrew Zimmern and David Chang, given his reputation as China’s most creative chef, this L.A. restaurant should generate worldwide attention. Don’t be surprised if people describe it as the ChineseNomaor the ChineseVespertine。

但也知道这一点关于Yu Bo：他使用了一个旧的切肉刀，他定期磨削，但在近二十年中没有取代。所有令人惊叹的刀作品用于创建一系列蔬菜，其中可能包括切割的萌芽细香葱，类似于玉式发钉，或看起来像龙尾巴的芹菜，或者用戴孔包裹的小胡萝卜碎片，以唤起“雪卷珊瑚”，或山山山（Mountain Yam）被雕刻成可能会让您想到抛光星星但实际上是一种华丽的中国图案的东西，它是用厨师用来砍掉坚硬的肉和骨头的相同类型的切肉刀完成的。Yu Bo只有一个切肉刀，他用它剪了所有东西。世界上可能没有其他厨师像使用旧的做事方式来创造新的食物一样熟练。亚搏电竞

当我拜访Yu Bo时San Gabriel Valley大约六个月前，他搬进了房子，Dai Shuang回答了门。Yu Bo向我背道而驰，不会转身。欢乐的厨师并不粗鲁。他小心翼翼地将鱼子酱倒在白蛋ust上，不想打破他的注意力。事实证明，那个蛋ust是Yu Bo的众多魔术之一。西红柿有甜味和酸味，但没有发红，因为他制作了番茄水，将其与乳化的橄榄油结合在一起，并将所有东西都放入明胶中。

雪莉·钟（Shirley Chung），Top Chef s最近打开的焦油Ms. Chi在洛杉矶, is one of the dinner guests at Yu Bo’s table. She’s gobsmacked by this dish and so many others. Chung’s worked for José Andrés, Thomas Keller, and Guy Savoy, and she says that Yu Bo’s cooking inspires her like nothing else she’s ever encountered. For one thing, instead of the typical progression of European-style tasting menus that relentlessly raise the stakes with premium ingredient after premium ingredient, Yu Bo thinks of his meals as a “symphony.” He wants to take guests up, up, up—and then bring them back down. He wants to change speeds mid-performance.

So there’s a dish of winter melon and oyster to relax your palate after the mapo tofu. Intensely spicy duck tongue is followed by a mellowing dish of crab-filled custard. Yu Bo’s fragrant fish soup, which we’re advised to eat without talking because there are seriously spicy and acidic elements, gets richness and depth from the skin-on sablefish. It’s followed by a calming dish of matsutakes and mustard-green hearts. This is a roller-coaster of a tasting menu, and it’s spectacular.

Yu Bo通过冷冻，然后像四川爆米花鸡一样煎炸来巧妙地处理科比牛肉的丰富性和美味。冻结牛肉的立方体可防止肉被过度煮熟。这是一种使Chung的下巴在地板上的技术。

晚餐后，我问Yu Bo，为什么他搬到了洛杉矶。

“洛杉矶是一个非常全球和包容的城市，”他说。

He likes how the city celebrates art, culture, and diversity. He enjoys being in a place where people are so open-minded. Compared to New York and San Francisco, the real estate is more affordable, and Yu Bo appreciates how there’s less pressure for chefs to focus on traditional fine dining. The fact that theMichelin Guide多年来一直没有进入洛杉矶，这意味着厨师可以尝试不同的事情并运用自己的成功标准，从而使他们与其他餐馆的竞争力较低。但是与此同时，Yu Bo补充说，L.A. Food的所有注意力都在得到米其林将来可能会回到这里。亚搏电竞

他说：“我很想受到米其林的评论。”

他知道，许多人主要认为四川食物是辛辣或麻木的（亚搏电竞马拉）, so he wants to show people all the nuance and grace of what he calls “the most inclusive cuisine of Chinese cuisine.”

他说，四川食品大亚搏电竞约有100道菜，有100种口味，从鱼类味道到不同形式的甜味和鲜味。

他说：“四川食物中的每种味道都是不同的。”亚搏电竞“有24种不同类型的辛辣。”

仅举几个，辣椒辣，姜辣，大蒜辣和高酸性辣味和甜味，导致辣。Yu Bo, who’s been making about a dozen courses at R&D meals in L.A. (we’re counting all the cleaver-cut vegetables that start the meal as one course) but has served many more dishes at previous dinners, wants to take guests through a cavalcade of flavors while illustrating how imperial-style banquets are different than the family-style feasts that people expect at Chinese restaurants. Think of it as a banquet in tasting-menu form, served on elegant plates from China and eaten with fancy chopsticks that have disposable tips.

Yu Bo and Dai Shuang have been eager for feedback at their R&D dinners because they want to make sure they tweak their formula correctly for L.A. One thing they’ve been discussing a lot is whether everything is presented like a fine-dining tasting menu or whether some dishes should be shared. They’ll have some time to figure this out while they consider L.A. real estate far beyond the San Gabriel Valley. A Yu Bo tasting-menu restaurant might be best suited for the Westside, where there’s a lot of curiosity about avant-garde food and a lot of deep pockets that can pay for that food.

Whatever Yu Bo opens, it will be a taste of Chengdu unlike anything else in the world. But he’s more than willing to teach somebody else how he does it.

He’s looking forward to selecting an apprentice in L.A., where he admires the spirit of young cooks. In L.A., he says, it’s easier than it is in China to find people who will work for passion, who will chase a goal that isn’t based around a monetary reward. He wants to pass on his techniques and skills. He doesn’t want to keep any secrets or protect any intellectual property. Chung’s asked him for permission to jack his idea and put avocado into her vegan mapo tofu at Ms. Chi, and Yu Bo’s fine with it.

他并不担心任何真实性的想法。例如，丹尼·鲍恩（Danny Bowien）对中国菜没有任何正式培训，但尤鲍恩（Yu Bo）认为鲍恩（Bowien）的烹饪捕捉了四川美食的精亚搏电竞神。Yu Bo可能比其他任何事情都希望四川食品变得更加现代，以便它可以继续蓬勃发展。亚搏电竞

他说：“这不会改变中国美食。”“这实际上是在散布中国美食。这是真正的中国美食应该或将要成为的。”

And why shouldn’t Chinese food taste like L.A. in 2018? Yu Bo’s been sun-drying cabbage in his San Gabriel Valley yard. He says he really loves the flavor of the California sun.