Michael Cardenas and Mario Alberto adjust the volume at their modern Studio City restaurant, which is the lighter, brighter resurrection of Lazy Ox.
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Credit: Wonho Frank Lee

Mister O’s,这是多产的餐馆老板迈克尔·卡德纳斯(Michael Cardenas)在星期二晚上在洛杉矶的工作室城市社区开业,是一个彻底的现代化,建于2018年的目的地。但这也是一家拥有一些重要DNA的餐厅,可以追溯到近十年。

Lazy Ox Canteen,Cardenas和Chef的开创性餐厅Josef Centeno在2009年开业,在许多方面都是先驱。小东京景点是最早的餐厅之一downtown L.A.on the map as a dining destination. Centeno had honed his skills at pristine fine-dining mainstays like New York’sDaniel, but he was purposefully going for something more grungy at Lazy Ox.

“约瑟夫和我,我们有一个深色的岩石''滚动视觉,”卡德纳斯说。

有积极的内脏数量;Cardenas将食物描述为“猪耳朵”。亚搏电竞但事实证明,懒牛所代表的是阴郁的相反。懒惰的牛有助于改变洛杉矶的餐饮,因为这是一家餐厅,融合了许多多元文化影响。这是现代的Angeleno美食,早在洛杉矶的餐馆复亚搏电竞制了剧本之前。

当您考虑到谁参与时,懒惰的牛很有意义。卡德纳斯(Cardenas),他在诺布·马苏希萨(Nobu Matsuhisa)工作,然后与他的名人友好寿司roku蟒蛇牛排馆帝国是在日本出生和长大的,是海军入伍的墨西哥裔美国父亲和日本母亲的儿子。Centeno在圣安东尼奥长大,是北加州的开场厨师de CuisineManresa,扎根在墨西哥和整个欧洲(包括西班牙,德国,法国和波兰)。

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Credit: Wonho Frank Lee

懒惰的牛在四年前关闭,但其影响仍然不可否认。Centeno经营着一个充满活力的市区餐厅(Bäco Mercat,Bar Ama,Orsa & Winston,P.Y.T) and has also gone fast-casual withBäcoShop。懒惰的牛校友凯文·李(Kevin Lee)在威尼斯的厨房里经营厨房马卡尼, a stellar Korean-Angeleno restaurant that’s one of the year’s buzziest openings. And Cardenas has teamed up with Lazy Ox alum Mario Alberto onMister O’s

Cardenas, who recently converted the old Lazy Ox Instagram account into the Mister O’s account, says that Mister O’s “is the resurrection of Lazy Ox.” But this doesn’t mean the food is similar. A lot has changed since 2009, including the age and eating habits of the team involved and the tendency of Angelenos to consume more vegetables than ever, so this isn’t a place to gorge on innards, trotters, jowls, and ears. The airy Mister O’s room, with its colorful decor and a lounge that feels residential, gives off a mid-century Palm Springs vibe. Everything is lighter and brighter at Mister O’s than it was at Lazy Ox.

Executive chef Alberto, who was part of the Lazy Ox opening team and went on to become executive chef atLaurel Hardware,Ysabel, 和Tallula’s,厨师有很多当地农产品,没有限制。用西葫芦慕斯,瑞士甜菜和石果醋腌制的斑块是一种甜,浓郁,咸味,苦味和奶油交响曲。这是夏天在盘子上。Alberto Fries姜黄面包,并在上面放上老虎无花果,腌制的橄榄,农民的奶酪和橙花蜂蜜。O先生的“凶猛的鳄梨”配备了大量的盐鳕鱼,这可能使您想起豪华的蟹肉。意大利乳清干酪,松露黄油,布鲁塞尔芽菜和豌豆叶痣看起来很绿色,味道同样明亮。

阿尔贝托(Alberto)在贻贝或蛤s上食用的辛辣,奶油,形成习惯的绿色酱,融合了Anaheim Chile,Dill Butter,Pernod和Bacalao Broth。正如Alberto所说,Shigoku牡蛎配有燃烧的辣椒黑人,Dill Dashi Mignonette和小片shishito的小片。阿尔贝托说,牡蛎是“非常简单的菜”,但他的层次是启示性的。

O先生是您可以吃一顿蔬菜和海鲜的地方,但是当您想要一半鸡,汉堡或一些虾肉汤时,它也可以覆盖。亚搏电竞然后是猪肉罐,是一个带有chicharron的波多黎各式的菜。阿尔贝托(Alberto)看到它的方式,这么多菜单有Porchetta,那么为什么不做一些既熟悉又令人惊讶的事情呢?

“It’s basically a porchetta cut,” Alberto says. “It’s the loin with the belly attached.”

Alberto将其混淆,然后炸薯条。他用贾迪尼埃拉(Giardiniera)在菜处,腌制的蔬菜与猪肉的肉味,肥胖,脆性和多汁搭配得很好。Can-Can随附的舒适的烤豆是传家宝的品种,是山羊的眼睛。阿尔贝托(Alberto)也称这种巨大的可共享主菜为简单。

Alberto is a lot of things at once, which is what makes Mister O’s so compelling. This is one of L.A.’s most promising new restaurants largely because he cooks with such freedom and confidence and creativity. Alberto’s a chef who grew up in East L.A. and whose parents are from Mexico. Alberto, who previously cooked alongside L.A. Peruvian godfatherRicardo Zarate, is inspired by food that ranges from Latin-American dishes to Middle Eastern specialties and so many things in between. He’s at the helm of a restaurant that’s part of a legacy, but he wants to write his own path. He’s a chef who “never intended to be a chef” and “fell in love with the kitchen by accident” after going to film school and studying photography.

阿尔贝托说:“我们非常陷入认同事物。”他专门谈论遗产和历史,但更广泛地谈论其他一切。“我认为其中的一部分只是放手,直观地接近一切。”

那是现代魔术发生的时候,在酒吧导演拉斐尔·乔纳森·巴巴(Rafael Jonathan Barba)在米其林·达令厨房里度过的一家餐厅Meadowood的餐厅现在考虑一下饮料的方式,就像厨师对食物的看法一样。亚搏电竞老式的老式糖帽蘑菇和棕色黄油。

Cardenas is a classics-loving, old-fashioned soul himself, candid to the point where he’ll tell a reporter he’s just met what he pays for rent at Mister O’s ($6,000 a month) and how much money it took to open the first Sushi Roku in 1997 ($300,000) and how much revenue Sushi Roku made in its first year ($4.8 million). He shares all these things without me asking him to do so. He smiles when he self-deprecatingly says he has a restaurant in Chicago (卡塔纳) that’s not doing well. He casually mentions some off-the-books hospitality ventures he had in a past life. He hints at some past acrimony between himself and Centeno. Again, this is not something I bring up. He just says it.

“我必须打电话给他,伙计,我必须做出修正,我爱那个家伙,他做得很好,”卡德纳斯谈到Centeno时说。

然后还有更多坦率:Cardenas呼叫寿司roku蟒蛇his “institutional restaurants,” his “disco restaurants,” his “cookie-cutter” places that are built “for the masses.” He loves these restaurants and the success they’ve had, which has allowed him to do “grassroots passion projects” like Lazy Ox and Mister O’s.

“My Sushi Roku business, we do $60 million a year in sales,” he says. “That’s a golden goose. When I do these organic projects like Mister O’s, it has to go to these one-off communities. I would have loved to do it in Venice on Abbot Kinney, but the rent rate is astronomical.”

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Credit: Wonho Frank Lee

那么,当他已经征服了主流时,为什么还要开设这些具有挑战性的独立餐厅呢?

“这就像是双极性的,”卡德纳斯说。“就像甲壳虫乐队。保罗·麦卡特尼(Paul McCartney)必须制作自己的专辑。我想制作一些新歌。”

居住在马里布的卡德纳斯(CardenasProvidence, is a restaurateur with insane range. He also uses music to describe the difference between Lazy Ox and Mister O’s.

他说:“它不是黑暗,肮脏的摇滚乐,而是更多的音乐。”“这是更快乐的音乐。”

您可以品尝Alberto食物中的愉悦感和成熟度。亚搏电竞

“For me, I think it’s just a spirit,” Alberto says.

That, ultimately, is what Lazy Ox and Mister O’s share. It’s an attitude that involves taking the pulse of the city and also just responding to it in the way you see fit. Things don’t need to be as aggressive in 2018, but you can still use everything you’ve learned and gained on your journey here.

So on a Mister O’s preview night, about half an hour before service starts, Cardenas and his front-of-the-house team talk to their staff about how to handle VIP guests (“soigne” means one thing, and “trifecta” means something even more special). They remind the staff of the secret phrase (it sounds like something you might hear at a taco truck) you should say if you notice the health department entering the restaurant. They stress that all drinks that leave the bar must be on a tray. Then the lights are adjusted to the right level, what seems like a careful calibration between glowing and dim, and Cardenas smiles widely and says, “Oh yeah!”

这仍然很有趣。这就是Cardenas仍然这样做的原因。他知道食物的未来是快速休闲的。亚搏电竞这通常就是他喜欢在休假时与孩子一起吃饭的方式。但是他仍然想用“一点je ne sais quois,”看起来很熟悉但在客户不关心简单描述的城市中也轻松描述的地方。那是现代的Angeleno食物。亚搏电竞

As Alberto points out through his cooking but also in how he discusses Mister O’s, modern Angeleno food is about evolution.

阿尔贝托说:“懒惰的牛是个美好的时光,但你知道,人们已经消失了,人们对不再存在的事物依恋。”“我没有依恋自己,也没有识别任何东西。在这一点上,它只是在当下并在这里。”

Mister O’s, 11838 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818-358-3839