站在你和人生中最好的肉汁之间的唯一一件事就是你自己对伟大的恐惧

This holiday season, Food & Wine is going over the top with our series "Give Thanks, But Make It Extra“ - 庆祝所有奢华，闪闪发光，丰富，美味和快乐的事物。

I'm all for family traditions, but sometimes a treasured food from childhood accrues so much nostalgia and mystique that it acquires the status of myth, and becomes impossible to recreate in adulthood. For me, that's what happened with my grandmother's turkey gravy.

我在北卡罗来纳州长大，每年我们花Thanksgiving在我阿姨家里。天将黎明的广告ults nursing mugs of strong, black "cowboy" coffee as my grandfather, still in his nightgown, fussed over the turkey: a 20-odd-pound Butterball in a battered aluminum roasting pan. Hours later, my grandmother would set that pan, now holding glorious turkey drippings, over two electric eyes of the stove. She slowly stirred flour into the drippings with a wooden spoon to make a loose roux while my uncle雕刻火鸡to her left.

After adding warm broth and whole milk to the roux, my grandmother gathered shredded turkey from the cutting board (my uncle insisted on cutting with the grain with a dull knife, so there was always a pound or so of turkey left to work with) and stirred it into her gravy. She cooked it all down into a thick, silky concoction of sauce-enrobed meat that was almost a stew unto itself. And that was her gravy. It was legendary; asopping saucefor the Thanksgiving gods. It was always the most extra thing on the table. Writing about it makes me want to make a batch right now to smother a bowl of white rice.

I was a professional cook and food magazine test kitchen pro for years and tried to recreate that gravy. Lord, I tried. But I was never able to replicate it.

Nearly a decade ago, I finally stopped trying so hard after making the biggest rookie mistake of all time and inviting both sets of in-laws to my Thanksgiving table at the Birmingham apartment I shared with my former wife. Gravy, I learned, can smell fear at the stove. This batch was doomed from the start when the liaison of starch and fat failed to become a smooth paste while cooking in the saucepan. Once I added turkey stock the liquified fat began separating and rose to the surface. I tried to skim it off while awkwardly playing family peacemaker with a 10-month old under foot, but that "gravy" hit the table in a boat with an oil slick pooling on top.

And that was the last time I tried to make gravy the way my grandmother did.

Now I make really good gravy that captures the essence of my grandmother's without any of the last-minute pressure of making it right before sitting down to dinner. It's still the most extra thing on the table, but without the time pressure.

这是我制作肉汁的原则，没有恐惧：

提前。This is the most important one. Don't wait for the drippings from the roasted bird and make gravy a la minute while your guests are lining up at the buffet with plates in hand. Make it at least one day ahead and then slowly reheat it in a saucepan over low heat just before serving.

做一个很好的自制土耳其股票第一的。Don't skimp on this crucial first step. This stock will power your gravy and give it deep roasted turkey flavor.

Reinforce the stock's flavor.土耳其的背部，脖子和翅膀都具有强大的风味和胶原蛋白，这使您的库存更多。在盛宴前的几周里，您会在超市中找到它们。通过将土耳其零件褐色的芳香蔬菜呈褐色，在重型有框的烤盘上褐色，将土耳其零件褐色呈褐色，将烤火鸡的味道呈褐色，锅低至足以有助于焦糖化，却足够高，可以捕获滴水并集中在底部的有价值的果汁。

用葡萄酒在锅中涂抹。亚搏电竞在热烤锅中加入亚搏电竞葡萄酒，然后用刮刀刮擦可帮助您从锅底捕获所有最后的珍贵褐色钻头。那就是味道的地方。该葡萄酒亚搏电竞还借给酸以获得风味。

慢火煮，小火煮。You want the turkey parts to begin to fall apart so they release all of their flavor.

应变和凉爽。将固体压入过滤器中，以便将尽可能多的果汁从火鸡零件中推出，并尽可能地将芳香蔬菜推出。然后将紧张的储备冷藏过夜，以便您可以轻松地从顶部的凝结脂肪倒入。这种脂肪非常适合节省（我喜欢用土豆烤），但是如果您现在不脱脂，它会稍后会使肉汁过于脂肪。

降低。您要想要的是凝胶状棕色股票。为了实现这一目标，请将紧张的库存煮至覆盖勺子的后部。

在路上选择叉子。您可以调味并将该股票作为jus，甚至搅拌一小撮玉米淀粉泥使其变稠，这将使您纯净，纯净，更松散的糖浆，而不是肉汁。或者，您可以跳过我的JUS食谱中的玉米淀粉步骤，并将液态黄金引入roux，roux是土耳其脂肪，低芥酸菜籽油或带有相同量面粉的黄油的增厚剂（在这种情况下为1：1：1比例）。搅拌并轻轻煮约10分钟，您将有很多肉汁。

仅热液体。Whether you're making gravy or bechamel,将冷液体添加到roux中会鼓励淀粉和脂肪分开。为了获得最佳实践，请在猛烈搅拌时将½杯左右的热量或jus装在roux上。一旦混合物看起来光滑且均匀，您就可以开始在其余热量或牛奶中搅拌。

润。感觉额外？一点味道有很长的路要走，尤其是在您非常喜欢土耳其的储备量并哄骗了烤火鸡零件的所有风味之后。当我想要另一层味道时，我会不时加入一汤匙波旁威士忌，马德拉犬，卡尔瓦多斯，白兰地或苦艾酒。如果您想先煮酒精，则由您决定。或炒切碎的蘑菇或炒giplets做得很好。新鲜的百里香效果很好，因此，如果您不想要切碎的草药，则可以通过酱汁旋转一小撮百里香。或者，您可以升级并结合最好的草药，蘑菇，白兰地，和培养的黄油制作与苹果白兰地的蘑菇和肉汁。当然，从切菜板上切碎的火鸡碎片将制成任何肉汁额外的额外。（注意：我基于本文土耳其杂物食谱我于2020年开发。食谱或您自己的自制股票。无论您做什么，如果您想要真正的肉汁，请从头开始库存。）