纽约市餐馆老板说，有25％的室内用餐不会拯救我们
On September 9, New York State Governor Andrew Cuomo announced that New York City restaurants could resume indoor dining at 25% capacity, starting September 30. And if infection rates hold steady, that number could bump to 50% by November 1. The city’s restaurants are among the last in the nation to reopen indoors.佐治亚州餐厅于4月28日恢复了室内座位以及上州，一些纽约餐厅于6月12日效仿，两者都有有限的能力。
虽然这一消息似乎是纽约市50,000多家餐厅的欢迎福音 -其中近1000个关闭了due to COVID—it’s a nominal one. We talked to a few of the city’s restaurateurs, and the consensus was: It’s not profitable, it’s not sustainable, and it’s not enough. But it’s better than nothing. Several reiterated what the industry has been saying all along: What’s really needed is more government aid.
“我仍然不舒服。”土糖厨师兼老板阿曼达·科恩（Amanda Cohen）谈到重新开放室内餐饮。“我怀疑我会以25％的速度开放。如果出于某种奇怪的原因，我决定在没有更多联邦或州援助的情况下，也许我可以持续一个月。那将是关于它的。在这一点上，每个人都算过他们PPP钱。I think I have until about the end of September."
室内餐厅在纽约有许多骑兵eats. There will be a midnight curfew; people can’t sit at the bar; customers will need their temperatures checked at the door. And then there’s the question of will customers evenfeel safeeating inside? And even if they do, is it worth the health risks to themselves and the staff?
这是纽约市厨师，业主和餐馆老板的一些想法。
How much will reopening indoor dining at 25% capacity help your restaurant financially?
“我很高兴做出了决定。我认为这非常有帮助，而且很长时间。当然，这次我们有足够的时间来处理它。但是，占25％的人并不是特别有帮助。”科恩说。
越野糖的占用人数为74，，，，其中25％是18人。科恩说：“我不能将一个人分成两半。”她说，即使11月的情况最高可达50％，“ 50％不是100％。”“这显然意味着它还不安全。在50％或25％的情况下，我无法赚到足够的钱。我仍然必须支付租金。都是创可贴。这都不是真正的解决方案。”
Michael Gordon feels about the same. He’s the chef and owner of Brooklyn’s意大利厨房，，，，a French-inflected, Jamaican-inspired restaurant that channels his island upbringing through his French education. At Ital, 25% of the indoor dining capacity is four or five座位 - 不足以造成凹痕，尤其是考虑到后户外用餐空间的尚待损失，冬天是冬天。“如果我们可以使用内部和内部，那就是差异发生的时候……机构越大，则会越25％。但这只有25％，”他说。
Roni Mazumdar拥有三家著名的南亚餐厅：休闲Masalawalaandadda，，，，and the more upscaleRahi。对他来说，25％的室内餐饮都是全部清洗。他说：“这只是一个很好的故事。”“这就是全部。这没什么意思。这是朝正确方向迈出的一步，我会这么说。我认为我们最大的担心是我们将在整个冬季关闭一百％。那不是这样……而是，另一方面，实际上并没有很多联邦援助……那么您如何维持失去的主张，以及多长时间？”
对他来说，对于许多其他餐馆老板来说，25％的室内用餐能力几乎无法抵消一个迫在眉睫的固定成本：租金。“有三个关键的成本结构，” Mazumdar解释说。“工资，租金和食品费用。亚搏电竞薪资有些可变……租金结构，这是固定成本……您运营的容量都没关系。”
像其他所有者一样，纳希德·艾哈迈德（Nahid Ahmed）敏锐地感到。他是厨师和所有者卢森，，，，a 32-seat tasting menu restaurant that defies categorization, pulling inspiration from El Bulli and NYC restaurant Lespinasse, where Ahmed and chef Arjuna Bull have worked. “I'm trying to negotiate something with my landlord,” he said. “But he's not talking.” The restaurant is six months behind on rent, and although Ahmed has the support of his investors, he feels the pressure to turn things around.
由于Luthun的方法如此不佳，转化为外卖，因此该餐厅一直依靠户外用餐。“今天正在下雨，所以所有预订都被取消了，对吧？”艾哈迈德在电话上说。“如果他们给我25％的内部，我只能将七个人放在里面。我现在无法与七个人一起生存。”
这不仅与数字有关。一家完整的餐厅也有无形的东西：一个繁华，温暖的空间，人们想在这里徘徊。科恩指出，可以理解的是，检查尺寸的大小减少了户外。她说：“有些人没有坐在这里喝了一瓶葡萄酒。”亚搏电竞而且，大多数人不太可能很快在室内做到这一点。
戈登也表达了类似的观点。他建立了自己的餐厅，以提供非常有意的体验。他开放的厨房概念是意大利的核心，这已经因外卖和户外用餐而丢失了。同样，在卢森（Luthun），艾哈迈德（Ahmed）的厨师柜台品尝菜单是位置的脉搏和大部分支票。在可预见的未来，两者都不是他们的意图。
What does rehiring employees look like now?
The short answer: not great. By and large, the restaurateurs we spoke with aren’t able to justify hiring back many people, if any. And if they can, it’ll likely be disproportionately costly because of scale.
For Mazumdar, it’s more about helping out his staff: Half of them have been furloughed at all three of his restaurants. “The reality of the matter is that this still ends up creating jobs,” he said, about the return to indoor dining. “There are real families who are at stake. So even to increase that, maybe bringing on a couple of more people, you know, on the payroll.”
For Gordon and Cohen, rehiring doesn’t make sense right now. “Maybe I'd have to hire one more person, but I'm not going to make enough to make that really worth it,” Cohen said. She had to lay off all 35 of her employees in March, and was able to bring back six later on.
戈登目前有三名员工，鉴于他的空间规模，重新租赁是不可行的。艾哈迈德（Ahmed）也是如此，他们目前有六名员工：两名洗碗机，三个厨师在生产线和一名总经理。他说：“我的员工一直打电话给我，告诉我他们想回去工作。”“但是我不得不告诉他们他们必须看其他地方。我现在什么都没有。”
与外卖一起重新介绍室内用餐的并发症。
像许多鸡尾酒会的鸡尾酒会，约会之夜的餐厅一样，越野糖的糖果不得不旋转和外卖。而且完成了如此成功。科恩说：“我们的交付，虽然没有维持我们，但肯定是我们业务的一部分。”“而且我现在不想放弃。”现在，返回旧的正常现象是一个新的挑战。
她说：“所有餐馆都有不同的经验，但是您知道，我曾经是一家高端品尝菜单餐厅，服务非常抛光，可能会在地板上有太多人，但我们为此容纳了。”“现在我该怎么做？我是否还希望人们有一百美元的平均水平，但也让他们看着人们整夜进出餐厅的送货吗？”
The midnight curfew hurts the bottom line.
然后是宵禁。在一个经常在9点或10点钟进食的城市中，午夜关闭时间清楚地缩小了底线。它使餐馆老板处于尴尬境地。
“我有一个6点钟和9点钟的座位，”艾哈迈德在卢森说。“坐在九点的人们，直到12:30或1点钟才能完成。我不会告诉他们离开，就像你知道，你支付支票，我关闭了。”
Mazumdar正在弄清楚如何以使餐厅可行的方式进行离职桌。他说：“实际上，我们提供的每张桌子的限制为90分钟，因为如果人们徘徊了太久，我们会错过下一个回合。”他解释说，一家普通餐厅可能会进行三个“转弯”，这是一个平均晚上的桌子。他说：“您几乎没有转弯，转弯半，这在已经很可怕的情况下还不够。”
他补充说，在Adda，人们通常会在餐厅的晚餐服务前进行排队，从而导致餐厅在下午6:30之前通过一轮客户搅动。由于人们现在并不完全渴望聚集在一起，这也损害了前端的事情。
How is 25% capacity measured?
餐馆老板也对此有疑问，因为这尚不清楚。包括员工吗？(They’re people, and they’re in the dining room; would they be magically exempt?) Cohen assumes that the answer is yes, which means that out of the 18-person new normal—25% of her 74 normal occupancy rate—she’ll only be able to accommodate 12 guests at a time after accounting for her 6 employees.
威廉斯堡的康科德山餐厅的吉娜·巴克（Gina Buck）也有疑问。“这是基于我们拥有大流行病的桌子的数量还是包括员工和客人在内的最大占用证书？”她告诉Eater.
There’s also the question of bar seating. According topublished state guidelines，，，，people won’t be able to sit at the bar, which should only be used for making drinks. But do sushi counters count? What about chef counters? That’s what Ahmed is wondering. His chef counter seating at Luthun is where he serves a highly tailed 15-course tasting menu, and accordingly makes the majority of his money. Normally it seats nine people; 25% of that is just over two.
How will restaurants be expected to change ventilation?
州指南还指出，餐厅应“限制空气再循环并允许外部空气通风”。业主仍在试图找出这意味着什么。打开窗户就足够了吗？冬天会持续多久？是否需要更新的HVAC（供暖，通风，空调）？虽然政府不太可能为已经陷入困境的行业授权昂贵的升级账单，但也不清楚期望的是什么。
“Now you have to outfit your entire interior, and there are conversations around how to blow in external air,” Mazumdar said. “So a restaurant business that you've already been struggling with now comes with a new cost structure. After you just spent money, let's say a month ago, to outfit your outdoor dining. Now that's obsolete… And where do you go from there? Invest more money, operate at 25% capacity. Oh.”
