31 Makers We Love

At his New Orleans bakery, Graison Gill is upending a flour industry 200 years in the making.

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约翰·科肯德尔（John Coykendall）在过去20年中曾在田纳西州山上的一家豪华酒店（一家豪华酒店）担任大师园丁。他追踪传家宝种子，并记录他们的“生命历史”，从他们的起源到烹饪方式的使用方式，有时他使他们免于遗忘。以路易斯安那州华盛顿教区的未知豌豆为例。随着巨型农场的小种植者，曾经无聊的豆类几乎眨了眨眼。Coykendall说：“这里的老朋友告诉我，这种豌豆已经灭绝了。”他花了30年的时间寻找那个豌豆。六年前，他在当时的87岁的丹·海·海·纳（Dan Seal）的花园中找到了它，后者给了科伊肯德尔（Coykendall）。他说：“我就像一个孩子在等圣诞节。”“我迫不及待地想让那些人进入地面。”他在Blackberry Farm（厨师在豌豆粉中使用它的地方）种植了一些东西，从第一次收获中，他产生了足够的新种子，将豌豆送给许多其他种植，补充和分散的种植者。 “It’s in the bank, so to speak,” he says.- 尼娜朋友

预订：计划在Blackberry Farm住宿blackberryfarm.com.

把它:Purchase Coykendall’s seeds ($5 per packet) atblackberryfarmshop.com.

When you think of the careers a former Marine from North Texas might possibly opt into, caviar farmer probably doesn’t spring to mind. But that’s what Michael Passmore, together with his wife Vandy, is doing at his 84-acre sustainable aquaculture farm near Sacramento.

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The pastrami sandwich certainly looks the part. The meat is bright fuchsia with that iconic peppery bark, the rye bread smells malty, and the mustard smacks of vinegar. But like everything at Jeremy Umansky’s Larder: A Delicatessen & Bakery in Cleveland, there’s more to this sandwich than meets the eye.

Umansky honed his interest in modern and ancient preservation techniques, as well as his mastery of koji—the microbe used to make miso, soy, and sake—while running the pantry at chef Jonathon Sawyer’s Northern Italian restaurant Trentina. But here on his own turf, he’s pushing those ideas to their most ambitious and personal ends, applying them to the Jewish deli flavors he grew up with. “My grandmother was a kosher caterer for 20-plus years, so my comfort, my inspiration has always been her honey cake, her matzo ball soup,” says Umansky. “The great thing is that these methods I like to play with now really sync up with ideas already present in ‘old-world’ food.”

Pastrami typically spends three weeks or so in a salty brine, but Umansky uses koji to speed up the process to three days. That spice rub contains the classic black pepper and coriander, but also reishi mushroom powder to dial up the earthiness. The rye bread is seasoned with toasted yeast and hydrated with sour amazake, which allows it to have a high rye content without sacrificing its airy texture. And finally, that mustard—it gets its tang from a custom vinegar made using scraps from Larder’s nearly zero-waste kitchen. Yeah, it’s a lot to think about. But the good news is you don’t have to—Larder’s lush, smoky pastrami speaks right to your heart. But do pop the hood if you wish; there’s a lot to learn just underneath.—Jordana Rothman

Click It:Go tollarderdb.comto plan your visit.

希瑟·J·哈斯（Heather J. Haas）曾经混合饮料。现在，她将炙手可热的钢制成了非凡的定制杆工具。

After 15 years of mixing cocktails, most recently at RiNo Yacht Club in Denver, Haas turned her attention to crafting better bar tools. “Our job is so theatrical, yet we use crappy $12 serrated knives to cut citrus,” she says. After studying at the New England School of Metalwork in 2016, Haas is now working to become one of just five female Master Bladesmiths in the world. At her workshop outside of Denver, she forges gorgeous “bar cutlery,” including muddlers, bar spoons, knives, and ice chippers. She’s become known for her pattern welding, a labor-intensive method in which she hammers together multiple layers of steel into a single piece, treating the metal with heat and pressure and then twisting it to form intricate patterns, resulting in one-of-a-kind barware like a Damascus steel ice chipper, made with more than 200 layers. H.J. Haas pieces have become coveted within the industry: Matt Poli, formerly the beverage director at The Catbird Seat in Nashville, ordered a set of her Damascus steel steak knives for the restaurant. “They were always a conversation starter when we set them on the counter,” he says. But they’re not just conversation pieces—they also feel good to use. That’s by design, Haas explains: “Chefs often say a knife is an extension of their hand. The same goes for bar tools. You want the ergonomics of a muddler or spoon to be just right.”—Jen Murphy

把它:Damascus steel bar spoons ($125), bar knives ($350), and ice chippers ($265) can be ordered athjhaas.com.

葡萄酒是什么?亚搏电竞谁说它必须由抢es? Why not, Ayele Solomon might say, from honey?

Solomon, who was born in Ethiopia, is the founder of Bee d’Vine, and from his base in Sonoma County he’s channeling a winemaking tradition that goes back millennia. Whether you call it mead (England), aguamiel (Mexico), t’ej (Ethiopia), or balché (ancient Maya, why not?), honey wine has been around for several thousand years. And it has probably, Solomon would tell you, been misunderstood for nearly as long: “Everywhere you go, there’s a culture of drinking mead, but it’s seen as a farmer’s drink or a historic oddity.”

清除一些误解：首先，蜂蜜葡萄酒是葡萄酒；亚搏电竞基本成分是蜂蜜，水和酵母，它们的发酵方式与制作基于葡萄的葡萄酒的方式相同（它们不是酿造的； Mead不是啤酒）。亚搏电竞其次，人们倾向于假设蜂蜜制成的任何东西都会浓密而甜。在所罗门的干cuvée品尝蜜蜂葡萄酒布鲁特是一个启示：它闻起来有花香蜂蜜，但根本不甜。取而代之的是柑橘类细腻，含有蜂蜜的味道，但没有甜味。

所罗门品尝t 'ej长大,埃塞俄比亚的蜂蜜酒亚搏电竞. On a trip home several years ago, it dawned on him that one way to save the country’s rainforests from being clear-cut for crops would be to make the trees more valuable through honey harvesting for wine. But the practical difficulties of exporting Ethiopian honey wine to the U.S. market were beyond daunting: “There was no wine industry there, so essentially you’d have to be a millionaire and set up an entire infrastructure.” So he moved his concept to Sonoma. He’s now on his fourth vintage, making both a dry and lightly sweet style, with a sparkling cuvée on the way.

But he hasn’t forgotten that initial inspiration to play a part in saving Ethiopia’s rainforests. “I hope there’s a way to do it,” he says. “But it’s still a dream. First I have to get people in the U.S. to start drinking honey wine!”—Ray Isle

Solomon makes two honey wine cuvées, both of which are most easily purchased through his website,beedvine.com. A sparkling version is planned for later this year.

蜜蜂($39)

Solomon’s brut (or dry) wine deceives the senses. It smells like citrusy honey (it’s made from California orange blossom honey) but isn’t sweet in the slightest. Chilled down, it’s a delicious and conversation-worthy aperitif.

Bee D'Vine Demi Sec($39)

这款具有新鲜水果甜点的晶体清澈的蜂蜜葡萄酒比Brut版本更加甜美，比Brut版本更强度，这是理想的选择，即新鲜的水果甜点，或者只是一个脆皮的Baklava正方形。亚搏电竞

Lars Williams and Mark Emil Hermansen eagerly anticipate the question that arises whenever a bottle of their Empirical Spirits hits the table. “Is this a gin or a vodka or ...?” At their Copenhagen distillery, the duo—both formerly of Noma restaurant and the Nordic Food Lab—explore the boundless territory in that “or.” They don’t make gins. Or vodkas. Instead, they eschew traditional beverage categories to create expectation-defying, free-form spirits focused wholly on flavor.

And oh, those flavors. Their flagship bottle, Helena, is a distillate of barley koji and Belgian saison; Fallen Pony features quince black tea and kombucha; Souk Blend is made with the North African spice blend ras el hanout and cacao shells. To make them, Empirical built their own machinery, which allows alcohol to distill at a 99 percent vacuum at 5°C, meaning that liquids can boil at low temperatures and thus not lose their distinctive characteristics. Williams and Hermansen are both adventurous and exacting in their recipes, pairing groundbreaking practices with ingredients that are just familiar enough to tease a sense memory while allowing you to experience it in a wholly new form. They’re not precious about it, either. “We may or may not have distilled a pretty popular corn chip snack that I dare not mention for fear of hearing from their legal team,” Williams admits. “It actually tasted great, but it was just too stupid.”

Their liquors are packaged simply, with small labels listing the name, ingredients, and alcohol content (always relatively low). The rest, Williams says, is up to the drinker: “All the other stuff is just a distraction. The spirits need to speak for themselves.”—Kat Kinsman

把它:U.S. drinkers can find these spirits (prices vary) at Henry’s in Brooklyn (henrys.nyc) or Domaine LA in Los Angeles (domainela.com).

现在很难想象,但是曾经有一个蒂姆e when the Azores—a nine-island Atlantic archipelago some 1,000 miles west of Portugal, now known mostly as a vacation spot—were a vital part of the European wine world. “Up until 1852,” António Maçanita says, “you had nearly 15,000 acres of vines on these islands, producing over 2.5 million gallons of wine every year.” Then it ended.

In 1854, an epidemic of powdery mildew destroyed grape-growers’ crops, and in 1857, the root louse phylloxera arrived and killed all of the vines (as it did throughout Europe). By 1859, Maçanita says, production had dropped to a negligible 8,000 gallons, never to recover—perhaps until now.

Open a bottle of the 2015 Arinto dos Açores from Azores Wine Company. The wine smells of grapefruit peel and volcanic stones, of fresh citrus and sea spray. Maçanita, who makes wine in Portugal’s Alentejo region as well, has been vacationing in the Azores since he was 6. In 2000, he planted his first vineyard amidst the island’s jagged terrain—the Azores are essentially outcroppings of black volcanic basalt—but it was destroyed by a storm. “The ocean pounds on the rocks, that atomizes the salt in the water, and then the winds basically salt your vineyard. And then it’s dead,” he says. “That’s why people here build stone walls around their vineyards.”

He tried again, successfully, and now Maçanita farms more than 300 acres of grapes, by far the largest new vineyard development here in centuries. His success has raised the image of the islands’ wines, and farmers who were once being paid as little as 78 euro cents per kilo of grapes now sell their fruit for upward of 4 euros per kilo.

The islands are not easy to farm, but the recent fascination with cool-climate wines has helped boost interest. “Our vineyards are on the same latitude as New York,” Maçanita says. “We don’t have to hunt for cool weather.” Yet when the sun comes, the wines are remarkable. “Everyone wants to bite into terroir,” he says. “They want to taste it. And you can do that in the Azores. Here, terroir, you can drink it.”—Ray Isle

亚搏电竞从石头和海洋中的葡萄酒

2017 Azores Wine Company Arinto Dos Açores Non Sur Lies（$ 55）

色调中的淡金色，葡萄柚，薄荷和海洋喷雾剂的气味。这将是半壳上牡蛎的杀手伴侣。

2017 Azores Wine Company Verdelho o Original($51)

小火山岛的小火山岛上的葡萄园产生了这种石灰味的盐水白色。它新鲜，生动的风味明显回忆起成熟的百香果。

2016 Azores Wine Company Isabella a Proibída($36)

maçanita使这种含糊的伊莎贝拉品种的含覆盆子丰富的红酒使这是欧洲的混合体亚搏电竞Vitis viniferaand AmericanVitis labruscagrapes.

“What I do is ephemeral—drinks get consumed, and you’re left only with a memory. It’s the closest to being a magician that I can think of.”—Ericka Duffy

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丽塔·索迪（Rita Sodi）和乔迪·威廉姆斯（Jody Williams）如何创造了一些纽约最独特，最受欢迎的用餐空间。

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“我们的业务是我们知道影响世界上想要看到的变化的最佳方式。我们希望将东叉发展到一个可以支持我们价值观的地方。”- Connie Matisse

Think of clay and you probably think about the way humans can shape it. You probably do not think about the way clay can shape humans—but that’s only because you aren’t Alex or Connie Matisse, the married founders of North Carolina’s East Fork pottery company.

亚历克斯（Alex）来自一系列艺术家（他的曾祖父是画家亨利·马蒂斯（Henri Matisse））。从四年级开始，他就一直在修补陶瓷。他在马萨诸塞州长大，但在遇到康妮时，他沿着粘土向南到北卡罗来纳州。

“There are tons of potters in North Carolina because this state is really clay-rich—white clay on the coast, blue in the mountains, red in the middle,” says Connie of the magnetic effect of the region’s prized resource. Limiting themselves to clays harvested in the Southeast not only has positioned East Fork as a homegrown outfit but also has shaped the company’s aesthetic. The local material is rich in iron and minimally refined, qualities that lend the final bowls, mugs, plates, and tumblers their unique speckled look.

But the clay isn’t the only thing worthy of a deep dive at East Fork. The proprietary glazes give a special matte effect; the shapes are engineered for utility. (Ask Connie about the hundreds of plate-lip iterations they explored to land on a piece that a server could clear without touching the table, and you’ll understand why they’re a favorite at restaurants like Cúrate in Asheville.)

It’s this level of care—obsession, really—that has rocketed East Fork from a craft-fair operation powered by one hand-built kiln to a rapidly expanding business on the leading edge of American ceramics. Not bad for a lump of clay.—Jordana Rothman

把它:Shop East Fork's pottery ateastfork.com

“I want to think about not just dinner but holistic programming—using food to engage in other people’s stories and identities.”—DeVonn Francis

From start-up capital, labor, and marketing costs to more intangible things like cultivating an audience, the barriers to entry for the restaurant industry are very real and very steep. It’s a reality that has made food an often homogeneous and inequitable world.

But there’s a movement of food entrepreneurs who are seeing those hurdles and clearing them—by running full speed in the opposite direction. “I want to consider the benefits of borderlessness,” says DeVonn Francis, creator of the New York City–based food-event company Yardy. “Not being tied to one brick-and-mortar location means we are able to reach into different cultures and communicate with people on their own terms, in their own spaces. It means we can resist stagnation, resist ‘business as usual.’”

雅尔迪（Yardy）的巡回式弹出窗口询问了移民和身份的概念，将艺术的元素与食物融合在一起。亚搏电竞牙买加移民的酷儿弗朗西斯（Francis）寻求他的遗产来告知菜单 - 您可能会尝到牙买加的倒塌，富含椰奶的炖炖锅或加勒比海面包的Dhalpuri Roti。一路上，您可能会听到诗人帕梅拉·斯内德（Pamela Sneed）的来信。拖拉表演者和辣酱装瓶商Andre Springer（又名Shaquanda Coco Mulatta）；或Arielle Johnson，风味科学家和麻省理工学院研究员。

It’s a complete picture, a moveable feast not limited to the space between four walls. If this is the future of restaurants, we’re along for the ride.—Jordana Rothman

点击它：Visityardy.nycfor news on upcoming events and booking information.

塔玛拉·科德（Tamara Codor）是一位经典训练的画家，他上学进行布景设计。斯特林·沃斯（Sterling Voss）是木工变成家具制造商。他们共同组成了西雅图最受欢迎的餐厅设计团队，帮助塑造了一些城市最令人兴奋的饮食场所的个性。最近，他们与2016年F＆W最佳新厨师明矾Edouardo Jordan合作，他们在2011年最佳新厨师Matt Dillon的Bar Sajor方面遇到了他们，当时Jordan当时是De Cuisine。沃斯说：“我告诉埃德多（Edouardo），‘你有一天要拥有自己的地方，我想在到达那里时建立它。”乔丹一定记得，因为他打电话给编码器设计团队建立了他的第一家餐厅萨拉雷（Salare），这是一场合作，与乔丹（Jordan）在2018年的六月巴比（Junebaby）继续进行，并与最近开业的露辛达谷物酒吧（Lucinda Grain Bar）一起。

Every Codor Design project has an element of the unexpected—what Codor calls their “clean-with-bursts-of-craziness” aesthetic. Codor looks at each project as a composition, while Voss makes sure that every piece, however beautiful, is also functional. The combined effect yields distinct spaces that surround diners in beauty. As Voss puts it: “The goal is to have every single thing, from the artwork on the walls to the lighting fixtures, be a piece of art.”- 尼娜朋友

Codor's Greatest Hits

Codor Design worked withF&W Best New Chef Edouardo Jordan在他的西雅图场所。

1.JuneBabyCodor used Photoshop to create a towering image of ancient trees dripping with Spanish moss.“Edouardo wanted it to really feel Deep South,” says Codor. The evocative image brings texture to the restaurant and reinforces Jordan’s exploration of the roots of Southern cuisine in the cooking of enslaved peoples.

2.露辛达谷物吧“It’s such a small space; he wanted it to be really intimate and feel cozy,” says Codor. The restaurant is named for Jordan’s great-grandmother Lucinda. No photos exist of her, Voss says, “so we asked him to be on the lookout for pieces that evoked who she was and the era she lived in.”

3.Salare“That’s our Salare chandelier,” says Voss. “It was a custom piece for Edouardo. It was made to match the table underneath, which was made by a friend who’s a woodworker. In the back there’s averre églomisé, or back-painted mirror, that was hand-painted by Tamara.”

“The women entrepreneurs of Oakland want to lift each other up.”—Sana Javeri Kadri

25-year-old Sana Javeri Kadri wants to change the way you think about turmeric.

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“Our motto is ‘there’s got to be a harder way.’” —Spike Gjerde

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“I may be the first black winemaker [in Oregon], but now it’s my job to let you know I’m not the last.” —Bertony Faustin

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