Everyone smiles a little more when there's dessert around. Four Food & Wine Best New Chefs share a career moment that fed their sweet tooth and their soul.
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最好的新厨师|Stories and Journeys
学分:Landon Nordeman / Ramona Rosales / Ramona Rosales / Evan Sung

似乎整个世界正在烘烤一场风暴。数字球体到处都是馅饼,饼干和蛋糕的照片,这也就不足为奇了。烘焙的魔力,尤其是甜点,它总是很特别。用餐是必需的。糖果是奖励。您必须吃饭,但是搭配早上咖啡,饼干或甜面包配下午茶或晚餐后甜点:这些总是额外的。

糖果带来舒适和喜悦,我们现在都可以使用其中的一些。世界各地的厨师都在发布他们在家烹饪的令人惊叹的视频,甚至传统上咸厨师也在从事烘焙项目,从亚搏刀塔2Nancy's Silverton's sourdough bread, 到Joseph Flamm'cinnamon rolls

亚搏电竞Foo亚搏电竞d&Wine与Southern Smoke Foundation合作,为危机中的全国餐馆工人筹集资金。我们正在分享从组织获得赠款的人们的故事。请考虑今天捐款

Inspired by all of this homestyle pastry work, we reached out to some of Best New Chefs to ask them to share a "sweet" memory and tell us how it might have informed their career path. They had plenty to share.

Diana Davila, BNC 2018

Mi Tocaya Antojeria

Chicago IL

最好的新厨师|Diana Davila
Credit: Landon Nordeman

"I've never been someone with a sweet tooth," saysDiana Davila。“而且,我的家人并没有真正的烘焙传统,如果我们想要糕点或面包,我们去了当地的Panaderia!”

But she acknowledges that there is one sweet memory that has informed her menus as a chef, a simple offering from her abuela, her mom's mom, who lived in the Chihuahua region of Mexico. The traditions there include flour tortillas, and her grandmother's were the best.达维拉remembers fondly that if you caught her at just the right time in the process, she would add a little sugar to the ball of dough she was rolling, then she would cook it, sprinkle it with more sugar, roll it up and hand it to you with some sour cream to dip it into.

“这并不是说她做了很多人来为人们服务,您只需要在当下抓住她才能获得特殊的厨房享受。”达维拉(Davila)在她的芝加哥餐厅Mi Tocaya上没有提供甜美的玉米饼,但她在菜单上的每家餐厅都有自制的面粉玉米饼。她笑着笑着说:“尽管有很多人不知道它的真实性,但认为面粉玉米饼不是'真实'墨西哥人,甚至很多墨西哥人,这感觉很重要。”“但是在我的菜单上有面粉玉米饼可以使这种传统保持活力,使我的abuela的精神在厨房和我的位置。

Katie Button,BNC 2015

Curaté,Buttons&Co。百吉饼

Asheville, NC

最好的新厨师|Katie Button
Credit: Evan Sung

凯蒂(Katie)纽扣(Katie Button)记得在著名的Elbulli工作时,他们正在使用粉状的硬糖果工作,试验将其洒在马铃薯淀粉纸上的想法,以使其结构形状。在集思广益的有关如何使用该技术的创意时,按钮went home and thought up an elaborate dessert comprising a candy "bell jar" using that technique. The dessert had a frozen cassis "flower" inside, on top of yogurt mousse.

“当我回到工作第二天,我分享我的idea with the pastry chef, Mateu Cassanas, and he invited me to come in early to work on the "bell jar" component," she says, remembering that what came out of that was a candy sculpture that could be flavored and finished with all different types of structures, and they called it a pañuelo.

“后来的Mateu将这个想法归因于我,”巴顿说。“当时,我不认为这是我的想法是因为他们没有为我梦dream以求的整个甜点而造成这种创造。然后我意识到这只是将糖果塑造成更大的想法导致糖果最终应用的格式。不,我自己并没有创建所有这些,但是思想和想法份额引发了一个想法,让其他人将其变成对餐厅有用的东西。”

这不仅仅是坚持她的合作,而是她获得的荣誉,以及每个人的贡献如何制作最后一道菜,整个团队都会感到兴奋。“现在,我想到的那一刻,与我们的厨师谈论为餐厅创建菜肴时。他们不必创造整个事情开始完成,但是一个想法,任何想法都可以是创造新事物的种子。”

Paxx Caraballo Moll,BNC 2019

丛林Baobao

San, Juan, Puerto Rico

最好的新厨师|Paxx Caraballo Moll
Credit: Ramona Rosales

Paxx Caraballo Moll是另一位厨师,他从来没有真正的爱吃甜食,但他们将始终记得他们的父亲何时将它们变成称为“ Barriguitas de Vieja”的南瓜油条,这转化为“老太太贝尔利斯”。

"He had a no recipe-recipe but they would always taste exactly the same."Moll记得。“我会帮助他,他会告诉我关于波多黎各英雄等最酷的故事。”

The memory of the way their dad took care of them by cooking something meaningful just for them and making it part of their relationship is how they lead the kitchen at Jungle BaoBao. "I love to be able to treat my cooks (kids) with love, respect and give forward to them. And that is a sweetness that I can have all the time!"

Kwame Onwuachi,BNC 2019

Kith/Kin

Washington, D.C.

最好的新厨师|Kwame Onwuachi
Credit: Ramona Rosales

Kwame Onwuachicredits his entire career to acheesecake。As a young cook, wanting to follow in the catering footsteps of his mother,Onwuachi不知道如何在纽约独自开展这样的业务。在Soho周围徘徊,他去了一家新商店,在与所有者进行休闲交谈之后,发现她正在计划举行盛大的庆祝活动。“但是她没有找到餐饮服务器。我说我是一个餐饮服务商,她雇用了我来迎合她的开业。”

Just one problem: She really wanted cheesecake, which he said he could bake for her no problem and offered to do a tasting with her the next day. Except he had never made a cheesecake in his life. "It was a disaster," he remembers.

他打电话给姐姐以供食谱,但没有密切关注。第一次尝试在面糊中有大量的非法人奶酪。第二个凝结着炒鸡蛋。他整夜在几个小时后终于给她打了电话,做了失败的芝士蛋糕,并真正听了这一过程。连续12个小时的工作后,上午7:30,他有了一个完美的芝士蛋糕。

"I didn't listen to music or have the TV on, I didn't sleep or rest or take a break, I worked at this one thing for the whole night and I was happy!" That joy, that contentment, was the moment he says he realized that he needed to be doing this as a career, that cooking was his true passion.

所有这些厨师都同意的一件事是,与甜食保持平衡很重要。无论是与滚动甜玉米饼的冷却奶油的字面风味平衡,还是煮熟的零食作为爱与联系的隐喻平衡。当涉及到将饮料与甜点配对时,很难找到平衡。虽然每个厨师都有自己的最爱 - 苦咖啡可以补充甜味,或者是一种可带来细微差别的甜点葡萄酒,但他们都同意的一件事是,苏打水是与任何甜点的绝佳配对。亚搏电竞轻微的矿物质质量是甜菜肴的绝妙伴奏,而泡腾的味道也从丰富度中切成薄片。像S.Pellegrino这样的高质量的天然烟火是厨师的选择,也是您在这么多餐厅菜单上看到它的原因之一。S.Pellegrino闪闪发光的天然矿泉水同样在家中,有美味和甜味的菜肴,这使其成为一站式商店,可以在其饮料菜单上辨别厨师。