利古里亚海岸的诗人湾是五渔村的安静,更宽敞的替代品。
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“下一步去哪里”文章来来去去,但是美国的love affair with Italyendures, verified by the sheer number of magazine covers, television series (Buongiorno,,,,斯坦利·图奇(Stanley Tucci)),以及以其城市和地标为特色的Instagram提要。如有新兴的人Sicilyandpugliaare gaining tourist ground, but the classics (thinkRome,,,,佛罗伦萨,,,,威尼斯,,,,Lake Como, 这Amalfi Coast,,,,andCinque Terre) are just as popular following the pandemic's pause on travel.

While belonging to a lesser-known region of Liguria, Cinque Terre is a household name thanks to PBS travel show hostRick Steves,几十年前,他们将五个狭窄的村庄放在地图上。我非常尊重的史蒂夫先生非常令人信服,以至于我在2006年的背包旅行中远足了这些渔村之间,并因罢工而经历了质朴的寄宿家庭和火车取消。我爱它的每一刻。

Since then, Cinque Terre has become a little too discovered, with sizable crowds that wouldn't feel out of place at a theme park. The streets may be automobile-free, but tourist-free they are not. I realized this on a recent trip to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the villages, when I herded up the steps and waited my turn to get into position to take the same photo that would likely end up in all of our social media posts.

Gulf of Poets
Credit: Courtesy of Lillian Graves

There is so much more to the Ligurian coast, though. On this same trip, which took place during Ferragosto, the annual August holiday that marks a two-week vacation for Italians, I was able to spend a few days in the Bay of Poets, or Golfo dei Poeti, which当地人喜欢参观。这个地区仍然很幸运地不受主流旅游业的拥挤。将自己放在以下城镇之一中,并探索意大利里维埃拉(Riviera)的一片,启发了丹特(Dante),雪莱(Shelley)和拜伦(Lord Byron)等作家和诗人。

您可以使用一种或多种运输方法轻松到达所有这些地方,包括渡轮,公共汽车,火车,租车或拖把。至于住宿地点,该地区不含大型度假胜地。取而代之的是,人们在精品酒店,家庭经营的床和早餐和Airbnbs过夜。

La Speziafood market
Credit: Courtesy of Lillian Graves

La Spezia

This busy port city is often a base for those traveling around the Bay of Poets, and it stays active with Italy's largest naval base, not to mention a cruise ship terminal servicing tourists who head straight for well-trodden Pisa and Cinque Terre. Those who take a closer look, though, will be rewarded with an elegant downtown that holds a daily market in Piazza Cavour (Monday through Saturday), where locals come to pick up their daily supply of produce, fresh fish, cheese, and cut flowers. Order an espresso and then do your shopping, or at the very least, buy some local pesto, a Ligurian staple, to take home.

从这里,您可以在检查高层艺术新公寓楼时走向海滨,迷人alimentari,,,,and unassuming — and occasionally Michelin-starred — restaurants. At the waterfront, stroll along the palm-lined promenade of Costantino Morin and attached gardens that lead to a white steel pedestrian bridge, Thaon di Revel. Here, you can catch seasonal ferries to nearby Porto Venere (more on this later) and the island of Palmaria, which is home to beaches and hiking trails. Or, stick around town and explore the Technical Naval Museum followed by an IPA at La Spezia Brewing Company. There's also a 14th-century castle and hilltop fort featuring local archaeological artifacts.

People walking around Lerici
Credit: Courtesy of Lillian Graves

Lerici

开车进入拉斯佩西亚(La Spezia)南部的莱里基(Lerici)真是梦幻。柔和的港口小镇很容易被五渔村的一个村庄混淆,其中一个诱人而宽敞的中心。当您观看当地人漫步时,在船上旁边的户外咖啡馆之间挑选您的户外咖啡馆,或者passeggiata,,,,along the promenade. When it's time to eat, duck into one of the many fish restaurants in the main square, accentuated by a 12-century castle on a promontory. Or, head uphill along a narrow lane with more restaurant options that culminate at a pretty church. After a few Aperol or Hugo spritzes, you'll likely start plotting a full-time move to this special place. If you're here during the day, pack a swimsuit and follow a path along the coast toward a fishing village called Tellaro.

La Serra

这个小,谨慎的村庄high above Lerici and offers magnificent views of the Bay of Poets with nothing in your path except a hill of olive trees. Once you find parking, explore the alleyways, steps, and little piazzas. Beyond that, there's not much to do except snag a table at the local cafe and sip on a Campari and soda, said to stimulate the appetite, while gazing at the Mediterranean and listening to bells of the local church. For dinner, walk to Osteria l'Orto di Ameste for a seasonal menu, or drive a bit deeper into the mountains to Osteria di Redarca and dine outside in a forest setting.

蒙特马克洛

这个迷人的山顶村庄吸引了利用Parco Naturale区域性Di Montemarcello的徒步旅行者,该地区提供了一系列穿越橄榄树,松树和Maquis Shrubland的小径,欣赏诗人湾的壮丽景色。如果您只是追随Magra River和Apuan Alps的一些精美照片,这也可以使这也是一个美丽的驱动力,这些照片没有被雪覆盖,而是被Carrara大理石覆盖。毕竟,这是世界的大理石首都。

Street view of Bar Massimo in Sarzana
Credit: Courtesy of Lillian Graves

Sarzana

This charming little town behind Lerici on the other side of the Magra River is well worth a visit, especially given its tourist-free streets. It's located near the Tuscany border, which is why it seems to have a Tuscan flair. The historic center is built around a castle and little streets are full of antique shops, artist stalls, women's boutiques, and lovely little cafes and restaurants that come alive in the evening. On Thursdays, there is an outdoor market selling food and clothing.

Le Grazie

在乘汽车,拖把或公共汽车去波尔图尼尔的路上,您会发现这个隐藏的海滨村庄的隐藏宝石藏在五颜六色的船只和漂亮的山坡上。它拥有一个小海滩和几个迷人的咖啡馆,您可以在那里抓住冰淇淋,沿着海滨小径散步,该小路提供了很多地方,可以散开并抓住一些光线。

Aerial view of Lord Byron's Grotto
Credit: Courtesy of Lillian Graves

Porto Venere

它的游客少于五渔村,而浮华却少于portofino。使波尔图·维尼尔(Port Venere)少穿越的原因是,它不在拉斯佩西亚(La Spezia)的火车路线上(与五渔村(Cinque Terre)不同),因此旅行者经常忽略它。yabo电竞投注但是,一旦您乘船,汽车或公共汽车到达了令人叹为观止的联合国教科文组织列出的海滨地点oohingand想知道为什么您以前没来。在零食的同时,穿过旧城区的五颜六色街道(另一种Ligurian零食),穿着轻松的步行路程。通过拱形石窗拍摄肖像后,寻找通往拜伦洞穴的门口,该门口以1800年代初以诗人最喜欢的游泳和冥想地点命名。(带上泳衣。)

Walk up to the Church of St. Peter and light a candle, then meander back to the waterfront past a series of rocks and outlets where Ligurians tan. There are several cafes offering fresh salads and seafood that can be washed down with a Sardinian-made beer called Ichnusa. If you have energy remaining, hike up to Doria Castle or Forte del Muzzerone and its terraced gardens for more views over the Bay of Poets. You can also take a ferry to the island of Palmaria and spend a day hiking, swimming, and dining on fresh seafood.

Lucca and Pietrasanta

利古里亚边境的诗人湾地区非常靠近托斯卡纳(Tuscany),可轻松进入卢卡(Lucca)和彼得拉桑塔(Pietrasanta)等地方。卢卡(Lucca)被称为贾科莫·普奇尼(Giacomo Puccini)的出生地,是一个保存完好的围墙城市,宽阔的小路环绕着城镇(两英里半),您可以在那里行走,慢跑或自行车。前往普奇尼博物馆,看看他住在卢卡(Lucca)的心脏地带,或参观他在Massaciuccoli湖上的别墅,每年夏天在那里举行现场表演。

A bit closer to Liguria is Pietrasanta, where Michelangelo used to shop for marble. Today, the town still attracts artists who have come to open their bronze and marble workshops, as well as international filmmakers, like the Mexican-born Alfonso Cuarón (director of "Gravity" and "Roma"), who calls Pietrasanta home. Spend a day walking through life-size sculptures, as well as workshops, art galleries, and temporary exhibitions in this quietly sophisticated town.

Aerial view of Riamiaggiore
Credit: Courtesy of Lillian Graves

Riomaggiore

If you are in the Bay of Poets area long enough and want to see Cinque Terre, get there in the morning, preferably midweek, before the crowds start arriving on the trains. If you prefer a visit later in the day, make a reservation at a waterfront restaurant like Nessun Dorma where you can bypass the crowds and take in the views from your own personal vantage point (no elbows here).

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