Caldo de Pollo的治疗魔力
Abuela became an altogether different woman when I got sick. Nourishing, soft, humming—she still looked like the woman who’d leave me in the casino parking lot to go play slots, but animated by a gentler spirit. She’d lie me down on the couch, hike my legs up on her lap, and sing to me under her breath while watching her telenovelas. Or she’d put a cold washcloth on my forehead and boil some tea. But always, no matter the sickness, she made me caldo de pollo—chicken legs with the bones sticking out, broth with an oily sheen of fat, vegetables sliced into chunks, and a library of herbs swimming on the surface. Corn tortillas adorned the sides of the bowl, perfect for picking at the chicken. The heat chased the sick from my fingers.
She didn’t call it caldo de pollo. She rarely called things by their Spanish names in front of me. But she didn’t call it chicken soup, either. It wasn’t called anything. It manifested, nameless and welcome, whenever I got sick, along with its accomplices Sprite and VapoRub, the elixirs of the Chicano world. I would secretly covet these sick days when I became well again, when Abuela would go back to calling me spoiled, go back to bickering with my mother over money or where we were going to eat. It’s hard to remember what being sick feels like when you’re well, but I remembered the replenishing warmth of caldo de pollo snaking down into my belly, assuring me that I was going to be fine.
墨西哥人通常会体验我所说的没有记忆的记忆的东西。我们的童年时代充满了我们不太了解的仪式。一位奇卡纳（Chicana）的朋友告诉我，当她生病时，她的阿布拉（Abuela）会加热玉米饼，并在唱歌时躺在她的肚子上，“萨那，萨那，科利塔·德·拉娜。”我的Abuelo告诉我，他的母亲生病了，他的母亲会在床下放一个鸡蛋。我们知道这些做法有些古老。他们像古老的事物一样华丽和严肃。但是祖先没有面孔，而行为本身是按照临床必要性进行的，除了“我的母亲生病时我的母亲曾经这样做”以外，很少伴随着任何知识。
For those of us who have been assimilated, Latin-American history itself can feel like this—half-remembered fever dreams of textures, relics, and traditions with labyrinthine roots that evade tangibility. I believe it’s why our culture lends itself to the fantastical, why magical realism found its home under our roof. We inhabit an “in between.” This notion of being caught between worlds, dubbed “nepantla” by queer Chicana scholar Gloria Anzaldua, plays out colorfully in our cuisine, where indigenous traditions live on in everyday kitchen objects like the comal, a flat griddle for tortillas, called “comali” in the Aztec world, and the molcajete, a tripod mortar and pestle from pre-Columbian days.
但是，除了物理物体之外，哲学可能会随着时间的流逝而失去名字或被折叠成西方的戒律，但仍然控制着我们的记忆，即我们童年厨房的古老神。他们以我们的语言，我们的传统以及我们的生活态度生活。食物和药物不明显的观念就是一个例亚搏电竞子，我们的祖先很早就知道了“超级食品”成为一种现象。在这里，在烹饪传统和民间医学的交汇处，我们发现了我们的abuelas的治愈魔力。我问的人越多，关于我们的“病日”食品和仪式的故事越多；亚搏电竞卡尔多，精灵，歌曲，玉米饼以这种方式放置。
Seeking answers, a friend directed me to Felicia Cocotzin Ruiz, a curandera, or traditional healer, who has become the godmother of the movement to decolonize the kitchen. The aim, in part, is to do away with notion that indigenous foods and traditions belong in the past and to highlight the nutritional and spiritual benefits of the cuisine of our ancestors. In doing so, we can discover more about them, and about ourselves.
“您可能永远不知道Abuela的汤中所有的东西。”她正确地猜测Abuela在做唱歌时会唱歌。“最重要的成分是能量。”她告诉我，有些食物向左搅拌，而另一亚搏电竞些食物则根据宇宙厨房的能量流而向右搅拌。“掘金，”她称之为这样的小练习，“我们的人民设法坚持不懈。”
对于Cocotzin Ruiz来说，就像我和墨西哥血统的许多其他人一样，正是治愈的渴望使她更接近自己的传统。她告诉我，当她的兄弟在1991年与艾滋病毒感染时，她迈出了成为弗兰德拉的第一步。她倾向于他，按摩他的脚以帮助他放松。就在他过去之前，他告诉她她应该去按摩学校。
她说：“这些话使我走上了道路。”她开始学习Curanderismo，并将对食物的热爱融入她的练习中。亚搏电竞我忍不住想起我的阿布拉（Abuela），因为她死后是如何在死者的那天为她做一个传统的祭坛，一个鲜花，蜡烛和食物的传统祭坛。亚搏电竞这是一种死后治愈的行为，这是我们作为一个家庭而损失和平的一种方式。我想到了痛苦，死亡和疾病的酸味如何吸引我们的古老事物。
Caldo de Pollo的成分非常简单。这是一种用于炸鸡肉的汤 - 肉，蔬菜存根，其他碎屑。对于拥有一个已经很忙的厨房，一个生病的孩子以及一个可以在花园中供应的植物武器库的低收入家庭，这是理想的理想选择。Abuela有这样的人。当我们有腹部时，她会给我们薄荷叶子咀嚼。当我们被晒伤时，她会破裂芦荟碎片，并给我们辣椒清除我们的鼻窦。活着的历史，生活疗法，在种子和歌曲和索帕斯中走私。
I tried to make it for myself once when I came down with a bad cold. I threw all the right materials into the pot, and it came out tasting about the same, but it didn’t have the same profound effect. I think a crucial ingredient is the presence of someone else, someone who sings and stirs the broth, someone who places the bowl in front of you, someone who cares about you and wants to see you get better.
Vaporub不会真正治愈流感。精灵无法真正治愈胃痛。也许Abuela的Caldo de Pollo，尽管如此，魔术从未打破我的发烧。也许有一些科学。可能是。但这对我来说并不重要。这些东西比其他任何东西都更是一种精神的技术，即礼仪康复的物品。他们告诉我们：“您受到照顾。你被爱了。你会再好。” We reach for these things, as if by animal instinct, when we feel ill. As we wait for fever to break, it can be comforting to consider that, in times of distress, our bodies remember who we are.
获取食谱：Caldo de Pollo