Restaurant veteran Adam Reiner calls for an end to the silence and systems that keep bullies in place and employees in fear.
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厨师在扩音器上大喊
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Editor’s note:11月,我们发射了Communal Table,一个在食品行业放大第一人称声音的论坛。亚搏电竞我们的目标是与领导者长期合作,以创造更人性和可持续的工作场所。我们鼓励餐厅和酒吧工人和所有者在这里写作并分享他们的经验:kat.kinsman@timeinc.com。有关于如何使行业成为更安全,更好,更可持续的工作场所的想法吗?也请分享。我们将编辑并发布一些条目亚搏电竞foo亚搏电竞dandwine.com

亚当·雷纳(Adam Reiner)是创始人兼执行编辑Restaurant Manifesto,一个致力于帮助人们更成功用餐的网站。他在纽约市的高级餐厅工作了15年,并在国际上担任酒店顾问。

2012年初,我在纽约一家顶级餐厅提交了辞职。我是众议院工作人员的资深成员,拥有超过10年的经验。我一直在赚钱,有一个梦想的时间表。没有太多理由离开。但是,就像我在这家餐厅的许多以前的同事一样,我确实离开了其余的原因。行政总厨是一名连环虐待者,我厌倦了成为他的打孔袋。

This chef continued to helm the kitchen at this restaurant for another five years before he was recently fired. His dismissal confirmed what most of us knew all along, that he was unfit for his position. It took the public shaming of celebrity chefs and industry luminaries to hasten his departure, despite the fact that the list of grievances against him had piled up beyond absolution. The tectonic shift that has given voice to victims of workplace harassment in professional kitchens and fine dining rooms is finally shaking the bad fruit from the tree. The worst offenders like this chef, we now know, were rotten to the core.

Harassment in restaurants is often hereditary. It gets passed down from chef-owner to chef de cuisine to sous chef like a mutated gene. Once the abusive behavior becomes ingrained in a restaurant’s culture, it’s hard to reverse course. In this restaurant, like many, the dining room staff dreaded entering the kitchen out of fear that Chef might pull out the switch. I was once literally shooed out of the kitchen with a plate of hot food even though the chef knew I needed to communicate the urgent needs of my table. There were others available to take the plate; he just wanted to show me who was boss.

“现在跑步,服务员,”他带着光顾的傻笑和sho着的手势说道。我知道如果我想保留工作,我将不得不把午餐钱给厨房的欺负者。

Many chefs will tell you that aggression is the only way to coax consistent production from their line cooks. Making great food takes extraordinary discipline but a chef’s quest for purity behind the line can often turn sadistic. Long nights in a blazing hot kitchen with a printer that never stops spitting out orders can transform gentle souls into rabid animals. Voices get raised, toes stepped on. The first-aid kit in the kitchen doesn’t treat hurt feelings.

的部分原因之间的摩擦and back of house is because most executive chefs have discretion to hire and fireanyone在工作人员。总经理具有相同的权力,但很少对BOH员工进行行使。在优质用餐中,所有工作人员都将行政总厨视为“厨师”,当您进入厨房时,您以与伊玛目或老师一样的崇敬和谦卑来接近他们。我们被教导要解决厨师的刚性提醒所有人,餐厅中最强大的位置(除了所有者)是负责烹饪食物的人。亚搏电竞如果该人有侵略性倾向,那么很少有安全阀保护下属免受其α雄性的侵害。

在我终于发出通知之前的几个月,我直接联系了其中一位厨师的侵略性行为。在记录了几次官方投诉之后,我对经理们停止他的行为的能力失去了信心。我和一位厨师的亲密朋友的同事矛盾。当厨师遇到摩擦的风时,他开始像一个复仇的流氓一样对我进行拮抗。在准备好之前,他为亚搏电竞我的桌子开了食物。他在厨师面前对我发表了诽谤性的评论。当他有一天晚上在服务期间出来进入饭厅并威胁要解雇我时,我到达了我的突破点。

The chef and I met privately with the owner one afternoon to air our grievances. Of course, he played the dutiful son but it was only an act to protect his job. Abusive chefs always behave themselves when the owners are around. Within weeks he was back to the same old shenanigans. There was no HR apparatus within the company at the time to defend me or anyone for that matter. Every manager I ever worked with knew about the harassment. Every. One. Most of them had their own problems, and they were targets too.

I wasn’t surprised to hear about his firing, just that it took so many years to finally happen. Along with the bullying I’ve described here, he had also been the subject of multiple lawsuits claiming sexual harassment. I’ve talked privately to many who were present in his kitchen when these allegations were made, and not a single one has ever discredited the accounts of his accusers. Those cases, aside from a few brief moments in the tabloids, were given little credence by members of the food media who were more concerned that legitimizing a scandal would result in forfeiting access.

虽然没有人会承认这一点,但这位厨师保留了他的工作,因为餐馆像兄弟会一样孤立在大学校园的突击场景中,当有人在兄弟会的房子里越过线路时,兄弟会可能会保护其成员,因为它知道他们的队伍中的一个人是否会下降,这可能威胁到整个组织。难怪我们以男性为主的行业在#MeToo运动中如此保持沉默。长期以来,餐厅业务一直是一个大型房屋。

在这种情况下,这种心态被证明是有意义的,因为隐藏这些虐待使损害加剧了。餐厅集团选择不终止该厨师多年的就业机会,因为他知道他对员工的福利构成了威胁,并承担了对业务的责任。组织中的任何声称他们不知道发生这种情况的人对自己或其他任何人都不诚实。尽管我很难看到这家餐厅的遗产很遗憾,但我对那些受到声誉受损的人并不同情。这种癌症可以在传播之前很长时间被去除。如果曾经这样做,我可能仍然在那里工作。