公共表播客：布尔登日故事

厨师and restaurant workers take great care of everyone else, but often they need a little help themselves. Each week,亚搏电竞食品和美酒亚搏电竞senior editor Kat Kinsman talks with hospitality pros about they manage their business, brain, and body for the long haul. Is there a topic you'd like to know more about or a guest you'd love to hear from? Tell us atfwpro@亚搏电竞foo亚搏电竞dandwine.com或推文给凯特@kittenwithawhip并订阅每周亚搏电竞食品和亚搏电竞葡萄酒专业通讯。

第17集：布尔登日

Anthony Bourdain left us too soon. The chef, host, and author's death by suicide in 2018 left an unfillable hole in the restaurant community, and the world at large. His dear friends Eric Ripert and Jose Andres have declared June 25, his birthday, to beBourdain Day- 朋友和粉丝分享他们的故事并保持记忆的机会。但这很复杂。在最近的欢迎会议并在室内访谈, Andrew Zimmern, Steve Palmer, Alpana Singh, Anthony Rudolf, Andrew Friedman, Brian Canlis, Drew Nieporent, Hunter Lewis, Gary Obligacion, Patrick O’Connell, Amy Mills, and Laurie Woolever shared their remembrances and feelings of Bourdain's life, death, legacy, and impact.

向下滚动以阅读完整的成绩单。

If you or someone you know is in crisis, you don't have to weather it alone:

Text HOME toCrisis Text Lineat #741741.

Learn more about给厨房's QPR Suicide Prevention Training for food service workers.

Visit aBen's Friendsmeeting in your city.

Listen toLaurie Woolever's full interview。

Read "We Need to Talk About Anthony Bourdain。“

Catch up on all previous episodes：公共桌子

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Previous episode:马库斯·萨缪尔森（Marcus Samuelsson）

TRANSCRIPT:

我很确定我之前已经分享过这个，但是这是我最喜欢的托尼，所以我不能分享足够的时间。因此，我加入了14年前的yabo电竞投注旅行频道13号，我正在做特价，他们正在测试我的节目。Bizarre Foods是12 3/4，在2月将为13年。所以托尼刚刚加入了亚搏电竞Cook's Tour, the Travel Channel aired for a year prior to him starting没有预订。

So he's there with an established show, so they're not testing him, right? He's actually working, but we're both at the network, and I did two specials, "World's Best Ballpark Foods" and "Bizarre Foods of Asia." As pilots, they wanted to see which one would've been better. So we meet, and we're playing New York City geography, and it's like, you know, friends of mine parents knew his mom. We both went to Vassar, we were both recovering heroin addicts, we were both cooks in New York at the same time, we had been in the same places in some of the same parties, not necessarily great places to be, at different times in our lives. So we had a lot to talk about.

And even back then, before he was Tony, and the way he was to most of the public that didn't know him, he was still the most charismatic, symphonic human being that I ever knew. He still, at that point, could talk endlessly about Polish cinema of the fifties, or 1960s pre-metal bands. I mean, you know, whatever you wanted to talk about, he could converse about. And I just instantly wanted him to like me and wanted to be friends. And flash ahead a year, season one, they wanted to do a cross-over show with us.

And we're shooting promos for it before we shot it, and we're on the Brooklyn side of the river on that wide, sort of embarcadero that's there. And we're shooting this thing, and we walk out a hundred paces, and they say, hey, when we wave, just walk towards us, don't say anything. No mouth flapping, just walk, occasionally look at each other, look out to the right, we have a camera over there, you know, typical kind of thing. They're going to capture a whole bunch of stuff with one walk to lay some track underneath. And they're having a camera issue, or mic issue, or something like that on their end, and they're fixing it so we turn to each other, and we start talking.

我觉得这是我的时刻，我们今晚在做什么，让我们出去，因为现在，这是13，14年前，我好像我们要成为朋友，这将是很棒的。他看着我，他说，从字面上看，他说我的想法，他说：“我们成为朋友的唯一途径是，如果我们取得了成功的第一季，所以不要他妈的。”我看着他，就像你的意思一样，他说：“他们已经尝试了我面前的每场演出，之后，等等，这是不起作用的。这个网络必须工作。我想要这个网络。“

我的意思是，与我们所有人一起，帕特·杨（Pat Young）是把托尼（Tony）带到的人，他把我带到了，然后再带我去，然后再加上许多其他人，试图制作一个充满沉浸式专家的旅行频道。yabo电竞投注我认为，该网络的辉煌岁月是帕特运行的时候。我的意思是，它只是向所有气缸发射。但是托尼要说的话，并表达出那种方式只是他的魔力，压力就在了，我当时想：“你该死的，我不会他妈的。”

And you know, Monday was for the first two or three years, was our night. It was my show followed by his show. And it just blew up Travel Channel, and then he kept Monday, and I moved to Tuesday, or vice versa, I forget what the, or vice versa, whatever. And that's how the network enlarged and planted flags. And then other people came up behind me, and you're like, "Don't fuck it up, you're on my night." Don't fuck up my night.

But over the years, as we realized how much more we had in common, we had wives we didn't see as much of as we wanted to or should have. We took our work more seriously than probably we should have, in a selfish way. I mean, I acknowledge that. We love what we did so much, we loved being on the road telling those stories so much, that you can't help leaning into that. We both had kids that we didn't spend enough time with. And as we became friends, you know, his words were prescient, they came true, because we became close despite the fact that because we're always on the road, we didn't see a lot of each other.

而且，我可能比以往任何时候都和他交谈。他变得很健谈。突然，他发现了发短信和DM'ING。

And I was just like, I actually said to him, "Are you fucking all right?" I mean, just joking with him because he would just like text me shit out of the blue. He would be reading my Twitter feed, I would say something nice about some random person, and he was like, "Oh, this is how I know them, blah blah blah blah blah. Why do you think they're nice?" And he'd want to have a conversation.

这真的很有趣,我们将开始在var见面ious parts of the world, in cities and whatever, and have dinner and be checking in and talking about real shit more regularly. But I'll never forget that day on the Brooklyn side of the bridge, right underneath it, he also said another thing to me that day that I've never forgotten. He said, "TV is a vile mistress. You sign a contract with them, you've already given away your integrity. Don't ever think you can have it back."

I only met him once, briefly, and I brought up A.J. Liebling, and he was so happy that I brought Liebling up, and I didn't ... I loved his work. I read all his books. We met. Actually, we met twice. We met once when he had written his first novel, but at that time I barely knew who he was. Then the second time we met was years later, and he was becoming Anthony Bourdain. He already had one show on, and I brought up Liebling to sort of say, "I feel like you're chasing Liebling's ghost," and he loved hearing that. I loved being able to connect with him in that way.

作为一个清醒的人和作为康复的人，我想到了我第一次阅读厨房机密。And listen, in the recovery community, we all tell war stories, right? We all laugh, and part of the healing process is being able to look back and laugh. So it's not that when I read sort of a glamorized version of drug and alcohol abuse that I'm offended. But to read that, to see the way the public sort of glorified that behavior, put it up and then to really watch his journey about sort of acknowledging that, getting sober, and yetBen's Friends是为自杀的本·默里（Ben Murray）创立的。我们都不知道他正在遭受苦难，我们都不知道他很沮丧。所以有很多相似之处。因此，对我来说，布尔登日是关于我们的行业继续不允许人们沉默。

本的朋友是一个每周的支持小组。我们在六个城市，四个城市，为专门针对毒品和酒精的行业开会。它是由清醒的人创立的，试图帮助想要清醒的人。我们是一种资源，是通往其他治疗插座的桥梁。我们的主要目的是帮助餐馆人民，不仅变得清醒，而且希望也有希望，这是一个次要目标，意识到他们可以在行业中工作，而不是毒品和酒精，因为不久前有一件事，这两件事，认为您不能滥用毒品和酒精并从事业务工作，这是有些荒谬的。因此，我们专门试图教导人们他们有选择。

我从未遇到过安东尼·布尔登（Anthony Bourdain），我为自己永远不会的人感到遗憾。但是，我记得当我得知他去世时在日本。几天前去了劳森（Lawson），就像在东京的7-11一样，我记得安东尼·布尔登（Anthony Bourdain）说，如果您在日本，您必须去劳森（Lawson），吃这个鸡蛋沙拉三明治。这是我的“像布尔登一样做的事情”清单。所以我去买了它，当然很美味，我记得拍了一张照片，就像是：“哦，我是安东尼·布尔登。”当然，两天后，我得到了安东尼·布尔登（Anthony Bourdain）的文字，我就像“什么？”我只是坐在那里，我只是被摧毁了。

有趣的是，您会因为听到一个从未见过的人的失落而感到沮丧，而在那一刻，“哇，这个家伙对我来说意义重大”，然后我意识到，他就是原因我在日本。他是我在这里的原因，他就是……您观看表演的原因，您会看到只能去叙利亚，土耳其，甚至是美国的部分地区，您永远不会想到的那部分。我就像“哇，他是我在这里的原因，他就是我去这家便利店买鸡蛋沙拉的原因。”我的意思是，他是我们这么多人拥有护照的原因，这是巨大的损失。但是我认为要尊重他，就是要继续前进，继续旅行。yabo电竞投注

I remember what I thought the day I heard the news. That even the seemingly strongest of us can't find a path to vulnerability. And that I believe our industry, and the birth of our industry, and thus the culture of our industry, play a huge role in that. That vulnerability equals weakness, and that couldn't be more than the truth. Vulnerability is strength. And certainly my heart broke for that day because I know there were thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of people that think and feel similarly, alone and unable to speak, and share. Both because it's incredibly difficult thing as a person but also because we don't champion it as peers and colleagues and leaders, and we need to.

I'm going to tear up as I say this. So, I think this is the one. I didn't know ... I'm always quick to say this because you and I know, we were talking the other day, I got interviewed in some prominent places about him. But I didn't know Tony that well, as with many people, more than I realized until he was gone. He was nice to so many people, I don't know how he did it. You probably have this also Kat. As I've gotten more known I hear from a lot of people who want advice and I try to give it to everybody.

我什至无法想象他的收件箱是什么样的，但是当他去世时，每个人似乎都要求他的时间五分钟，我不知道他为自己留下了什么。因此，我在一个共同的朋友的鼓励下问他是否会给我采访。对于我的博客来说，这一定是两千...也许十四。我有一个博客。我仍然有它，但它被忽略了。五分钟后，他给我发了一封电子邮件：“绝对可能需要一段时间来安排时间，但我正在复制劳里·伍尔弗（Laurie Woolerver），”正如大多数人现在知道的那样，他是他的助手。我们预约谈话，在一周的早些时电子邮件或电话...我认为这是一封电子邮件...这是来自劳里（Laurie）...我想，“哦，这是取消。”

劳里对我说，或者给我写信：“托尼需要看电影Chef," the Jon Favreau movie, which in passing I would say is actually a movie about middle age man's effort to master Twitter ... but that's another story. And Tony was friendly with Roy Choi who had consulted on the thing, he needs to watch it. They're sending over a screening copy, he's going to watch it a Zero Point Zero, which is the production company that did his shows ... he thought you might like to join him. Okay, so, this for me is like, a tennis fan being asked to come watch a practice alone with Andre Agassi, or Roger Federer or whatever.

“然后你们两个可以在午餐时进行面试。”

So I go over there, it was me, Tony, and Helen Cho who did the social media there, that was it. We watched this movie together and I made us a reservation for lunch at The Breslin, which was nearby. And we walked over there, we sit down, it's maybe like one in the afternoon. I know he was going to China, I think it was, the next day for the show. So we sit down, and he says ... I say, "How much time do you have"? And he looks at me and he goes, "You're my last appointment of the day."

And we interviewed for about two hours, we sat and gossiped for about an hour, he gave me ... so I had seen him in San Francisco, not him I was with Jeremiah Tower in San Francisco at Zuni Café and they were filming a sizzle reel, or a like a little sales reel, for what became最后的宏伟which Tony was the executive producer of, and I asked him in the interview, "Did you, I was in San Francisco, and I was with Jeremiah, and they were filming a sizzle reel, whatever happened with that?"

他说：“好吧，我们正在拍这部电影最后的宏伟，这将要走 - 我不知道他们是否有头衔，我们正在制作有关耶利米的电影，这将使节日巡回演出，然后将在CNN上。”

And I said "Oh, is that announced?"

“No".

I said, "Can I announce it?"

“当然。”就这样，“当然。”

And then we were talking a little more and he mentions ... we talked about Shep Gordon, who was like an unofficial agent, he was a music figure, there was a movie about him calledSupermensch。我说：“我听说你也是在和shep Gordon一起做某事吗？”。他说：“是的，你知道我看过那部电影，我走近了谢普，他将为我们写回忆录。”

And I said, "Is that out there?"

“不。”

我说：“我可以提到吗？”。

“Yep”.

And then he tells me, honestly I don't know if he ever did this, but he was going to do a sequel to得到吉罗，漫画与另一位艺术家，但同一位合作者乔尔·罗斯（Joel Rose），他再次说：“你可以拥有那个”。

So my little blog, that at the time, probably had like, 200 subscribers, I'm not even kidding ... I wrote an interview and all of a sudden there were like 800 word write-ups on食者, quoting from my thing ... now, everything about that interaction from inviting me to join him to watch the movie to giving me that much time, to giving me that news, he knew full well, having been a struggling writer at one point, what all that meant for me. Personally, I think, definitely professionally. And what it would mean for my stock, you know?

那是我的托尼·布尔登（Tony Bourdain）的记忆。我的意思是，对我来说，只是...我仍然不敢相信这个故事，你知道吗？因为我们不是好朋友。我会问他一个...每年一次，也许我会给他写笔记，然后说：“太好了”或“谢谢您的支持”，您知道，他会发推文我的东西。那是我们的关系。除了那顿午餐，我从来没有和托尼一起吃饭，我没有和托尼一起喝酒，我没有和他有这种关系。我的意思是我会喜欢它，我认为这是因为我无法超越他的身份。我知道与他共度时光的作家，我认为那是我自己的不安全感，我认为如果我问你知道，他可能会做这些事情吗？但是我周围太怪异了。老实说，我无法应付。

I had the honor and total pleasure of being on没有预订几年前，安东尼来到我们的餐厅，正在采访我们关于城市中最喜欢的东西。在某一时刻，我对城市中的另一个财产，他们如何卖光了，他们没有以前的灵魂说了一些负面的话。作为一个独立的餐厅家伙，我可能有点偏向独立景点。我立刻停了下来，我当时想，哦，天哪，我不能在媒体上说些负面的...

和安东尼的挽着我,like, no, no, no, no, no, your voice matters. He was like, don't follow the rules all the time, say the thing that's on your heart. He was like, we're going to do this again, you guys. Yes, trash that place. He wasn't trying to be negative about it, but he wanted to make me care less about the rules and more about having a voice. And I loved that.

我也很喜欢这样一个事实，在您不知不觉中，他正在跑进厨房并给所有厨师一个拥抱，他知道他是那些家伙的英雄，并且他拥有了。他在握手的手，他已经握了……那年他带着一本漫画书出来。

Yeah, and so a couple of the guys had comic books and he was signing ... He was ... for being such a big deal and such an icon in our industry and a guy that paved the way for so much, he was a down-to-earth cook at heart. And he was not one inch above any of the cooks in that kitchen, and came down to their level, and talked face-to-face to us, to everyone.

是的，有时候您会遇到电视人员，也许他们让您失望了一点，天哪，他肯定没有。

I got a phone call from him very early in his career. We barely knew each other, but he said I have this TV thing and can you come down to a place called西伯利亚？它是在地铁深处，我认为第48或第49，第50位是其中一条街道。我带来了一大堆寿司，然后他拍摄了它，这很奇怪。就像我和他不亲密一样。他真的不认识我，但是当该计划播出时，就像我邀请我的朋友们一起带食物。亚搏电竞就像我们像好友多年一样。从那一刻开始，无论何时我们都会见到彼此或聚在一起，就像在像我们一样离开的地方，真正成为朋友。

He went from the ultimate outsider to much more of an insider. I think that hurt him. I think that he didn't want to be like that, but how can you not want to be friends with Jose Andres and Eric Ripert and everybody else. Very conflicted. To this day, I can't figure it out, but … He was a good guy though.

我不称他为托尼，因为我个人不认识他。但是我的一个布尔登遇到了我04年搬到纽约市的时候...你知道，我是一名厨师。实际上，当一个家伙递给我时，我是北卡罗来纳州的准备厨师厨房机密。这是在2001年。他说：“您需要阅读这篇文章。”他拥有书中庆祝的所有餐厅厨师的勇敢。这本书帮助改变了我的生活，因为它允许我在烹饪和写作之间在这种限制区域中的空间中进行操作。您知道，并不是说我可以像安东尼那样写，而是允许我搬到纽约市，辞去报纸记者的工作，并试图成为厨师。

因此，我以一种非常强烈的拳头方式试图告诉布尔丹。因此，我在村里的酒吧里，我问酒保他在喝什么。他正在喝比尔森·乌尔奎尔（Pilsner Urquell）。所以我给他买了一个，我自己有一点液体勇气，我放弃了他，我给了他啤酒。然后他看着我，他用手把我甩开了。而且你知道。当时我想，你知道吗？我可能已经做了同样的事情。他刚刚上书名声，刚刚开始电视，已经厌倦了公众的崇拜。

But I think for me, I think about it. The other day, my five year old, Smith, was watching cartoons. I came back downstairs, and she immediately turned the TV off like she was in trouble. I said, "What were you watching?" And she said, "I was watching your hero." I said, "What do you mean?" And she said, "The guy that travels all over the place. I don't know where he was, but that's your hero, right?"

And it really touched me, because when I had kids, I watched... You know. I was much more home bound than I am now. I wasn't traveling. I wasn't going to places, because we needed to be home to take care of the kids. We watched Bourdain traveling, and what that taught me was the value of curiosity, and the value of empathy, and the value of what you learn when you're on the road. And the fact that my kid had heard me say at one point, or heard somebody else say that he was a hero, that was cool.

我只见过他一次，那是在过去。所以，更多...好吧。我有两个。因此，首先是安东尼来到旧金山，他和A一起用餐...他和一群朋友在一起。他是我所有厨师朋友的朋友。因此，克里斯·科斯蒂诺（Chris Cosentino）和劳伦斯·乔塞尔（Laurence Jossel）和拉维·卡普尔（Ravi Kapoor），实际上只是这个伟大的团队。他们出去了，他们有寿司，我听到那天晚上有寿司的故事多年。关于他们喝了多少，他们吃了多少，他们有多少乐趣。只是，那是安东尼。

第二部分是，安东尼的电视节目，他们俩都是我将行业与自己的孩子联系起来的一种方式。我的孩子和我会一起观看节目，我们有了这种出色的观看方式。因此，从某个角度来看，我儿子现在是成年人。他今年22岁。安东尼·布尔登（Anthony Bourdain）去世时，他在布鲁克林。安东尼（Anthony）过去时，他出去买了……我不知道他甚至在哪里找到它，但是他找到了一张cd of，他把它带到了莱斯·哈雷斯（Les Halles），并将其放在纪念馆上。他认为那是正确的纪念馆。我已经通过电视节目与安东尼·布尔登（Anthony Bourdain）联系了我的孩子，他感到有必要表现出尊重，表明他是多么绝对的普遍性，以及他对我们所有人作为人类的指导。

Bourdain broke new ground for us in the food industry and in the hospitality industry. He crossed over, and went beyond the margins of what many of us were led to believe our roles were in today's culture. I think that was a tremendous inspiration. While doing it, while breaking the mold, he was still able to be himself and be true to himself. He's more than an inspiration for the culinary world. He truly did what he did well enough that he was uncensored and totally authentic. If we can all get there, it'll be an amazing feat.

我认为酒店业中的任何人都可以尊重安东尼·布尔登（Anthony Bourdain）和他剩下的遗产是真正看自己的房子里，看着自己的厨房里，看着房子的前面，看看谁在挣扎，谁需要帮助，只需伸出手，愿意为某人提供服务，让他们知道这是一个安全的空间。他们可以来找你。他们并不孤单，没有人孤单。我认为有时候我们在行业中感到非常孤立，只是知道一个人在乎可能对某人有所不同。

他在写作和电视上分享了很多自己。我认为这是这样，人们开始像世界上最有趣的人一样称呼他。他本人会说：“我在世界上做得最好，我的生活很棒。”我想，我想，而且我知道有一种像你说的那样：“如果这个与这个生命和这个神奇的故事没有发现值得生活的人，那么世界值得呆在那里，那是什么我？”

我想我只想让人们有点思考，只是知道他是一个有才华的表演者和有天赋的讲故事的人，而且有些事情不是很好。他是一个有缺陷的人。他在某些方面也对自己的挣扎非常透明，所以只是要记住他是一个充分的人，只是因为您有一个非常成功的电视节目和1000万个Twitter关注者或其他任何事情，如果还有其他事情从根本上讲，这是缺乏的，如果那里缺乏结构，那就没关系了。

我不知道。我并不是那么雄辩地总结这一点，而是它不仅仅是表面魅力和光彩。他像其他任何人一样是一个有缺陷的人。