Trying and Failing to Make a Great New York Bagel Is My Pandemic Hobby
这是美国最美国的故事：摆脱旧国家的压迫状况，从市区的肮脏和冲突一直到郊区。很快，您已经从局外人变成了美国的成功故事。大约几年后，经过数十年的同化，您的祖先是成功的，但几乎无法识别，这些移民穿过埃利斯岛（Ellis Island）的移民，带有岩石般的外观和柔软的中间，只有一点点甜蜜。它们更大，穿着不同，他们自己涂抹了一种叫做奶油奶酪的东西。
That's百吉饼的故事in under a hundred words. Also, my family's story — if you omit the spreading cream cheese all over myself part. You don't have to go far on the Internet to read about its origins in Poland or how Harry Lender figured out how to bring them to the masses; nor do you have to wait long for the next argument over what part of the country makes them better.
事实是，我发现百吉饼的话语非常愚蠢。我不在乎你要去哪里得到百吉饼；只要它们很好，它们就可以来自布鲁克林的格林伯格，洛杉矶的酵母男孩，蒙特利尔的圣维维特尔，在佛蒙特州伯灵顿的迈尔（Myer's）打电话给您的母亲。或者anywhere else on the map。我只希望他们以您在美国待多久的移民带来的任何食物的尊重。亚搏电竞由于我来自来自波兰的一系列喜欢百吉饼的犹太人，所以我觉得我可以问很多。然而，沿着线条，Subpar甚至坏百吉饼变得司空见惯。
It doesn't matter what city you're in, whether it has a style of bagel all its own or not; the truth is that you're more likely to get a bad bagel these days than a good one—a softball-sized lump of boiled dough that may not even have a hole in it. And that, more than anything, offends me.
"Old-world bagels were smaller and thinner," Leah Koening, author ofThe Jewish Cookbook,指出。“旧百吉饼更像是3或4盎司的面团，当今的许多百吉饼通常是6盎司+怪物。”原因：贷方最终在整个美国的冰柜中倒入。百吉饼应该是新鲜的，而不是冷冻的。但这就是一些主要城市以外的美国人认识他们的方式，以及他们如何对平庸的百吉饼感到满意。我想摆脱这一点。在大流行期间，我开始尝试自己制作。我知道这听起来像是另一个试图消除焦虑的人，但是请相信我：我只是出于恶意而进行了这个任务。我的意思是，这个世界上发生了各种各样的可怕事情，使我真的很生气，但是我仍然可以在灵魂中找到它，以使百吉饼的对待如何感到沮丧。
For my quest, I was looking to the past, to a description of the kinds of bagels you could find in New York City throughout the first-half of the 20th century. If I was going to start making bagels, I wanted to get as old-school as possible without it turning into美国泡菜2：电力百吉饼。I used Koenig's measurements, and visualized the kinds of bagels made by members of Bagel Bakers Local 338 as described in another 2003时代article, thisone lamenting the size of NYC bagels:
"They were made entirely by hand, of high-gluten flour, water, yeast, salt and malt syrup, mixed together in a hopper. Rollers would then take two-inch strips of dough and shape them. A designated bagel boiler would boil the bagels in an industrial kettle for less than a minute, which gave the bagel its tight skin and eventual shine. Finally, a third bagel man would put the bagels on thick redwood slats covered with burlap and place them in a brick or stone-lined oven."
我可以得到的成分，但是由于我住在布鲁克林的一间公寓，工业水壶可能不会发生。一个大锅必须做。至于砖块或石衬里的烤箱，我对中西部爸爸很有脚步，并与吸烟者一起玩。从某些人那里汲取灵感YouTube videos, I transformed the little smoker into an oven, placing a pizza stone atop a couple of bricks. It wasn't perfect, but I assume I was working with more than my ancestors in the shtetl had.
至于食谱，我有少数世纪中期的犹太食谱，但没有一个真正提供我想要的东西。我发现的最接近的是从1994年开始的基本古老的互联网集团发布。真实，诚实，犹太人（下东区）纯粹的百吉饼。" I found the description interesting enough to try it, but noted the inclusion of honey in the recipe, something that reminded me of Montreal bagels. At the end of the day that didn't matter, because regional food superiority is silly, and the bagel doesn't come from Delancey Street or Mile End or Silver Lake; it comes from Eastern European Jews. That's what my little quest is really about.Trying to make a great bagel对于我自己的家人的来源。我之所以喜欢百吉饼，是因为它们是美味的碳水化合物炸弹，但我也喜欢它们，因为我可以在吃东西时可以回到东西。
So I baked my first batch, all by hand. Actually, Itried要烘烤我的第一批，但没有正确的时机 - 对酵母，煮沸水，使火很热。第一批最终变成了大面包。我的妻子甚至不会尝试。他们与百吉饼不同。所有的碳水化合物在我眼中都很棒，但是我的目标是百吉饼，所以我深吸了一口气，重新开始了整个事情。
I wish I could say the second round of bagels were good. The outside didn't have the little bit of hardness I wanted, and the dough inside had a tangy flavor I really didn't like. I'm not a baker, I've never claimed to be. If anything, my bagels haveneshama，希伯来语的灵魂。而且，如果我说实话，那足以让我开始。临时燃木烤箱实际上效果很好。内部还不错，但是外面没有我想要的那种紧缩或闪耀。
现在，有几批，我仍然不会为除我自己以外的任何人服务。我很好吃我不太好的百吉饼，还有一些奶油奶酪，一两片烤肉或一些融化的黄油和一些番茄片。但是我发现，从纽约市和蒙特利尔和洛杉矶以及其他任何地方，我都会发现一个很棒的小圆圈，然后在中间烤面团，然后在中间烤面团，这将有所帮助，这将有所帮助我实现了建立目标myperfect bagel.